amount of paint required
 

how many quarts of paint would be required to repaint my hole truck one color. its an extended can 8ft bed 1993. here is the color i will be doing

Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint

sprays on to look like this color

85 crew cab cummins build... - Page 4 - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums

I was just fixin to post the samething except askin for a reg cab long bed. The truck up above in my avatar pic i'm going to repaint it the Black Crystal Pearlcoat of the new trucks from like 07 to now I've had 2 that color and love it i think it would look pretty sick! All the paint on the hood now is chipping off and the bed is starting, it was painted 2 year ago and it was a sh*tty job.

im going to be doing all the work on my own, but i will be doing everything the right way and taking my time and i figure about 2 weeks on prepping and one week for paint to make sure it is show room finish and the new black is a beautiful color cant wait to see it done! and i love blue and silver tu tone and cant wait to see the final product!!:tu:

it takes close to a gallon to paint a truck. (with a painter that knows what he is doing LOL)

amount of paint required
 

Lots o primer... Right type and color is just as important as the basecoat. Once you get a nice coat of primer down it shouldn't take more than a gallon you'll gain some volume when you reduce it. Gal of paint will really be more like gallon and a quart or so sprayable. I think my shortbed 84 had two coats with no more than a quart left over.


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It depends on if you use a brush or roller.(sorry I just couldn't let that one slip by):rocking:Rocky

lol very funny 1arock. so i should order the paint by gallon and how many courts of primer?

You going with base coat clear, acrylic, urethane:humm:? Color may depend also:pca1:

amount of paint required
 

All depends on how flat you want your body. Easiest way to tell if you have a low or high spot is to lightly prime the truck and then sand it off. Depending where the color stays is where you may want to glaze or redo your filler for the smoothest body line possible. Doing it this way you can go thru a lot of primer lol, but also a good thing is you can always smooth the primer out with a fine sand paper and have the base coat lay down like glass. Nothing worse than wet sanding out the clear and you spot afew gouges from low grit sand paper where the metallic paint highlights it. Get a gallon of primer, then half gallon afterwards if you use it all up. Primer isn't too expensive


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I'm painting my truck all myself too, but i've never painted a truck before, i've painted stock trailers, many metal..... Things and a smoker me and my buddy built in high school in FFA that won many shows including the ok state fair. I can paint, i just have no clue at all on primer, filler, sanding and wet sanding.

Could someone tell me what the order is of what you do? I know sand prime sand paint and clear but like the other stuff. And like a lil how to and tips?

Thanks I'll appriciate any help!

im using acreylic and doing a base coat clear coat. im using the technique of priming and sanding for low spots and high spots. i will be doing it right and having it come out mint. no flasws, no runs, no low/high spots, no nothing. this is the first time i am paint a truck but i have painted many other things and im very good at it and also i like doing things like this. on another note i will be having a guide from a man that owns a body shop and is the painter!! :tu: :tu: :tu: :tu:

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Starfire Acrylic Enamel Auto Paint - Sapphire Blue Metallic - 1 Gallon: Automotive Paint, Auto Paint, Car Paint



this is the color

it wil probably take close to 1-1.5 gallon MIXED and that would be 2-3 quarts of base. most base coats are mixed 1:1 ratio with reducer. to be on the safe side i would get 1 gallon and that will mix to 2 gallon. that way if you ever need it to touch up you will have the exact paint. no 2 mixes are going to be EXACTLY the same. also you will use more paint if doing door jams and inside the bed etc.

most clear coats are mixed 4:2:1 4 part clear, 2 parts reducer and 1 part hardener. make sure to get the correct reducer for the temperature / humidity. MOST of the time you can get away with a Medium reducer, but if it is COLD you might want to look into the fast, and if it is HOT you might want to look into the slow.

base/clear is WAY more forgiving than a single stage as you can run the clear and rake and sand and buff the run out. on a single stage, if it is a solid color then you can rake sand and buff a run away but if it is a metallic or a pearl you have to go back to square one.

All this info is right on the button, i'm shure Ben paints so i would go with his numbers.

Dar

sorry, had to fix the dang smiley face that automatically got put in there somehow....

ya i've painted my fair share of stuff over the past few years.



EDIT ---- forgot to address the clear. 1 gallon should do it as it will reduce out to about 1.75 gallon. depending on the area, application method (HVLP or suction gun) that should do a truck with 2-3 good coats of clear. what I like to do on something i want to look FLAT and smooth, take some good 2K primer, spray it, let it dry, block it and make sure it is good and flat, then do the base coat. i normally do 5-7 coats or until i have about a pint of paint left over in case i have to do some touchup. let the base "dry" it will take about 30 minutes in normal weather, faster in hot weather and slower in cold or humid weather, then start applying the clear. i will apply 1 gallon and then let it cure. turn the heat up in the booth and leave the lights on for 12-24 hours and then roll outside to allow the natural UV rays to help out. give it atleast 48 hours to completely harden then you can rake out any runs etc. then take and wetsand with 1000 grit the whole vehicle with a block, making sure that the clear is flat and is not sanded through to the base coat. then after washing the vehicle, drying it and inspecting to make sure that all the clear has been sanded and there isn't any shiney places it goes back into the booth and gets atleast 1/2 a gallon more clear. repeat the drying process, then after that wetsand with a block, using 1500-2000 and then buff to a show winning shine.

but for a beater you can just prime, sand, base, clear and roll with it. *MOST* of the time that looks better than a factory paintjob done by a robot....