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help! cooling system left me stranded
ok this is what i have done
replaced water pump (napa) blew/pressure washed radiator with it out of truck acid washed inside radiator (works good no leaks) changed thermostat (cummins) flushed system with water and rad clean new cap 16# non LEAVER TYPE) put on an a aftermarket catch can (holds 1quart its out of a 900 turbo sabb) and filled with water only after all that ... it got hot i have the stock gauge and a aftermarket up by the thermostat and both would say hot now when i get into the throttle the system can push up to 2-1/2gal of water out....why? so i think the T-stat is messed up i take it out...... fill the COLD system up with 3-1/2 gal of CAT ELC antifreeze i go for a drive and i drive like iam being followed by a cop and it pushes coolant out one catch can full so i collect that back into an antifreeze jug i go another 5 miles down the freeway and i see red stripes on the hood i collect another can full and i collect one more in another 5 miles and after this it runs normal so i think yea iam done..... nope i was doing a little hot rodding tonight and i look down and the coolant gauge is on the H the aftermarket is 130 (cuz its out of water) whats the deal can the water pump be pushing it out can it not be pushing enough water and letting it boil and creating to much pressure and blowing it out? its got no t stat so its a completely open system it should be OK the next resort is jumping it off the local cliffs so help me out :U: |
Any indication of combustion gases or oil in the coolant? What about water contamination in the crankcase, milky oil?
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Kinda sounds like a blown head gasket...
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yeah
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Might also be a crap water pump. Heard that some of them are bad right out of the box.
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Sounds like a the head gasket to me too.
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none had a sniffer test for comb gas nuthin cut the oil filter abart ant looked for pleats in the paper (this tells if waters been there) and none
thanks Brice |
I ran into this on my dads 6.2. The gasket(s) leaked just enough to where it would overheat, but not contaminate the engine oil with water. Your engine is 20 years old and gaskets don't last forever.
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ok but it still pukes fluid out even when its stone cold it only pushes it out at high reves when your driving it like you stole it would that still be the gasket?
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did you run the sniffer test while it was under boost?
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kinda free reved at 3400 Rpm building 5 psi
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If it's puking right when you first start it in the morning, got a leaking head gasket OR a cracked head. I'm guessing a head gasket on account of the age.
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not when you start and idle or start and drive normal only when you hotrod and get the R's up then it pukes it out
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So it's just a small enough leak into the water jacket that only lets go under enough boost.
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ok so re torq the head and try that first?
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You could try it. That has been known to stop a small leak, but I wouldn't get my hopes up, based on the description of what it's doing. I'd plan on a new HG at the earliest opportunity, just to get it done right.
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have you pressure tested the cap at all? running it with no T-stat can cause it to overheat too... if there isnt anything there to slow the coolant down enough that it has a chance to actually pull heat from the cylinders and head, a hot and boilover condition is very plausible... as for it pushing THAT much coolant out of it... somethin is taking up the coolants place such as, like others have said combustion gasses... if your head wasn't cracked/warped before it wont be long before it is... air sits on top, it can fill the head completely up with air and still keep the block wet/ semi cool and toast a head... cooling system malfunctions can be horrific, best advice... dont drive it if you can, and deffinately dont hot rod it :U:
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ok boys heres this order....
i will be pulling the motor for other reasons so help me out and dont let me forget nuthin.... 1. 12mm ARP stud kit 2. head gasket (i want to drop the comp so run the marine??) 3. have injectors popped tested replace as needed 4. replace oil pan gasket 5. kill the KDP 6. fix all oil leaks.... oh weight its a cummins never mind they all leak 7. up grade the radiator (chime in on whats best) 8. elect fans 9. 2nd gen lift pump (whats involved here) 10. have some port work done (is this needed?) 11. build a 3in crossover (non I/C) 12. frint and rear main seals 13. replace the 2nd gear syncro (trany) about the piston lift pump here i have a tuned pump from a shop so the otherday i turned the full power screw till runaway and at different points in the throttle it would get what sounded like a miss is this lack of fule? i got 2500.00 to spend help me spend it........... ---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
(Post 400740)
have you pressure tested the cap at all? :U:
ok just got the studs 450.00 not bad (free shipping) got a fule pressure gauge (autometer sportcomp) and a gauge pod 2500.00 had -716.55 spent = 1753.45 left come on guys dont let me have all the fun now! oh dose anyone know the PN for a Flex A Light fan fot this truck? |
not planning on towing i take it? the electric fans arent too great at keeping up with temps that can be produced while towing (from what i've heard) as far as i know you cant really upgrade a radiator for a first gen... best thing you could do is go talk with a guy at a radiator shop and see what he could hook you up with, i was able to go from a 2 core to a 3 core rad, but i'm pretty sure that the cummins existing 3 cores is its maximum, a custom aluminum one possibly? but that's going to KILL your funds... why are you looking to drop compression? a marine gasket may be a hair bit thicker and isnt likely to affect your compression ratio what so ever... run the marine to handle the extra heat, gotta watch out with the 2nd gen piston pump... its meant to supply pressure to a P pump... it'll result in a very leaky VE44, go with a air dog 150 for a 2nd gen 24V, i've heard everything including fittings are perfect(you'll be much happier this route). never mind the port work... not too many guys focus on this uness they're trying to squeeze every last bit out of it... its not that great of a bang for the buck... spend the time making a real nice 3" cross over :U: and get a 3 piece exh manifold, what turbo are you running? obviously not stock if your looking to unchoke the intake runner... rear main seal cost me 69 and afew cents after tax straight from cummins... get all new mounts for the old girl too, i forgot where i saw it; i think it was the chevy with a cummins conversion but he had located some polyurethane engine mounts. sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what to do bud... if you eliminate some of the things that arent THAT important you may have enouhg left over to get a re-ground cam... they arent too expensive and advertise some decent gains, spool up, economy, low end torque... just a suggestion :5:
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
(Post 400880)
not planning on towing i take it? the electric fans arent too great at keeping up with temps that can be produced while towing (from what i've heard) as far as i know you cant really upgrade a radiator for a first gen... best thing you could do is go talk with a guy at a radiator shop and see what he could hook you up with, i was able to go from a 2 core to a 3 core rad, but i'm pretty sure that the cummins existing 3 cores is its maximum, a custom aluminum one possibly? but that's going to KILL your funds... why are you looking to drop compression? a marine gasket may be a hair bit thicker and isnt likely to affect your compression ratio what so ever... run the marine to handle the extra heat, gotta watch out with the 2nd gen piston pump... its meant to supply pressure to a P pump... it'll result in a very leaky VE44, go with a air dog 150 for a 2nd gen 24V, i've heard everything including fittings are perfect(you'll be much happier this route). never mind the port work... not too many guys focus on this uness they're trying to squeeze every last bit out of it... its not that great of a bang for the buck... spend the time making a real nice 3" cross over :U: and get a 3 piece exh manifold, what turbo are you running? obviously not stock if your looking to unchoke the intake runner... rear main seal cost me 69 and afew cents after tax straight from cummins... get all new mounts for the old girl too, i forgot where i saw it; i think it was the chevy with a cummins conversion but he had located some polyurethane engine mounts. sounds like you have a pretty good idea of what to do bud... if you eliminate some of the things that arent THAT important you may have enouhg left over to get a re-ground cam... they arent too expensive and advertise some decent gains, spool up, economy, low end torque... just a suggestion :5:
i want a manafold/turbo blakket too where can i get one |
by intake runner i meant the cross over... you could get a new exh housing for your H1C, only problem is that the shaft will be the weak link... surge it afew times and it might snap the shaft... if you dont want to mess with a cam go for a turbo... alot of guys will argue about the cam... most say they'll flow plenty until you get up into the BIG numbers. i've seen the blnkets around around and they arent cheap... just do afew google searches... one from a 2nd gen will fit like a glove if they dont list one for a first gen (which they probably wont). also get yourself a roll of DEI exhaust wrap too and wrap the downpipe since your looking to drop underhood temps; no point in insulating everything else and leaving the DP to bleed off the heat
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
(Post 401191)
by intake runner i meant the cross over... you could get a new exh housing for your H1C, only problem is that the shaft will be the weak link... surge it afew times and it might snap the shaft... if you dont want to mess with a cam go for a turbo... alot of guys will argue about the cam... most say they'll flow plenty until you get up into the BIG numbers. i've seen the blnkets around around and they arent cheap... just do afew google searches... one from a 2nd gen will fit like a glove if they dont list one for a first gen (which they probably wont). also get yourself a roll of DEI exhaust wrap too and wrap the downpipe since your looking to drop underhood temps; no point in insulating everything else and leaving the DP to bleed off the heat
just rap the down pipe no manafold and turbo too whys that? |
i'm not saying to wrap JUST the downpipe, i'm saying if you get a blanket for the manifold and the turbo you might as well get a roll of exhaust wrap and wrap the down pipe... you'll be insulating everything else you might as well do the same with the down pipe. DEI is the company that makes the exhaust wrap. get on summit; it'll be like 45 bucks for a 2" wide roll of it wrap it TIGHT with 1/4 inch over lap... get some 3 inch hose clamps to hold the end in place and it wont come off, i used some of my left over stuff from the gasser when i wrapped the headers. let me run outside and take a pic; it'll make it alot easier to understand... i suck at explaining things, i just do it so i dont have much experience instructing.
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
(Post 401235)
i'm not saying to wrap JUST the downpipe, i'm saying if you get a blanket for the manifold and the turbo you might as well get a roll of exhaust wrap and wrap the down pipe... you'll be insulating everything else you might as well do the same with the down pipe. DEI is the company that makes the exhaust wrap. get on summit; it'll be like 45 bucks for a 2" wide roll of it wrap it TIGHT with 1/4 inch over lap... get some 3 inch hose clamps to hold the end in place and it wont come off, i used some of my left over stuff from the gasser when i wrapped the headers. let me run outside and take a pic; it'll make it alot easier to understand... i suck at explaining things, i just do it so i dont have much experience instructing.
when i get in there i might do bearings as well any good sources for them? |
idk if you can efficiently wrap the exhaust manifold... an aftermarket one you might be able to do it but it wont look pretty... you wont be able to wrap the turbo, how ever you could use something like this Turbonetics 31040 - Turbonetics Turbocharger Heat Shields - Overview - SummitRacing.com i believe the cummins uses the T3 flange so this might fit
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- scratch that last one... go with this... its and actual blanket and not a formed piece of tin, plus it comes with enough wrap to do the downpipe Design Engineering DEI 010141 - DEI T3 Turbo Titanium Heat Shield Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com |
1 Attachment(s)
like i said i did it with scraps... better than nothing i suppose...
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
(Post 401312)
like i said i did it with scraps... better than nothing i suppose...
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DEI-010102/ |
nah it wont burn up... wrapping the turbo is going to be tricky... if anything get some mechanics wire and make your own turbo blanket... the manifold with be a fun one... let me know how it goes bud, it is cheaper than the 150 sum buck one but alot more work...
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ok i will its all gonna be off anyway so i can take more time and do a good job ya know?
in 4 hours i got the motor hanging off the mounts jerkin it out tomorrow morn trany was a bitch i just pulled the trany and left the bell housing on i need a good breakdown for the trany 2nd gear syncro is out and i dont know if its made but what about a taller 5th gear? well motor comes out in 6 hours and then we start the hard stuff ;) well got it all out that thing is HEAVY whats the CTD weigh |
exaust manafold bolts ?
these suckers been sitting in pb blaster for 2 days and i have allready broke 2 whats the trick? oh i have a number 2 syncro out and it needs to be replaced how is this done dose anyone have a parts breakdown?/repair maunual? |
get a 3/8 impact on them... something to jar them around but not enough umph to straight up snap them off... the impact tends to free rusted and galded things up... used to work at an exhaust shop and manifold studs would usually come out with the impact or some heat...if the engine wasnt alreay out i'd actually tell you to run the truck up to operating temp and take everything loose. if all else fails put a little heat to them i dont recommend heating the head extensively (un even heating causes warping) and sometimes they have to break... as long as they dont break off flush with the head and leave about 1/2 inch shank a stud extractor will usually do the trick.
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ha ha well the 2 i broke are flush no big deal just drill and tap
i willl have to use the heat all i got in a 3/8 gun is my snap on and that will bust um for shure |
should be able to choke it down abit...and use quick bursts... dont hammer on it... be sure to center punch the bolt and use a sharp bit and avoid snapping the easy out off; you WONT be able to drill that out lol
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true
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heat the hell out of the exhaust manifold bolts, if they break weld a nut onto whatever's left sticking out and try that.:U:
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Originally Posted by DieselDanBoy
(Post 403151)
heat the hell out of the exhaust manifold bolts, if they break weld a nut onto whatever's left sticking out and try that.:U:
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heads cracked from injector to exaust seat on all 6 got a 2gen head and DDP stage 4 injectors i got the complete head for $250 good deal huh anyone want the cracked head (1990) and the
9mm (1990) injectors? pm me ALSO SEE THE ARP THREAD |
you're going to need to get the 9mm to 7mm adapters and put a set of first gen injectors in that head... 2nd gen injectors being pushed by the VE is a no no...
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Only the 1st Gen 89-91.5 heads are 9mm.
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Originally Posted by tower_ofpower
(Post 404064)
you're going to need to get the 9mm to 7mm adapters and put a set of first gen injectors in that head... 2nd gen injectors being pushed by the VE is a no no...
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