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-   -   problems after p pump swap (https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-valve-2nd-gen-dodge-cummins-94-98/75482-problems-after-p-pump-swap.html)

FIRST GEN. JAKE 04-28-2011 08:11 PM

problems after p pump swap
 
ever since i swaped p pump on to my 93 i been having problems. when first got it running it popping and white smokeing and i bumped the timing some and fixed it. now a few weeks ago it started dieing on me right after start it up. it starts then runs fine for a little bit then starts studdering and dies then has hard time starting back up and runs crappy till throttle it some. i though maybe the timing slipped to i pulled the gear and sprayed break cleaner on the shaft and gear hole and blowed compressed air on it and bumped it a lil more then installed the gear. now when you start the truck it still dies and it idles differnt now. truck been sitting in the shop for about a week while i fixed my tranny and started it today and it died, started it back up and it hazes white/gray smoke at idle. drove it out the road and truck blows white smoke till the engine gets some heat into it. and still has a gray tint to it. im not sure what my problem is. i thought it was timing but ive fooled with it and still wont run right. truck seem to be alot faster and ran better after last time i bumped it. kinda think might be losing prime but not sure. any thoughts? every thing was changed over has a 215 pump off a 97 had local pump guy put another gov assmebly in it cause previous one was junk, also has 4 k gov springs, cut dv's, custom ground plate. injectors are used set of sposedly marines i got in the deal with the pump. running piston lift pump, 97 fuel filter housing, lines and all that.

captain_stabbin 04-28-2011 08:24 PM

when you set the timing, did you set it with the gauge?

FIRST GEN. JAKE 04-29-2011 12:06 AM

no i just bumped the engine back some to advance it. i know i need a gauge but at the moment i aint got 140 bucks to buy one.

kieron_kohlmann 04-29-2011 10:03 AM

Mine was doing the same thing. Running like garbage and would die. check your transfer pump pressure with a gauge.

gone ropin 04-29-2011 10:21 AM

check the lift pump and also check the pressure relief valve on the return line on the pump, sounds like your starving for fuel some, get the fuel issue resolved and then set your idel speed....:c:

FIRST GEN. JAKE 04-29-2011 03:57 PM

i wanted to just put a airdog on it and not fool with all the stock crap for this very reason but 500 dollars is hard to come by at the moment. what do yyou mean pressure relief valve im not sure where thats at? aint no valve it the return line that i know of.

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well i think i found the problem the return line had a bad kink in it and it was leaking some at the fitting where i went from the metal line to the plastic think i got it all fixed. but i still think my timing is off though

kieron_kohlmann 04-29-2011 04:55 PM

Pressure relief is built into the banjo bolt on the return of the pump.

FIRST GEN. JAKE 04-29-2011 05:47 PM

i thought maybe thats what he was refering to

pukie370 04-29-2011 07:15 PM

I had same problem and it turned out being the fuel cylinoid was not opeaning all the way.

FIRST GEN. JAKE 04-30-2011 12:43 AM

not the case here cause i have no fuel solinoid lol it has pull cable on it and spring, pretty positive its returning to run postion as it should. il double check it though

captain_stabbin 04-30-2011 02:07 AM

chances are, if you didnt set the timing with a gauge its way off

madmikeismad 04-30-2011 04:26 AM

Not true. You can set it based off stock pump timing by using basic math and a marker.

(Assuming you know what your pump is pinned at)

FIRST GEN. JAKE 04-30-2011 01:28 PM

we started from stock timing with the pump pinned and it was running like shit to we bumped the engine backing some but im not positive what the timing is at

captain_stabbin 04-30-2011 07:38 PM

with the pump on tdc is not stock timing

madmikeismad 04-30-2011 09:48 PM

#1 has to be at TDC, with the pin showing, and that is stock timing (or whatever the pump was pinned at). Should be marked on the side of the pump.

Chevy72 05-01-2011 12:40 AM


Originally Posted by FIRST GEN. JAKE (Post 747261)
not the case here cause i have no fuel solinoid lol it has pull cable on it and spring, pretty positive its returning to run postion as it should. il double check it though

I think I just found your problem. The fuel shut off soleniod opens fully during cranking and then backs off just a little bit when you stop cranking and the engine is running. If you are running a cable set up instead of a electric soleniod you could be leaving it at full open during running condition. try shutting the shut off just a little bit, I mean just a little bit, and see if that helps. also check for full travel of the lever and your cable. not enough pull on the shut off lever can cause the same symtoms

FIRST GEN. JAKE 05-01-2011 12:42 PM

hmm i did not know this but i will give it a try.thanks for the info. it seems like my problems with it dying and being hard to start arised after i installed my cable

wizard 07-14-2011 04:06 AM

I had a ishue with an engine that would run the same way yours is doing, and it turned out that it was 180% out of time the pump that is, it will run still but it will be hard starting and smoke! the crankshaft turns twice to one turn of the cam It could be a half a stroke out ! the fuel has to be delivered on the compression stroke! The fix was to lock the pump and losen the nut and take puller and brake the gear lose then turn the crankshaft one turn back to tdc and lock it down while the marks line up that fixed the one I was doing

FIRST GEN. JAKE 07-14-2011 01:51 PM

i re did the timing on it and the truck would still losing prime and wouldnt start so i bought a airdog and fixed that problem. truck runs good now. not sure on the shut down cable deal tried it bunch of different ways never really changed anything


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