Wishing I never touched the pump
 

I changed the governor spring last night. Took the pump top off did the swap. While I was in it I turned up the power screw about two turns.

I got it all back together and it ran and idles fine for about 10 miles. I took it out on a test run all was good until 3000 rpm in fourth. The truck died like I had turned it off. So I dragged it home.

It spins over fine good compression. I cracked the injector line to bleed it. Some fuel came out but not a lot. I then took the pump top off. All looked fine inside. Next up I pulled the fuel solenoid. Tip is a little cracked up but not much. I tried the manual lever on the lift pump. It pumped fine.


I took it apart again. This time I removed the plunger from the shutdown solenoid.

I checked where the lever connects to the control collar it moves freely and is connected.

I buttoned it all up and still nothing.

I had the injector nuts loose and very little fuel comes out of the lines. Two of them had no fuel at all.

Now i am wondering if a piece of debris has lodged in the distributor plunger and is interrupting the flow.

Any Ideas?

Wishing I never touched the pump
 

There's your problem right there. If anything you need to back the power screw "out" when you have the top off. Probably broke the governor lever putting it back together.

Well during reassembly I had the screw completely out. Then screwed it in once the top was on. The two turns is approx its about where the bad threads are about to enter the housing.

Wishing I never touched the pump
 

Oh. You didn't mention that before.

What about your lift pump?

The manual lever pumps fuel. It's not leaking and the IP was full of fuel everytime I opened it up. But I don't know for sure it's ok.

I sprayed some either into the turbo and the motor fires up for a bit.

If you indexed the throttle wrong it would cause it to not run, mine didnt want to start and hardly idled and 80% less power right after i did mine, had me worried but what it was the pin that rides on the fuel pin in the afc got stuck all the way in. I dunno just try to make sure its all back in right

Wishing I never touched the pump
 

Hold it to the floor and try to start it. You have to have the throttle index pretty far off for it not to run WOT. At the same time if your full power screw is backed too far out it won't run either. How do you figure the full power screw is "two turns" past factory setting? Idk about you but I forgot where "factory" was a LONG time ago. Even then when the screw is backed out entirely for reassembly it's hard to recollect how many "turns" you made with the Screw driver, or even how many "bites" you got on it with the pliers. best way to figure out if you got the throttle index wrong is sound/tension. Remove the throttle lever and turn the shaft counterclockwise. You should be able to hear the spring/gov lever move. You'll also feel the tension of the spring, leave the shaft in this position. Have someone ready to trip the manual shut off. Truck should start and idle pretty high. If it will not run, then try turning your full power screw in.


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Didn't you post this on the cummins forum?

ya but he had to post it here to get some some worth a dam help instead of the nipple twisting that goes on there lol

back to my hole I go............

Wow wow wow calm her down a gear there buddy. He got pretty much the same info there as here.

Yes posted this on multiple forums.

I dropped off the pump on monday at a shop in town. I talked to them on wednesday and they gave me the bad news. Pump was seized and full of metal filings. So they are building me a new one.

Ouch....

That's never nice to see. You gonna get a stock rebuild or get a gov spring n fuel pin installed?

Well it will be "stock" with a M&H M2 pin, timing spacer and 4200 RPM spring.

Don't you think your going a little overkill on the RPM's? Just so you know anything over 3600RPM's on a cummins you need #60 valve springs or your valves will start to float.

I put a lot of thought into that.

I choose the 4200 spring for a couple of reasons

I only wanted to go into the pump once. I figured buy going that high no mater what I did in the future I wouldn't have to change the spring again.

I have read in several sources that the VE will not fuel the motor much past the 3500 point. So really once you go past that 4200 or 10000 rpm spring whats it matter?

I have never had any problem over reving my gas engine trucks and they don't have a rev limiter. So I fell confident with the tach I won't wind this motor to the moon.

If I could have found a good reliable and proven way to defeat the rev limiter portion of the governor altogether I would have.

I'm really looking forward to the new pump. I was never impressed with the millage of the truck or the power. It seemed weaker than my last cummins.

I see you have done a lot of research well hope it all works out for you.

Me too.

LOL thats to funny never over rev'ed your gas engine. You have a lot to learn if you think a diesel is anything like a gas engine :argh: And if you think it won't fuel above 3500 you are WRONG

The governor spring "is" the rev limiter.

Wishing I never touched the pump
 

*insert sarcasm* gas... Diesel... It's all the same... It all rotates doesn't it? Hahaha. But at any rate, any engine is capable of turning itself inside out. You go above it's limits, it's not a question of if it'll fail but when. Do your homework and supporting mods and you greatly increase the probability of the truck staying together.


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I have this excellent mod called a tach. Works on any motor regardless of fuel type. Keep it under three grand and it's all good.

Good luck, I hope you don't ever break a driveshaft or u-joint.

I agree. I've never hit the fuel shut off in my truck even when i'm racing a buddy or doing donuts in the snow. It's called a throttle and a tach, and when you use them at the same time you get pretty good results

Feel for you !! Had the same thing happen to mine. The shop gave me about 5lbs of dead & broken parts back after the rebuild. I don't mess with the pump any more.... (but it goes like stink so I don't really have too :jump::jump: )

I'd be curious to the cost, mine was about $1300Cnd plus another $100 or so to have it timed after I reinstalled the pump.