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-   -   Rear main leakage (https://www.dieselbombers.com/1st-generation-dodge-cummins-89-93/50419-rear-main-leakage.html)

Billy D 05-09-2010 08:27 AM

Rear main leakage
 
My rear main on Goldie startin to drip. I tight'n the pan, but it was tight. What's involved in replacing the rear main:humm:?? Pain in the arse or what, I guess it's about due, I guess...:nope:

tltruckparts 05-09-2010 10:28 AM

its kind of a pain but its not the worst thing youve ever done. i just did mine yesterday. you gotta pull the transmission, and flexplate (or flywheel). and its behind there. the rear main kit from cummins is about 80 bucks or so. i just used the 60 dollar one from napa because i dont have a cummins store around me.

TTipsword 05-09-2010 07:06 PM

if you know how to pull the transmission then it aint bad at all. i wish i had the money to do the clutch while i was there tho. check the oil pan gasket while your theere too.

Billy D 05-09-2010 08:23 PM

Not too bad:pca1: not too bad and a trani service too, I need it.

DirtyDozen 05-09-2010 09:03 PM


Originally Posted by tltruckparts (Post 553488)
its kind of a pain but its not the worst thing youve ever done. i just did mine yesterday. you gotta pull the transmission, and flexplate (or flywheel). and its behind there. the rear main kit from cummins is about 80 bucks or so. i just used the 60 dollar one from napa because i dont have a cummins store around me.

wonder what it costs to get one across the border... haha, everybody wants $150+ here, (i just let her drip...)

big bad diesel 416 05-09-2010 09:07 PM


Originally Posted by tltruckparts (Post 553488)
its kind of a pain but its not the worst thing youve ever done. i just did mine yesterday. you gotta pull the transmission, and flexplate (or flywheel). and its behind there. the rear main kit from cummins is about 80 bucks or so. i just used the 60 dollar one from napa because i dont have a cummins store around me.

:td::bat:they suck.....

and you may discover that the little trapezoid shaped bracket (#11) may be cracked and that could be your leak as well.....

it can be done in an after noon if you know how i did mine in 3 1/2 hours and that's with beer brakes.....:tu:

https://quickserve.cummins.com/rtgra.../9/fh900gi.png

---AutoMerged DoublePost---


Originally Posted by DirtyDozen (Post 553723)
wonder what it costs to get one across the border... haha, everybody wants $150+ here, (i just let her drip...)

whats your zip code?

tltruckparts 05-09-2010 09:42 PM


Originally Posted by big bad diesel 416 (Post 553724)
:td::bat:they suck.....

and you may discover that the little trapezoid shaped bracket (#11) may be cracked and that could be your leak as well.....

it can be done in an after noon if you know how i did mine in 3 1/2 hours and that's with beer brakes.....:tu:

i never have had any problems with rear mains from napa. not to mention if i do have a problem they always give me new gaskets for free.

a new oil pan gasket is recommended too. you can get away with not doing it but i did while i was in there

TTipsword 05-09-2010 11:58 PM

i would believe on a 4 wheel drive you could do the oil pan without having to lift the motor couldnt you? just get the bolts under the mount and slide it out?

Billy D 05-10-2010 06:32 AM

[QUOTE=big bad diesel 416;553724]:td::bat:they suck.....

and you may discover that the little trapezoid shaped bracket (#11) may be cracked and that could be your leak as well.....

it can be done in an after noon if you know how i did mine in 3 1/2 hours and that's with beer brakes.....:tu:

What's the trapiziod shaped bracket (#11)? I couldn't see anything, oh course I don't know what I'm looking fer, but Is it on the drivers, or passengers side? I bet thats what it is...:humm:

tltruckparts 05-10-2010 11:28 AM


Originally Posted by TTipsword (Post 553858)
i would believe on a 4 wheel drive you could do the oil pan without having to lift the motor couldnt you? just get the bolts under the mount and slide it out?

on my chevy my oil has nothing within a foot of it. but i dont know about on a dodge or not. i think theyre crossmembers are a little more in the way of the chevy's

TTipsword 05-10-2010 12:18 PM


Originally Posted by Billy D (Post 553919)
:

What's the trapiziod shaped bracket (#11)? I couldn't see anything, oh course I don't know what I'm looking fer, but Is it on the drivers, or passengers side? I bet thats what it is...:humm:

I think he is talking about the backing plate for the motore it is much larger than the rear main. look for somethin a little larger. there is a thread somewhere around here with pictures and stuff for the reaer main and oil pan gasket with great pics ill try to find it.

tltruckparts 05-10-2010 12:55 PM

https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...main-seal.html

thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure

TTipsword 05-10-2010 01:55 PM

thats exactly what i was looking for! thanks bud:c:

timdale 05-28-2010 09:16 PM

billy d, when you go in there check the crank journal for a groove. If you can feel one with your finger, put a repair sleeve on, most auto parts stores can get them. I put them on the front and rear, $8 for the front, $12 for the rear from orielly auto, and $62 for a natianal oil seal from orielly, or $110 for a rear seal and repair sleeve from cummins

big bad diesel 416 05-29-2010 02:06 AM


Originally Posted by TTipsword (Post 553684)
if you know how to pull the transmission then it aint bad at all. i wish i had the money to do the clutch while i was there tho. check the oil pan gasket while your theere too.

you just bought one lol

NadirPoint 05-29-2010 03:14 AM

My 1st Gen has always had a moist spot at the bottom of the bell housing, presumeably from the rear main seeping ever since I got it. That was alomst 50k miles and four years ago and it hasn't gotten any worse yet.

Billy D 06-01-2010 07:50 PM

Yeah mine only seems to leak slightly more when its got a fresh oil change, and only fer the 1st day or so fer some reason. I'm going to wait it out, and see if it gets worse. Man I sure hope not!!:td:

Subliminal 06-02-2010 01:17 PM

I just did mine yesterday.

I used the Napa seal. It's a Felpro, the same kit sold at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts and a billion other places. It's basically the same cost as the cummins, and probably works about the same.

Replacing the seal was cake, as I already had everything behind the crank out of the truck. I used my impact driver and screwed 3 screws in it and then used a prybar to pull the thing out. I didn't have a slide hammer like the FSM recommends.

Pulling everything behind it is the pain...I see people say they do it in a few hours, but my guess is those parts have been apart before. Mine hadn't been taken apart in 19 years and damn was it a pain to get apart!

Anyway, that's my 2 cents. :)

TTipsword 06-02-2010 04:20 PM

mine was so bad that the seal just fell apart and dropped into my hands!:jump:

hagerty_justin 05-26-2011 10:17 PM


Originally Posted by tltruckparts (Post 554080)
https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...main-seal.html

thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure

hey does anyone know what happened to this write up? my engine is out, and im going to do the seal tomorrow when the parts come in, just looking for a little bit of info.
or does anyone have a cummins service manual link?


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