what would you do frame up restore?
 

New to the forum and new to diesels. I have stripped my 93 w350 to the frame it had about 330000 miles and was pretty rusty. I want to pull the engine and tranny and paint the frame. Wasn't sure of what I wanted to do next. Since engine and tranny are off what should I do with them? KDP and new gaskets for the engine? What about tranny? What about brake upgrades? What would you do if you were rebuilding?:-)

If you're keeping the truck, i'd change all the gaskets and seals. You're doing all that work to the truck and a oil leak would be a piss off. KDP for sure.

Everthing else is just a option. Depends just how far you want to go.

Welcome to the board!

:c:

personally, id make it a ground up new truck....re-seal the engine and put a NV4500 behind it and disk brakes all the way around...thats just me. hope you enjoy your big bad diesel and the fourm!!!

im currently repainting the frame on my 92 1 ton. im curious what kind of paint your using? i went with the east wood 3 coat system, converter, encapsulator and extreme chassis black, pretty pricey but good results.

Hadn't decided yet was thinking of POR 15 with gloss black. I'm going to pull the engine this weekend and take the frame to be blasted so I have to decide quick. Did you have to blast yours before painting?

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Would you buy an rebuild kit to do this?

I've blasted a few frames and put por15 on. You will need to coat over it because it oxidizes very fast! So while its still a touch tacky spray something over it

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What did you paint over your por 15

I just used a single stage paint. if you spray while its tacky its good to go, but if you let it dry you have to scuff up everything! And that's a pain lol
It comes with pretty easy to follow instructions and what will work with it.
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If I was that far I would just take it and have it rhino lined and then you'll never have to worry about it getting scratched and rust building up.

Ground up rebuild I would keep the 727 trans since they are bulletproof if you take care of them, Bradford 4 box flatbed with hydraulic dump, billet or diamond plate dash almost flat with custom gauges, swap the grill for a custom made one piece with open center, dual headlights side x side, Dual 6" exhaust straight piped dumping right behind both front tires, 3rd gen mirrors, swap the windshield wiper setup so I don't have to worry about plastic clips anymore... The list goes on and on but the sky is the limit.

I am waiting for my dad to retire so he can help me do a build on my first gen and when it's finished I am going to give him the truck since he is the one that gave it to me when I was 16 as my first truck. Been in the family since 93 when it was bought new.

My next truck is going to be a 3rd gen? With no motor and tranny so I can swap in a 350-400hp motor home cummins and tranny. 30-35k LB Towing machine right there! Idk If they would let me use it in sled pulling though... Yet another sport I wanna try out

I been thinking about going with a flatbed the bradfords are nice. What kind of hydraulic dump would u use

Specifically... Hands down a splitez 10 ton

http://www.splitez.com/10_Ton_dump_h...t_flatbed.html

no, the rust converter is the first step it kills the rust and converts it into a paintable surface. for the seriously flaking rust spots i use paint scraper or wire brush on a grinder to take the rough stuff off. then clean with eastwoods pre painting prep spray to remove any dirt dust or oil and grease residue. then applied the converter.i have the rear quarter all the way done and im pleased with it. the toughest part was disassembling the leaf springs :dang: and painting all those parts. good luck with your resto project

I believe i spoke too soon when i made the statement that the eastwood 3 step process was good. I had just painted the frame a few day prior to that claim. now that the frame has weathered a little i have been noticing small chips in my freshly painted black frame with bright orange/red rust where the chips came off. pissed off doesnt even begin to describe my mood. i have taken my grinder and a wire wheel and buffed all the paint off around the chipped area all the way down to bare metal. the converter says on the bottle to apply directly over rust, didnt work for me. I cut all the bubbled paint and chipped places back down to bare metal, cleaned with prep spray then skip converter and began with 2 light coats of rust encapsulator then 2 light coats of extreme chassis black. also to anyone who may use these products in the future if youre using brush on rust encapsulator be very careful. this stuff forms a skin very quickly and will appear to be dry within a matter of minutes. that is not the case from my experience, it is very easy to apply this stuff too thick which will cause the skin to form on the outside which will not let the inside dry correctly. therefor the spray encapsulator is much safer to use because 2 light coats of spray will allow even drying and coverage. I am now just repairing the chipping places as they become evident using the same steps as before.

Have you thought about powder coating it?