24v kdp
 

i know personally about the 12v and the killer dowel pin, i have seen the kits for 24v to tab the dowel, just wondering if anybody has had this happen or know of it happening. a buddys truck has a bad oil leak coming from the front of the engine, have not looked for it really hard yet, but tis weekend i was looking at it and ran my finger down the front gear housing and felt what seems to be a crack right in the area that mine had busted. he is hopeing it is just a casting make in the coverm just trying to get some info on it. plan on cleaning it up real well this week and try to find the leak. any info will be much appreciated.

Happens all the time on 99-01 trucks. I tabbed mine some time back and it wasn't being held in by anything but luck. If you do a search on KDP in this section you will come up with all kinds of horror stories.

It's an issue all the way through '02.

Dave

Never heard of 2002 having problems with it...

Another member on another forum pulled his 01 apart and found out his was already a updated gear case with necked down hole. So I know somewhere in 2001 the upadte was started. (At least I thought...)

The update was started in 98.5 but it's completely hit and miss on what trucks got the new covers and what trucks didn't.

So if i have no oil leaks, what other signs are there to look for ?

I so don't want to have to pull my truck apart,

There is no way of knowing until it's to late except to pull the cover off and look at it. It's really not as hard as it looks and for the peace of mind, second to the fuel pressure gauge is probably one of the most important things you will do to this truck. If it's never been off your due for a new seal in there anyway.

Pull the belt, pull the fan and pull the cover, that's all there is to it.

Because I know things.....

Attachment 53167

This is my dad's '02 that he refused to allow me to inspect because he heard all the case issues were fixed no later than '01.

Dave

Okay, so i'm pretty sure the info is every where, but i'm an idiot,

If i pull all these things off, what am i actually looking for ? something loose ? something broken ? cracked(s) ?

I guess i'll check this out, cause i'm planning on a nice road trip, and i don't want any thing to happen !

You need a new front seal, a tab and a tube of UltraBlack.

The onlt way to tell if you need the tab is to pull the cover. Upon doing so, the KDP will either be flat in that portion of the case or it will have a raised step. If it has the step, nothing needs to be done as you have he new case. If it's the older case, you just pull the bolt ans drop the washer in over that flat spot. If the pin has moved out, just tap it back in flush.

Reassemble and you are good.

My buddy just picked up an '01 that we will be inspecting Saturday. I told hime to not drive it until then. Yes, I am that concerned on every truck.

We tell every one of our shop customers with trucks through '02 to check this ASAP. If not by us, by someone or themselves. All we can do is pass the info along.

Dave

Here's all the info you need for this. https://www.dieselbombers.com/5-9l-2...fix-guide.html

well i have a 12v that the dowl came out on. it caught the cam gear and found it way throw the housing the fix cost me about 1700 parts and labor and i was lucky it didnt jam between the gears. but thanks for the info gonna head to his house and do a lil checking

Really ?

Couldn't someone with a little bit of skill just gather those items and do it for like 30 $ ?

Which seals are those ? And all i need is a little piece of sheet metal cut into a little egg like shape right ?

Who knows, i'm to poor to buy things any more, all i want is the " Home made " setups

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" Dieselnerd: I bought a bolt that was about 1/4" longer and used high strength Loctite on the bolt. I made the tab out of a 2" fender washer with a 1/4" hole, had to use a rat tail file to enlarge it slightly to fit the metric bolt. I used a hacksaw to cut the tab to size. I used a new gasket and seal on the cover. I used Permatex spray on both sides of the gasket. The seal was a real pain like Rebel said. Kept going in crooked. I finally bolted the damper back over the seal tool that came with the seal and pressed it in that way. That method pushes it almost all the way in to where it should be. The cover is bolted on but not tightened down. You put the seal installer into the cover to center the hole in the cover over the crank and then tighten the bolts. The service manual is very specific about this. Then you slip a plastic sleeve into the seal to keep it from deforming as it slips over the crankshaft end. You tap the seal with the installer to get it started and then pull out the sleeve. "

Found this on another site, i like it !

The tab is $1 at Cummins. I will let them make it instead of trying to save .24 cents and an hour of time. The seal comes from Cummins as well and is around $40 depending on your pricing. The seal installer comes in the seal and is a breeze to install. I have never had to use the damper or anything special to get the seal on. And you'll need a little locktite and some UltraBlack. Done.

It's easy to over think this stuff. BTW, the stock bolt works just fine with the Cummins tab.

Dave

just left his house he blew the head gasket in the very front, from what it looked like after we cleaned it up. so its getting pulled this weekend and studded and o ringed. And i am gonna tap it while we are waiting on the head to get done

The seal and tab kit from TNT are like $20. It was worth that to me just so that after I had the truck apart I wasn't sittin there tryin to make a tab. It was ready to put back together within minutes, no questions asked.

I would suggest that with the liquid gasket on the cover you let it set for a while to get tacky before you put the cover back into place on the truck. For me anyway it took some movin around to get the cover in the right spot and i jacked up the gasket seal some doin it. If it would have hardened up little first I would have had the problem.

Quick question, semi-hijack:

My instructions from TST say to put the crank seal in with some red threadlocker on the side that goes against the metal front gear cover.
I've read elsewhere that the seal should be installed dry.
Which one is it?

I won't claim to be right but I didn't use anything on the seal. Never even heard of usin threadlock on a seal myself.

seal goes in dry and can be tricky to get it in there.

It's installed dry,it has I film of Teflon on the inside of the seal,and if the cranks not clean you ruin the seal.

And don't bother trying to put the cover back on without a new seal,it will leak.

Good to know, thanks guys!

the only reason that would be is to help it go on, thread lock is actually a lubricant until you remove air then it helps holding things there. i have done his before on different kind of seals.

Stamped right on the seal "Install dry".

No need for sealer or thread lockers. The coating on the bearing shell seals as it's installed.

Dave