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-   -   new here, new truck, need help (https://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-generation-dodge-cummins-89-93/79344-new-here-new-truck-need-help.html)

sweetv8s10 07-17-2011 09:11 PM

I think someone forgot to put the clips in it!That sucks:dang:

1989w250 07-18-2011 01:27 AM

Thats a nice truck :tu:

alabamaram 07-19-2011 08:56 PM

11 Attachment(s)
ok, here is the update on getting the old u joint out:

Bought this item to help from harbor freight, basically a jumbo c-clamp:
closed:
Attachment 62862
opened:
Attachment 62863
about to be used:
Attachment 62864

Joint halfway off! Don't worry, you can't see it but there is a jack stand off-camera supporting the shaft.
Attachment 62865

All the way off:
Attachment 62866
Getting the C-catch off of this one was tricky. There was so much road crud I could hardly see it.

Now I am worried if my replacement matches.
Old part front:
Attachment 62867
old part back:
Attachment 62868

The new part is a precision 246, which is a 7260-type u-joint.
I think this is right because I measured ~1.07" on the bearing diameter, and 2.12" on the yoke inside flat part. The old part used the inside C-style catches, instead of the outside C= looking catches. I am just not that sure it is the right part still.
Here is the new u-joint in box:
Attachment 62869

new part front:
Attachment 62870
new part back:
Attachment 62871

And there is a kinda sad side-note, the old part that busted is a precision, i went and bought a new part, and it happens to be precision too. I probably should have bought spicer.

Gonna recheck measurements again and then put the new one on tomorrow. The new part is sitting in my freezer for now.

(just posted today, wrote last night, must have not hit submit last night!)

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

update, just got new the ujoint installed:
Attachment 62872

drove it around, and it ran great! :jump:

NadirPoint 07-19-2011 09:13 PM

Yep, I forgot they used a 7260 on the front shaft. If you ever lift it, upgrade the front shaft to some bigger joints. That 7260 is no match for the D60 and a 5.9 Cummins if it ever gets traction under load. I went with a 1350:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_159.jpg

alabamaram 07-19-2011 09:55 PM


Originally Posted by NadirPoint (Post 776123)
Yep, I forgot they used a 7260 on the front shaft. If you ever lift it, upgrade the front shaft to some bigger joints. That 7260 is no match for the D60 and a 5.9 Cummins if it ever gets traction under load. I went with a 1350:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_159.jpg

Yeah, its a small joint for such a big truck. I should look into upgrading it.

More stuff to do:
- fix the Air conditioning
- fix the broken parking brake cable
- refill all fluids (did oil but still got radiator, getrag360, transfer case to do, grease all joints, i may not bother with the differentials because i heard you have to pull the cover off to drain).
- fix the speedo (I talked to the previous owner again and he said the plastic worm gear down in the transfer case is stripped), so that may be a pretty big job. Not to mention finding a replacement part.
- fix or add a working radio
- I still haven't done the killer dowel pin fix.

but for now its working!

NadirPoint 07-19-2011 10:01 PM

That Would Be a Bad Idea
 

Originally Posted by alabamaram (Post 776147)
...i may not bother with the differentials because i heard you have to pull the cover off to drain

They are expensive to repair and pulling the cover is almost too easy. At least check the fluid level and top up if needed. I would put that ahead of most other things on your list, for sure.

alabamaram 07-19-2011 10:07 PM


Originally Posted by NadirPoint (Post 776150)
They are expensive to repair and pulling the cover is almost too easy. At least check the fluid level and top up if needed. I would put that ahead of most other things on your list, for sure.

Hmm, maybe i should drain/refill the differentials. I am just mostly worried about getting it sealed back up good since from what I understand, there is no gasket. So you have to put a good seal bead all the way around, right?

NadirPoint 07-19-2011 10:11 PM

Use a thin bead of RTV, assemble finger tight and let cure overnight before snugging up and re-filling in the morning. Never a leak doing it this way, ever.

alabamaram 07-24-2011 08:06 PM

NadirPoint: what kind of grill guard is that you have on yours?

I am still trying to figure out my electrical problems. Radio only backlights, but doesn't work. Also, the cigarette lighter is dead. I am starting to think the run/accessory line off the ignition switch is not hot. Power windows and door locks do work. The blowers work, but the A/C doesn't. Next I am gonna try and measuring voltages at the fuse points.

Okay actually just went and tried this with a voltmeter at the fuse box. I noticed if i jiggled the key back, i would get run/accessory power. But my cigar lighter and radio still don't work. Looked at cigar fuse and it was blown. Radio fuse is good. So who knows whats up?

Other question: how do I know if i have a limited slip rear differential. In other words, do I need to add friction modifier? My build sheet says the following:
DRES Dana M70/267MM Rear Axle
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle

Thanks!

NadirPoint 07-25-2011 08:21 AM

You Figured It Out Yourself
 
Time for a new key switch:

Originally Posted by alabamaram (Post 777857)
I noticed if i jiggled the key back, i would get run/accessory power.

Yes to the Friction Modifier:

Originally Posted by alabamaram (Post 777857)
DSA Anti-Spin Differential Rear Axle

I've been using the Royal Purple MaxGear with FM already added, seems to work really well.

Sorry, but no idea where the brush guard came from, PO installed that before I bought it. :nope:


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