Hard start
 

I have a 98 12v that is not starting like it used to. I have to push the throttle where it used to start by just turning the key. Is there an adjustment on the P pump to make it start normal again?

Mods done - larger turbo, 5 hole injectors, fuel plate, full exhaust. Maybe more, I purchased the truck with everything done.

What rpm does it idle at in park?

1000 RPM in park 750 RPM in drive with the a/c on. I have had to turn the idle up two times during the summer about 1/2 turn each time on the adjustment screw.

Have you changed your fuel filter? There is also a fuel heater on the driver's side of the block that has a screen filter that can plug up. Personaly, my truck has always started best with a light blip of the throttle while cranking.

mine used to start with half a crank...till i put the injectors in... now it take about 2 1/2 cranks.

I have a new fuel filter and cleaned the screen by the fuel heater. I dont mind pushing the pedle to start but when I want to use the remote start it is a problem.

OFV going bad, maybe? try pinching off the return line and starting it, just to see what it does...don't run it like that, but just start it and see if it starts quicker....

OFV is brand new. I will hook the fuel PSI gauge back up to it and check, is there any other way I could be loosing prime going back the other direction through the pump?

My two month old Tork Tek adjustable OFV that was factory set at 32 psi is only reading 15 psi on my fuel pressure gauge. I adjusted it almost all the way in last night and got it up to 23 psi. I started it up this morning and it was at 30 psi till things warmed up a bit and it went back down to 23 psi. Could this be a lift pump related issue? (I don't even want to think about it being the P pump)

I know with my brand new Tork Tek, I could only get my psi up to about 20 at best, no matter what else I did. It took me buying a used Airdog 150, and running that to get my pressure up to 40 psi. might have just been the fact that the factory lines were too restrictive?
I also deleted the fuel preheater, and got rid of that...it helped an air leak, but didn't help out much in the psi department.

I Got my new OEM lift pump installed and it runs about 28 psi (with the tork tek OFV closed all but about 1-1/2 truns). It starts right up now even when its cold. I still have to tap the peddle a little.... but it is alot better. I think the lift pump was going out or just worn out from 160k miles.

mine cranked in half a turn until my injectors also.. now its about 3 turns unless i push the throttle barely. before that it took about 40 seconds because my return line behind the filter got old and rotted and let air in, replaced and now back to normal

Why would the return line have anything to do with starting? I only ask because I think I am loosing prime somewhere.

i have no idea, stumped me to.. i bought the truck like that, it wasnt leaking fuel just rotted, and my truck never would start the first time of the day. took forever. i replaced pump, lines, heater, drainer, everything, then one day my return line started leaking, fixed it and ive never had a problem. never thought a return line already past everything on its way to tank, never ever guessed that could be it but it was, 2 weeks ago my buddies started leaking in the same spot cuz of rotting, i replaced it for him and asked him and he said his would still start, im stumped on the idea