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So maybe you know I'm new to this world building my first truck ever.... Taking a cummins dodge 1993 turbo diesel the whole engine out of a dodge flat bed. Not sure were to find the shut off and where all the other sensors are. It has a bad ass getrag 5 spd on the back of it. So any suggestions to what I need to do. Im putting this into a 1971 chevy custom body short bed swamp bug truck. Any advice?

:humm:

what do you mean? the shut off is on the pump (1 wire) and thats about all she needs to run as far as other senors there is just a few plugs on her

There's plenty of wires on the engine, most are more trouble than they're worth. A decision to make is whether or not you want to try to adapt the Dodge's PCM. If you have a basic understanding of circuits, it's easier to bypass the ECM, unless you want to keep things automated. If you don't have a basic understanding of circuits, you're going to be confused no matter what you decided to do.

Only the shut-off solenoid wire is required to be connected to run, and that can be neglected if the shut-off solenoid is modified. To crank the engine you just need to give a crank signal to the starter relay.

The engine has an oil pressure sensor near the center of the fuel-side of the block; I don't know what kind of signal this is, probably just a 0-5 or 0-12 volt analog signal, probably not useful on your 71's gauge. It's better to use a mechanical gauge anyways.

The engine has a coolant temperature sensor on the fuel side of the back of the head; I assume this is another 0-5 or 0-12 volt analog signal, which you may or may not be able to use for a non-stock gauge. (Is this a switch and not the analog coolant sensor?)

The engine has a crank speed sensor on the front flywheel. You can get this to work with an aftermarket tachometer or you can use it to drive the 71's tach if it has one and you're good and lucky. The PCM wants to see this signal to regulate the alternator. You can bypass the PCM with an external regulator off an 89-91 Dodge Cummins truck, and then the crank signal won't have any effect on the alternator.

On top of the engine behind where the air horn comes into the head are two temperature switches; one controls the KSB (solenoid valve on the outside of the injection pump), one controls the grid heaters. Stock both are controlled by the ECM; you can put the KSB on a toggle switch and the grid heaters on a momentary contact switch to bypass these sensors and the ECM. In Boise you probably want to keep the grid heaters, and the KSB is a toy to play with.

I don't think that manuals have throttle position sensors on top of the injection pump? Or do they for cruise control? The TPS's on these trucks are pieces of crap, used for overdrive shift points on automatic transmissions and maybe cruise control. I don't know anything about cruise control on these. Automatic overdrive is best controlled with a toggle switch.

There's a fuel heater built into the top of the fuel filter. It's pretty rinky-dink and worthless. Again, maybe you'll see some benefit in Boise. Below the fuel filter is a water-in-fuel sensor that you can use in conjunction with the ECM or build your own circuit if you want to learn about comparators.

You're going to be running wires and building circuits, but only one circuit will keep the engine from running.