hmmmmm:humm: ive always though changing out suspension parts was easier, add blocks to the rear axel, and shakels to the front leafs... But to each is own.

I've always thought that body lifts were more of a pain than suspension lifts. Your radiator, intercooler, batteries, brake master cylinder, and everything are going to move up with the body, and won't line up like they did before. Your brake lines from the master cylinder might have to be extended. Your fuel filler tube will have to be extended since the fuel tank doesn't move up with the body. I would rather do a suspension lift and have all of those things line up like they do stock.

Hmmmmm, all very valid points. How long would it take to do a susp. lift?

If everything goes well. 4-6 hours roughly. If things go well n you know what your doing.

My beater plow truck that had a body lift when I got it had the steering stretched by welding in an impact socket that would fit over the shaft. Then it was drilled and pinned. Has a hockey puck body lift but it doesn't leave the property.

I have a 3 inch body lift pretty sure it is a rough country...my truck is on 33s could fit 35s no rubbing...love this lift gives the perfect stance...highly recomended by myself still use factory length shocks aswellhttps://www.dieselbombers.com/member...15969-002.html

I put progressive compression springs in front instead of pucks, Rancho 9000xl's, and it leveled out the truck all the way around. Measurement puts it at 2 1/2 inches higher than stock with no effect on track bar and other components.

Try that on a first gen.

What is it on if not a 1st gen?? His sig says blackmaxx. Is it on a black duramax?

Looks like he is in a CR, the 1st Gen forum is kinda the wrong place to be giving input geared towards coilsprung suspensions don't you think?

Duramax's use torsion bars...try to keep up.