newbie looking for help
 

i have a 91 dodge was told it was a candian truck when i bought it. i pull a horse trailer and my daily driver. all i want out of the truck is monster torque and it wouldnt be bad to be able to spin a wheel every now and then. any help would be great thanks tommy.

use the sticky's man, BUY gauges, then turn the pump up. You will either need to beef up the trans if it is auto, or get a bigger clutch, then if it isnt still powerful enough, get ahold of BBD Performance, and they will hook you up with some SDX. then hollar back at the us when you get caught up lol

ok i was wondering if i needed to start there. fixing to order a new exhaust. then turn the fuel up and get rid of my air box sound about right to yall? with just that little bit of upgrade you think i should already look into beefing up my auto trans? or is that little bit of upgrade going to do alot? thanks tommy

The intake and exhaust deffinetly wont hurt your tranny. Some pump mods can be done without harm to tranny. But first you are gonna want to get a pyrometer for sure then boost and tranny temp after. The big gain comes from the full power screw on the pump. Im not going to say much more cause you are gonna want to read up on all the pump adjustments so you are familiar and dont get confused.

ok thanks guys

You have an auto or a 5-speed? The great thing about teh 1st gen autos is they usually wont pass enough power to hurt themselves. :D

Get some gauges because you want to tow. Then work on air in air out, then some basic pump tuning, then injectors/turbo.

i have an auto with no overdrive

No kiddin'. It took 'em 20 years to figure out how to get a decent torque converter in an auto behind a Cummins.
That's why I'd recommend a torque converter and maybe some (slightly) taller tires. That way you won't hurt anything, it'll pull better and you'll have a good baseline to start making power mods.

well got my air box off today and found out my turbo had been changed from the factory one. it is a holset h1c is this an upgrade or just a replacement? its crazy the differance the air box being off makes. exhaust will be monday thanks for everyones help!!

They're all Holsets. The only difference in the 1st Gens is the non-I/C trucks had the baby H1c.

yes i know this but my holset has a holset tag not a cummins tag on the turbo. it is differant then the one on my buddys 90 250 his has a cummins tag.

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so i guess i still have a "stock" turbo even though it was changed??

Couldn't say for sure without actually seeing it, but probably so.

well got new exhaust today and i think i lost power??!! yesterday i was leaving black marks today im just have a little black smoke from exhaust??? time to turn the fuel to it i guess?? any suggestions on how much? all i can or half??

Those black marks probably = whatever was left of the clutches in your torque converter.

naw still got plenty of power will fly now 0-70 its quick just feels like it takes it till bout 10-15 mph to really get to full power shifts good no slipping not shifting hard

i'd rather have her zooming than burning up tires. Holset made the turbos for cummins, my stock h1c on my 93' says holset too. I believe cummings bought them out. Get the guages, I bought a pyro and it changed my driving habits. I pull a horse trailer too. I would install the 3200 gov. spring before turning up the pump. These motors start to defuel at around 55 mph I think, the springs gives you a little more fuel on the top end. You could also turn your stock fuel pin to the deepest setting too.

also get rid of some extra weight and when your in the diaphram pull out the little nylon washer it will allow the pin to move up and down the entire pin instead of limiting the pin basicly no washer= full boost put it in a bag and in your glove box incase you ever want it back to stock.

Up, Down, In & Out, Fuel Flowing All Around...
 

Full boost occurs at the bottom of the pin travel. Removing the washer can actually limit full fuel if your boost level and spring tension combine in undesireable ways. Upward travel (limited by the washer you speak of) controls low boost fuel.

The trick to fuel cone tuning is to track the guide pin path and make small adjustments accordingly. The pumps can have different springs and along with different fuel cone profiles will give wildly different results depending on how they are set up.

got pyro and boost gauge on the way be here friday hope to have them on friday not sure how hard they are to install. thinks for all yalls help but all this pin and screws stuff is above my skill level.

ok gauges are in. just got done reading the fuel pump sticky and i dont know what i need to do?? should i start here Low manifold pressure (boost) fuel delivery adjustment.

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or should i do all the sticky says??

One Thing at A Time.
 

I haven't looked at that stickey lately, but that sounds like the smoke screw. Just FYI, the smoke screw and starwheel adjustments are pretty much useless once you turn up the full power screw or install bigger injectors. I would view them as nothing more than distractions when it comes to real power mods.

I'd start by turning the cone to the deep profile and go from there.

ok ive read and reread the turn up the fuel sticky and by what i can figure i need to turn the full power screw 1-2 turns then adjust the smoke screw to get less smoke at low rpms? im i in the ball park here?

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also got gauges in today putting out 22 max boost at bout 55-60 mph pyro gauge reads 1000 thats putting to the floor. just riding down the road bout 5 boost and 700-800 on pyro are these good for a stock truck?

Pretty much. My smoke screw is turned all the way out, i.e. flush with the top cover - not doing anything. Did you turn the cone so the guide pin rides on the deepest part?

These things are fun to play with once you figure them out. :choochoo:

still trying to figure out where the cone is located. looking in sticky at pics but i cant put what ur saying and what there saying together.

is it on top of pump it has 4 standerd head screws take that plate off and it is in there with the star wheel??

Yup. Carefully pull the boost line banjo bolt from the back of the AFC cover, taking care to not loose the two little copper washers. Pull the top of the AFC off, lift the diaphragm, and rotate the pin so that the most offset portion of the cone is toward the front of the truck. (so that the little plunger deep inside the pump will protrude into the fuel cone bore the most.) Re-assemble. Carefully torque the bango bolt, its thin and can be broken if over torqued.

banjo bolt?? where is that??

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it seems i need my turbo to spool up faster i think?? i need more bottom end pull seems to take my truck just a little to get started

On the back of the AFC cover. Its the very top part of your injection pump. There is a signal line that comes off your intake manifold and goes into the top of your pump. The bolt that goes into the top of the pump, through that signal line, is the bolt I'm referencing.

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Maybe this will help.

fuel pin location and modification - Dodge Cummins Diesel Forum

ok i got it now its all under that cap with the 4 screws. no problem. instead of the grinding is this where the denny-t pin comes in? also 1 last thing the full power screw on back of pump should i turn it to? the one that has the cap and lock nut on it? thanks bgreen you have been a great help!!

yup, thats where the denny t pin goes.

Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump

http://issuu.com/rswords/docs/bosch_ve_manual

one more

https://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-...mp-videos.html

ok thanks again you have been a big help