Lift Pump Symptoms
 

what happens when its going out? my truck started sputtering then it got to where when you put it in drive it idles rough i changed my fuel filter just a few ago and it was half full of fuel shouldnt it be full? how hard or long does it take to change the lift pump? whats to it?

Its going out you need to change it asap you dont ever want to run it long periods of time its not good at all on your pump i would suggest an upgrade to an airdog their the best

i put a post up about our lift pump about a week ago, you should check it out because mine was doing the same as yours. its called truck would not start, figured out the problem.

is it the original pump? how many miles are on it?

no it was changed a while ago a year or two

The only way to know what a fuel pump is doing is with a fuel pressure gauge.

it tricky to swap out lift pumps? any tricks or it straight forward bolt of bolt on

2 bolts, 2 line connections, piece 'o cake.

do you have to prime it or some thing? just pump it then crack injectors or what?

You may or may not have to prime anything. Just change it and crank, see if it fires.

Do you leave the out-flow side hard fuel line attached to the lift pump(removing it from the filter housing end) when taking out the old pump?

I take it your lift pump does not look lke this:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...cs/CTD_195.jpg

Down on the side of the block, in the background.

Yeah that is the same as mine. I can not see where the fuel line comes off the pump as it sits on the engine (going to the filter housing) and it seems like it might be easier to remove the pump with the line still attached at that end.

I guess you are saying that disconnecting it at the pump itself shouldn't be much trouble?

That's where I'd take it off. Otherwise, unless you are replacing both the line and the pump you will just have double the number of fittings to screw off and back on....

Yeah I would have to agree with you. And the shape of that line makes me think it might get hung up trying to get it out still attached to the pump.

I guess I just got to get my head down in there a little further.

thx for the reply

If you change your fuel filter and the engine and filter won't prime your probably looking at a bad lift pump.

It makes it easier to change the pump if you get some longer bolts of the same size. I've changed several without using them but it is a pain in the butt.

the fuel line that goes from the top of lift pump to the fuel filter top that bolt is 14mm and its a angle towards the engine dont strip it like i did lol

bow:w2:

thanks for the tip - but I gotta ask how did you reach it? from above or below?

take the starter off disconnect the battery take to cables of starter the 3 bolts and it will make it so much easier:tu: whats up tony lol .

I was hoping to avoid going that route but didn't have that recommendation-

I can see a straight shot to the pump if I take off the inside wheel shroud. but it has plastic rivets holding it in place which would need to be cut and then there's the issue of how to replace it.

Biggest challenge of repairs for me is not to end up with twice as many things to fix as I started with....:dang:

I've done one from up top and one from below. Doing it from the top is marginally easier.

Best way is right through the wheelwell, drill out the plastic rivets and remove the plastic inner fender. I then took a sawzall and cut out a little of the steel inner fender (the plastic covers it anyways) and the fuel pump is right there in front of you. It's a lot easier than pullin the starter and reachin up if you don't have access to a lift. You can get the plastic rivets at the parts store for like 40 cents each. :c:

the starter is easy to take off its the easiest part of the whole deal lol and you can lay under the truck have lots of space to work your going to need it to when you try to get the bolts back in and every thing lined up. be faster then taking off fender and cutting your truck up

Who said anything about taking off the fender? I said the plastic splash shield, and I cut my inner fender BEHIND where the splash shield covers it. I just changed mine a couple months ago so I thought I would offer my .02, If you know the best way to do it Go for it

Thx for the responses. I was gonna head over to napa and see what they had for reattaching that shroud. I can see without removing it that the pump is right there - straight shot. But I can see some of the fender might still be in the way.

Tough choice

I only had to cut out a small piece of the steel inner fender, like 3''x3'' and starting the bolts is a piece of cake through the wheelwell :c:

Thanks -definitely a big help with that tip.
:c:

i just changed mine last week and from what i saw from under with the starter off looked easiest to me. no need to get but hurt, there are 3 different opinions here one from top one from side one from bottom. just check it out from each angle and you decide its straight forward i think the biggest thing is getting the fuel line off and on with out stripping or kinking it. just take your time and don't get frustrated :tu:

I didn't have any problem getting the fuel line off and on. Did you get your system bled ? I see you're lookin for an injection pump :c:

ya i got it back together and still running the same so i guess the pump is bad not lift pump :td:

I was still getting air after changing the lp, I came to the conclusion that one of my steel lines was bad, it wasn't leaking fuel but was letting air in. I installed a draw straw and diesel approved rubber hose all the way from the tank to the lp. Solved my problem. You could have a weak ofv also, do you have a fp guage? :c:

no i dont have a fp gauge is the ofv the one on the ppump?

It's the bango bolt on the return line coming out of the IP if it's bad it's just relieving the pressure back to the fuel tank. From what I have read P pumps don't go bad very often, but anything can happen. :c:

ya idk it starts easy but it runs funny when idle and when i put it in drive it idle down like it wants to die and when driving it sounds like a helicopter idk if its a miss or what

idk why but i have noticed this problem a lot more with automatics. mine used to die at idle so i started replacing things. Fuel filter and prefilter changed and no change. bumped up my idle still nothing. just so happened a set of unwanted stock injectors from a 96 manual fell in my lap so i put those in and everything has been perfect since. i dont remember any kind of helicopter noises though. i would inspect every fuel line and definatly your ofv as well. mabey timing. many things could be wrong. first step would be to know your fuel pressure.

After considering the different approaches I decided to go for the straight shot - from the side. After taking off the inner fender shroud I used a metal blade on a sawzall and made a single horizontal cut of about 4" in length after which I was able to bend the lower part of the inner fender out of the way. This gave a clear shot to the LP which made the swap a breeze. While I was at it I cleaned out the pre-filter and removed the heater element which seemed like it may have been leaking.

The only difficulty was in getting the mounting bolts re-threaded so I decided to put studs in the block and then just assembled the unit hanging on them. They are 8 mm x 1.25.

The inner fender folded right back in place and after a touch of some primer seems no worse for the wear. Included is a picture of the access.

The truck fired right up and runs like a champ. Thanks for everyone's tips and I hope this helps someone else. This site is GREAT!

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:c:

so how many miles did that LP last you before you replaced it? (ktfroy)

130k