bigtime problem
 

so here is a two part post that is concluding to the worst day of work ever:

ok so i got done installing my clutch last night (havent put the transfer case back in yet) and i went out there today and i can shift it through all 5 gears and reverse without even pushing the clutch in. what could cause this? i thought maybe it was because i hadnt run the engine yet, so i fired it up and that is where problem number two occured. and it still didnt fix the problem. when i put it in gears the output shaft turns but i can still shift it freely through gears even with the truck running. what could cause this

part two:
so while my truck was running i figured out the clutch wasnt fixed so i went to shut it off. turn off the key, engine keeps running. it is just running right along at idle. i pull off ALL power on the injection pump, still keeps running. unplug the kill switch solenoid, still keeps running, unplug the air dog II relay (no fuel) AND IT STILL KEEPS RUNNING:scare2::scare2::scare2::scare2: the only way possible to kill it is to pull the mechanical kill lever on the pump. its like a runaway but at idle. and if i try and give it throttle it just studders. what in the world could cause this!!!!!! i remember along time ago RSWORDS saying something about when turbos go back they feed oil in and it can cause this. is this possible what happened?


any help is appreciated, as im getting very tired of this project

Pull the intercooler tube off the turbo and see if oil is getting past.

your shutoff solenoid is just cooked.I doubt runaway, if it was running good before.The manual kill wouldnt have worked if it was a runaway.Time to get a new one.On the trans check your clutch release travel it may need adjusted.

go to bed and start over tomorrow so you dont ruin all that work you've done by burning it to the ground in a fit of rage:dang::dang::argh:

if its cooked and i unplug the power to it regardless wouldnt it not have power. when i unplug it and its still running my test light doesnt show any power at all to the injection pump. shouldnt it not run if there is no power to the injection pump? especially since i unplugged the fuel pump it shouldnt be getting any fuel either.



thats funny ive contemplated that

no oil its clean on both side of the intercooler tubes

Starving the engine of fuel is not a smart way to try and kill it. If it's running from a turbo leak it won't matter (oil runaway), it's hard on the pump, and if you do manage to succeed at that you will not restart it without bleeding the injectors first. That's what the shutdown lever on the side of the pump is for. Block the air from entering the intake at the turbo with a ping pong paddle if it's running away.

Most likely the tip is gone from your shutdown solenoid. Classic symptom.

but isnt the whole point of the shutdown solenoid to stop giving power to the injection pump when the key turns off, so therefor unplugging it should do the same thing. but it can even start without the solenoid plugged in at all. or are you guys referring to the shutoff solenoid on the pump itself?

and as for adjusting the clutch how to you do that on a hydraulic system? and would a bad slave cylinder cause it not to grab the clutch if it wont pul back to engage the clutch all the way?

Im saying the shutoff solenoid is stuck on the pump!Its failing to pull up to allow fuel past into the high pressure side of the pump.All it is is a magnetic solenoid to pull a plunger up.Which allows fuel to pass.Whether or not theres electricity doesnt matter, if its no good!:argh:easy fix/cheap is to take it out,remove the plunger,then rig up a cable to pull the shutoff lever on the side of the pump.No electricity, no problem.

the clutch release,releases the clutch.Youve messed something up.Did you replace the throwout bearing and fork?Did you get oil on the clutch?notice any smells?The clutch isnt grabbing the flywheel,find out why and report back

i would like it just to turn off with a key. where can i find that new solenoid at? i just got my pump back 3 weeks ago from being rebuilt is that soemthing they shouldve replaced?

who rebuilt it?They must have got dirt or debris in the pump and it got caught in there.Id call them and complain.This is where metal partcles get stuck due to the magnet.Do you have a picture of your pump?Is it clean?was it cleaned by the shop before opening?

i didnt replace the fork it was in working order when i pulled it out. and yes i put a new throwout and pilot bearing on there and i can see the throwout sliding on the input shaft and pressing against the fins of the pressure plate. im pretty sure my slave cylinder is bad do you think it could not have enough pressure it pull itself forward or back enough, because i cant get it bled right to even get a strong pedal because the slave is leaking. could this be the case?

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it was rebuilt at industrial injection in salt lake city. it is very clean now they repainted it gloss black and it was kinda clean when i sent it to them but it wasnt that clean, it was just as clean as it was on the truck

i can shift gears with the truck off and clutch released... hmmm guessing thats a bad thing..

i can do it with the truck running without using the clutch

When the shut down solonoid frigs up it will allow the engine to run with the battery 3 towns over. :tu: The end chips and does not stop the flow of fuel, hence , engine runs till it has no fuel. If it was run away it would rev up and most likely blow up. THATS ALL IT IS. Usually they chip on a pump that is turned up with small injectors. It gets chipped when you are on the throttle hard and release the throttle all at once. This causes a rush of backed up fuel and that is what frigs it up.

i think you guys are right i just ohmed it out like the alldata process shows and it isnt within spec. so ill replace that here soon and use the manual lever to kill it.

now back to the clutch. anyone got ideas?

Replacing shutdown solenoids for this purpose is an exercise in futility. If it did it once, it'll do it again.

Call up your local VW dealer and give them this part number 0 330 001 040
Its your shut off soilnoid but for like $35...

hey rs is 1st and 2nd gen shutoff switches the same and i didnt see if this was 1st or 2nd gen in ttruckparts rig

my truck is a first gen. and thanks for that part number ive seen that link before but i couldnt find it.

anyone know about that clutch problem? thats my main concern

when i put my south bend in it came with a little spacer to go behinde the pivot ball of the clutch fork if you needed extra travel. i didn't need it but you may need to do something like that.or try replacing your slave and master cylinder, i'd go someone aftermarket for one.

was the spacer like an inch long and an inch wide or so and hollow and silver? if so i was trying to figure out what that was. im going to get a new slave cylinder tomorrow. the thing that confuses me is i can shift through gears like the clutch is engaged, but at the same time when i put it into gear the output shaft spins so the clutch must be grabbing somewhat id assume

it was about 1/2 inch thick and just big enouff to slide under the ball on the clutch fork just wondering you didn't pinch the clutch disk between the pressusr plate?? one of my friends did that on his j10 but i dont think he could get it into gear at all... just a thought there isn't anyway that air could have got into the slave cylinder is there or now here's a good one the shaft on the slave cylinder couldn't have paped out of it's hole and is riding on the edge of the piston in the slave cylinder, grab the end of the shaft and wiggle it around some see if that helps at all. I don't know if any of this will help but i'll keep tryen to think of ideas to bounce off ya.....good luck buddy

on old style truck clutches they use to block the pressure plate springs would keep it from releasing but upon installation would fallout yours didnt have something like this and maybe got hung up to keep clutch from engaging all the way

Put your transfer case back on and hook up the rear driveshaft, being able to shift through all your gears with no clutch is perfectly normal when it's not running. When your output shaft is freewheeling because the driveshaft isnt hooked up, your synchro's will bring the internals up to speed by themselves allowing you to shift it easily without the clutch when it is running. Without something holding the output shaft still, theres not really any way to see if the clutch is functioning properly.

after the end of my testing yesterday i notived the slave cylinder was leaking its toast so i just got back from driving into town ill put the new one in tomorrow hopefully thatll help my soft pedal problem (im sure it will)

i talked to jason at diesel nut motorsports and he said the exact same thing. im going to try and get the transfer case in tomorrow but cant guarantee it as im by myself and these things are heavy as we all know. but ill try and get it back together and ill keep you guys updated. thanks everyone for the help!

Re the shut off solenoid the plunger has a rubber tip that closes off the port to the high psi chamber on the VE. As the pressure drops the injectors close. That leaves fuel in the system. When you re-start the truck pressure builds up and opens injectors in firing order sequence. What usually happens is that the rubber tip on the solenoid comes apart that allows fuel to keep flowing into the HP side of the pump.

Re your trans. the trans can shift without the clutch under several conditions' 1 when the truck is not running and 2 when there is no load on the drive line. I am willing to bet that when you hook everything up it will not have this problem. What you might find the it will not shift into any gear or it will work just fine. If it does not shift my vote would go to hydraulics - clutch master/slave setup.

If you decide to re-install the drive line from trans back and it will not go into gear post - I have a solution for that.

Bob

also by just taking the fuse outa the air dog doens't mean the motor isn't getting fuel. I noticed once of my fueses blew on my air dog after about 2 days cause she was having a hard time starting but would run just fine. So the truck will still get fuel, the air dog just makes sure it stay's at a constant psi.

i wasnt pulling the fuse i was unplugging it completely but i got that situation all worked out

well heres an update. got the transfer case on, a new slave cylinder and bled it all out. i have a hard pedal now at least. so i went to put my dirvelines in and both of them are too short:argh::argh::argh: but when the truck is running, if its in neutral (no drivelines) the output on the transfer case spins very slowly and when i put it into gear, it starts spinning faster like it should. is this normal? but it is still very easy to put into gear and doesnt require a clutch. i gotta wait to get drivelines in to tell for sure but thats where im at.

thats normal,but what are you doing with you r drive shafts?why r they different now?wtf:argh:

because a manual trans is approximately 8" shorter than an auto trans with overdrive

I missed the part about him swapping to a manual trans :argh:theres alot of head bashing in this thread.Time to buy driveshafts

ok guys i got an update! today i picked up my rear driveline after having it lengthen and now i got the exact opposite problem with the transmission, it wont go into gear when the truck is running. so at least now i know i still have a tiny bit of air in the hydraulics or i need a new master cylinder. i just put a new slave in there.

so if anyone ever has this same problem its because there are no drivelines hooked up and no strain on the tranny thats why itll still go through gears effortlessly.

i forget exactly who it was who mentioned it on here but he was exactly correct. so if you have this problem and your at the same point as i was. there should lie your answer