Rear main leakage
My rear main on Goldie startin to drip. I tight'n the pan, but it was tight. What's involved in replacing the rear main:humm:?? Pain in the arse or what, I guess it's about due, I guess...:nope:
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its kind of a pain but its not the worst thing youve ever done. i just did mine yesterday. you gotta pull the transmission, and flexplate (or flywheel). and its behind there. the rear main kit from cummins is about 80 bucks or so. i just used the 60 dollar one from napa because i dont have a cummins store around me.
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if you know how to pull the transmission then it aint bad at all. i wish i had the money to do the clutch while i was there tho. check the oil pan gasket while your theere too.
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Not too bad:pca1: not too bad and a trani service too, I need it.
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Originally Posted by tltruckparts
(Post 553488)
its kind of a pain but its not the worst thing youve ever done. i just did mine yesterday. you gotta pull the transmission, and flexplate (or flywheel). and its behind there. the rear main kit from cummins is about 80 bucks or so. i just used the 60 dollar one from napa because i dont have a cummins store around me.
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Originally Posted by tltruckparts
(Post 553488)
its kind of a pain but its not the worst thing youve ever done. i just did mine yesterday. you gotta pull the transmission, and flexplate (or flywheel). and its behind there. the rear main kit from cummins is about 80 bucks or so. i just used the 60 dollar one from napa because i dont have a cummins store around me.
and you may discover that the little trapezoid shaped bracket (#11) may be cracked and that could be your leak as well..... it can be done in an after noon if you know how i did mine in 3 1/2 hours and that's with beer brakes.....:tu: https://quickserve.cummins.com/rtgra.../9/fh900gi.png ---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by DirtyDozen
(Post 553723)
wonder what it costs to get one across the border... haha, everybody wants $150+ here, (i just let her drip...)
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Originally Posted by big bad diesel 416
(Post 553724)
:td::bat:they suck.....
and you may discover that the little trapezoid shaped bracket (#11) may be cracked and that could be your leak as well..... it can be done in an after noon if you know how i did mine in 3 1/2 hours and that's with beer brakes.....:tu: a new oil pan gasket is recommended too. you can get away with not doing it but i did while i was in there |
i would believe on a 4 wheel drive you could do the oil pan without having to lift the motor couldnt you? just get the bolts under the mount and slide it out?
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[QUOTE=big bad diesel 416;553724]:td::bat:they suck.....
and you may discover that the little trapezoid shaped bracket (#11) may be cracked and that could be your leak as well..... it can be done in an after noon if you know how i did mine in 3 1/2 hours and that's with beer brakes.....:tu: What's the trapiziod shaped bracket (#11)? I couldn't see anything, oh course I don't know what I'm looking fer, but Is it on the drivers, or passengers side? I bet thats what it is...:humm: |
Originally Posted by TTipsword
(Post 553858)
i would believe on a 4 wheel drive you could do the oil pan without having to lift the motor couldnt you? just get the bolts under the mount and slide it out?
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Originally Posted by Billy D
(Post 553919)
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What's the trapiziod shaped bracket (#11)? I couldn't see anything, oh course I don't know what I'm looking fer, but Is it on the drivers, or passengers side? I bet thats what it is...:humm: |
https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...main-seal.html
thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure |
thats exactly what i was looking for! thanks bud:c:
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billy d, when you go in there check the crank journal for a groove. If you can feel one with your finger, put a repair sleeve on, most auto parts stores can get them. I put them on the front and rear, $8 for the front, $12 for the rear from orielly auto, and $62 for a natianal oil seal from orielly, or $110 for a rear seal and repair sleeve from cummins
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Originally Posted by TTipsword
(Post 553684)
if you know how to pull the transmission then it aint bad at all. i wish i had the money to do the clutch while i was there tho. check the oil pan gasket while your theere too.
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My 1st Gen has always had a moist spot at the bottom of the bell housing, presumeably from the rear main seeping ever since I got it. That was alomst 50k miles and four years ago and it hasn't gotten any worse yet.
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Yeah mine only seems to leak slightly more when its got a fresh oil change, and only fer the 1st day or so fer some reason. I'm going to wait it out, and see if it gets worse. Man I sure hope not!!:td:
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I just did mine yesterday.
I used the Napa seal. It's a Felpro, the same kit sold at Autozone, Advance Auto Parts and a billion other places. It's basically the same cost as the cummins, and probably works about the same. Replacing the seal was cake, as I already had everything behind the crank out of the truck. I used my impact driver and screwed 3 screws in it and then used a prybar to pull the thing out. I didn't have a slide hammer like the FSM recommends. Pulling everything behind it is the pain...I see people say they do it in a few hours, but my guess is those parts have been apart before. Mine hadn't been taken apart in 19 years and damn was it a pain to get apart! Anyway, that's my 2 cents. :) |
mine was so bad that the seal just fell apart and dropped into my hands!:jump:
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Originally Posted by tltruckparts
(Post 554080)
https://www.dieselbombers.com/24-val...main-seal.html
thats a great writeup. its for a 24 valve but its the exact same procedure or does anyone have a cummins service manual link? |
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