conversion write-up 47re to nv4500
 

Alright I finally got around to writing up my 47re to nv4500 swap and figured I might as well do it while its fresh in my head. First off sorry for the lack of pictures in this write up, working on the swap by my lonesome taking pictures at the time wasn’t a high priority.
First things first my truck was a 96 extended cab long bed 12 valve Cummins 4x4 and this is what is needed to accomplish the nice stock look swap to a nv4500. The nv4500 transmission, clutch, pressure plate, bell housing, pilot Bering, throw out Bering, the complete hydraulics, the clutch/brake pedal assembly (including all clips and poly sleeves just in case you loss one in the process), a front driveshaft, the shifter along with rubber grommet and leather boot, new Colum plastics, the 29 spline female shaft to replace the 23 spline shaft in your transfer case (need this to mate the standard transmission to your existing transfer case, and flywheel throw out fork assembly, and 4x4 lever and bracket from a standard truck.
I started by swapping in the clutch and brake pedals, this is done by craftily placing yourself on your back looking under the dash and by using a flashlight, 90 degree needle nose pliers, and a flat head screw driver I removed the c clip on the left side of the shaft, next I slide the shaft out to the right where there is room to do so and slid off the brake pedal, I then greased the poly sleeves and aligned them properly and slide the new brake and clutch pedals onto the existing shaft. Put the c clip back on and I moved to installing the clutch master cylinder unit. There is a rubber plug directly behind the newly placed clutch pedal that simply pops out and the hydro unit’s twists into place. The slave cylinder line and push rod runs along the fire wall and down to where it will hook into the tranny, the fluid reservoir will be mounted in the engine compartment on the firewall.
Next I removed the O/D selection button in the dash and with a punch and hammer removed the pin holding the automatic gear selector in place and installed the new column plastics without the hole. I went as far as coving up the PND123R in the gauge cluster but that’s at your discretion. I then removed the leather surrounding the 4x4 lever along with the rubber grommet. I then removed the drive shafts and set aside.
I then unhooked the electrical harnesses to the auto and supported the tranny with a floor jack, (tranny jack advised) along the passenger side of the bell housing under the heat exchanger is a access panel that is used to remove the torque converter bolts they are 16mm and should be six if I remember correctly. Next I removed the access panel to view the flywheel and converter and removed the converter plug to drain all the fluid from the converter. Next I ratchstrapped the tranny to the jack and removed the bell housing bolts and 4x4 lever for clearance as I kept the transfer case and tranny together in removing it. I then removed the tranny cross member and dropped that out of the way. With everything unhooked and removed the tranny and transfer case can be removed.
The flex plate is then removed and flywheel torque down in its place insuring the pilot Bering is new and greased install the clutch, pressure plate alignment tool and torque down to spec. The throw-out fork assembly can then be installed in the bell housing and bell housing bolted to the engine. I then bolted the slave cylinder up to keep the fork from falling in the way while stabbing the input shaft through. The standard can then be bolted in and supported with a jack till the transfer case is ready. I then bolted on the shorter 4x4 lever bracket.
The transfer case will then have to be completely disassembled to replace the 23 auto spline with the 29 standard female shafts. You will need a 1 5/8 freeze plug to plug the shaft to keep transfer case fluid from filling the gap between the transmission and transfer case. I used a Bering press to install this to the correct depth. Once put back together and sealed I used grey RVT the case can be bolted to the tranny. Using a bottle jack and a 4x4 I spread the frame to make ease to reinstall the cross member to support the new tranny and case. Using the shorter front driveshaft out of a standard truck bolt that back in. now in my case I was able to reuse my stock rear driveshaft with the tranny and transfer case only being a in shorter than the auto and case and more than 2/3 of the rear drive shafted splined into transfer case.
I returned to the cab of the truck and cut out the carpet and used a sheet metal cutting bit to peel away the hole for the shifter. Once big enough I sprayed the fresh metal with primer and installed the shifter into the Colum, silicone the grommet that screws to the floor and run the leather boot over the shifter and new 4x4 levers. The cab is finished.
Wiring is easy find the plug for the neutral safety switch from the auto it will be a three wire plug with the middle wire being purple and black, cut that wire and splice a length of wire long enough to travel up one side of the neutral safety switch on the slave/master cylinder for the clutch. There should be two green wires cut off the plug splice the newly run of wire from the purple and black wire to one if the green wires and ground out the other green wire this your new neutral safety switch. For reverse lights use the single wire harness off the standard transmission, cut the plug off on the side that doesn’t clip into the tranny and splice in the two remaining wires that were left were you used the purple and black one for your safety switch. Positive with positive negative with negative this is now your reverse lights.
As a disclaimer its recommended to follow all torque and bolt specs along with what needs to be greased and what not, its recommended to cap all remaining wires and plugs and fill your new nv4500 with mopar nv4500 fluid it takes roughly 4.2 quarts. Using a tranny jack is safest I used what I had. Overall the conversion took three full days to complete with waiting for parts and running around for things that I didn’t have. It ran me to 3000.00 + or – a few for all parts 3500.00 covered all materials including gaskets, fluids and so on. This write up is a basic overview ,so some of the basics might have been overlooked consult your manual for proper installation and removal procedures.

Any feedback is welcome (including negative if you speak your mind ill speak mine) any questions my name is Chris feel free to Pm me.

:tu: good info:c:

good write up man, bet its a fun truck with the stick:tu:

ah completely different truck now:rocking:

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and thanks yeah i did way too much homework for this swap i can honestly say besides my first time trying to stab the input shaft through it wasnt a hard swap at all.

AHH CANT WAIT!!! :jump:

Going to be doing this myself soon. I already have the nv4500 and 341HD transfer case with the input for the manual.. will I need all new driveshafts, or will the ones from my auto still work?

well i have a ext cab and i used the front drive shaft out of the manual truck and found my stock rear to work just fine the entire tranny and transfer case was only a inch shorter and i still had more then 2/3rds of the splined shaft on the driveshaft in the transfer case so i oped to not lenghten it for an inch and have had no problems.

i cant wait to do mine.

are the adapter plates the same on the engine or do i need to swap them?

would like to do a 4500 or a 5600 into my '98, but have been discouraged by people who say, "better just to trade for a manual-shift truck".

Since I don't have floor-space, knowhow or unlost wrenches, I've gotta get these kinds of projects hired-out.

Just had a major reconfiguration done on son's ramcharger, to include cummins/NV4500

it's very lovable now

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you'll need an adapter plate. I didn't realize this before, but, a flywheel and clutch are NOT surrounded by the bellhousing, in the same manner as the flexplate is. I'd always assumed the bellhousing just bolted direct to the block all the time. it doesn't.

:yeah:, one less slushbox on the road:tttt:

Thanks for taking the time to type this out, I don't need it but I'm sure it will help alot of people out:tu:.

i myself am gettin a nv4500 tranny the transfer case etc. anytging i need for 900. so your rear ds yoke fit it? and is there a power difference. how much did the gaskets run? wat about startin the truck is that along with changin wires

Great write up, i glad i came across this. Very helpful:tu:

yes rear driveshaft fit fine as long as 2/3 of the splined shaft is in the yoke its alright. as for gaskets there really isnt any a paper one between the tranny and tcase and i used grey rtv when i tore apart the tcase. as for wiring you will need to make ur neutral safty switch to start the truck no codes are thrown at least not my year truck and only the tranny temp warning light comes on cus its no longer in the tranny but a resister fixes that. and the power difference is noticeable like a completely diff truck

Im converting my 97' to a 5speed now and i didnt see any problems really except taking all the auto stuff out and making it look like a manuel. I would rather convert this, then convert a 80' chevy just because you gotta drop the steering wheel and make holes in the firewall.:td:

47RE TO NV4500 CONVERSION
 

Hello All, I just have a question about the conversion.

do anyone know how to rewire the speed sensor?

the speed sensor for the automatic tranny is in the tranny.

but for the manual tranny its in the diff.

so i am just hoping someone knows how to rewire that, if you do can you please explain.

thank you very much

Im thinking it has its own wires going to it

Hey there
 

well my rear diff has a sensor on the top of it, with 2 wires coming out of it, but they are just wrapped up and laying there, looks like when the diff was manufactured they just put the sensor in the diff, so that it would have it if the truck it was going in was going to be a manual.

but there is no harness for them to plug into, so do you know where they go when they leave the diff, that way i know where to splice them in at.

Thank you for your time

speedo is in the transfercase on my truck.....:humm:

any chance you could take a pic of where yours is at in your transfer, and what the harness that plugs into it looks like?

I just want to make sure i do this right, and only have to do it one time

Thank you

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Hey there Dirt Diver, teh forum wont let me PM you cause I dont have enough posts yet, so I have to respond here.

well right now, i dont have anything hooked up, im actually converting my truck to the 98 cab so that i have the back doors, but i am maintaining all of the 97 equipment.

so at the moment, i dont have a bed or cab on the truck, the motor is out and im rebuilding it. so right now, it is just a frame, so im hoping to get the wiring straightened out befor i start putting it back together.

thanks

Do you mean your speedo cable (that goes in the transfer case) Or the speed sensor (that goes in the rear differal)

well my truck does not have a cable, it is electronic.

so according to dodge, right now I have a speed sensor in the transmission. but once i put the manual tranny in, i will have to use the speed sensor/abs sensor in the diff.

so basically i have my factory wiring, and i need to know where to splice in the harness from the diff.

was your truck a manual truck from the factory or was it converted?

and does your truck have a speedo cable coming from the transfer? or a sensor in the diff?

thanks bud

the speedo cable is in the transfer case and the speed sensor is in the diff. And my truck was converted. Is your truck a 2wd or 4wd

4WD

ANY CHANCE YOU COULD SEND ME A PIC OF WHERE YOUR SPEEDO CABLE IS ON YOUR TRANSFER, AND WHERE IT IS GOING.

OH AND DID YOU HAVE TO ADD TEH CABLE WHEN YOU CONVERTED OR WAS IT ALLREADY THERE?

THANKS

Loading pics now, and it was there from factory. but here is some pics: This is goin from the transfer case to the motor
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...modules004.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...modules009.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...modules011.jpg[/IMG]
This is the bundle of wires that went to the auto trans. Thoses wires for the speed sensor is in with this bundle.
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...modules016.jpg[/IMG]
Hard to see but the bundle hooks to a plate which that hooks to the back of the motor
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...modules017.jpg[/IMG]
Then it all goes into one bundle

OK SO THAT I UNDERSTAND, WHEN YOU DID YOUR CONVERSION, YOU USED THE FACTORY HARNESS FOR THE AUTOMATIC TRANNY, AND YOU JUST LEFT THE EXTRA CONNECTORS HANGING, AND PLUGGED THE SPEED SENSOR BACK IN TO THE TRANSFER CASE?

WHAT ABOUT THE ABS SENSOR IN THE REAR DIFF, HOW DID YOU TIE THAT IN?

I lefted that alone!! but have you converted your truck yet? because you gonna have to ground out the safety neutral switch and i will upload a pic for that also.

I AM RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE CONVERSION, SO AS OF NOW I HAVE JUST REMOVED ALL THE FACTORY STUFF.

SO YOU JUST HOOKED UP, THE SPEEDO CABLE, AND THE NEUTRAL SAFETY SWITCH?

DOES YOUR SPEEDOMETER GAUGE WORK?
WHAT ABOUT REVERSE LIGHTS?

ONLY ASKING CAUSE THE DEALER SAID I WAS GOING TO HAVE TO FIGURE OUT HOW TO SPLICE IN THE ABS/ SENSOR IN THE DIFF OR MY SPEEDOMETER WOULD NOT WORK.

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HEY

I dont see why they dont you that. When i converted mine i used the donor truck transfer case which was gear 4.10 and mine was geared 3.55. So i had to switch the speedo gear and it just worked fine. On the neutral safety switch, theres a wire that is black with a white tracer you gotta ground that out because if you dont ground it out. the truck wont do nothing!

OK SO I NEED TO CONNECT A GROUND TO THE BBLACK/WHITE WIRE.


YOUR TRANSFER LOOKS DIFFERANT THAN MINE, DID YOU PUT IN A 2ND GEN NV4500, OR THE FIRST GEN GETRAG TRANNY?

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oh and do you have a pic of where your speedo cable is connected to the transfer case?

The second pic down is the speedo wires hookin to the transfer case.

Yes its a 2nd gen. nv4500 and the transfer case is a 241 HD with pto (which is the same thing as a 241 HD)

On your stock wireing theres a 3wire, 3plugs (cant remeber the color of the wires) but heres the pic of it
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...lswitch005.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...lswitch008.jpg[/IMG]

And cut the black/white tracer and ground it out. And with the other 2 wire you gotta wire in the connector for the backup lights and here is a pic of it also
Attachment 44610
[IMG]http://i994.photobucket.com/albums/a...lswitch002.jpg[/IMG]

HEY BUD, YOU KINDA CONFUSED ME, EARLIER YOU SAID SPEEDO CABLE, SO I WAS THINKING YOU ACTUALLY HAD A CABLE LIKE THE OLDER CARS.

SO WHEN YOU SAID SPEEDO CABLE YOU WERE TALKING ABOUT THE ELECTRIC CONNECTOR IN PIC 2?

IS THAT RIGHT, CAUSE I HAVE BEEN TRYING TO FIGURE OUT HOW THE HECK I WAS GONNA PUT A CABLE IN MY TRUCK.

THANKS BUD

Sorry man but yea its all electrical

SO IN PIC 1 YOU HAVE THE 3 PIN CONNECTOR, DO I NEED TO DO ANYTHING WITH THAT ONE OR JUST ZIP TIE IT UP?

Did you get a donore truck or did you just buy the trans?

And pic 1 is the stock speed senor(thats for the auto tranny) and you need to cut thoses 3wires and you need to add that connector in pic 3&4 (that connector came with manuel trans because that is your reverse lights)

damn, seems like a pretty easy swap. i did an nv4500 swap in my chevy Gasser and i had to drill a hole in the firewall, whole new pedal bracket assembly, new transfer case, all kinds of wiring, tuning, ect. thats why i was dead set on finding my cummins with a 5 speed, wouldnt have been that bad of a swap.

a tip for anyone lookin to do the swap, dont hit your local salvage yards, craigslist, or ebay. go on Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market, fill out the info for the desired truck and search for a transmission, it will show you the invintory of all the good organized salvage yards around, for me i couldnt find any in florida that had it, i found mine in Kentucky. i just called the salvage yard and told them i wanted everything pertaining to the transmission down to the wiring conectors. i got my whole setup with the t-case, cross member, wiring, everything down to the shifter boot for 900 bucks delivered to my front door, didnt have to spend any time in a salvage yard looking for parts. spent 400 bucks on a clutch(for a gas truck, this is the baddest clutch you can get, no such thing as a $1200 twin disc setup lol) and i was on the road for under 1500 bucks all said and done

i did not get a donor truck, but i bought the parts from a guy that blew up his engine.

I got, the tranny, transfer,bellhousing, clutch assembly, hydraulics, pedals, steering column, shifters, drivelines, crossmember, and the engine harness, with the harness that goes to the tranny.

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ok so the connector in pic one i have to cut off of the wires, and one of those 3 wires is Black with a white tracer, and i have to ground that one. and the other 2 i need to splice onto the 2 wire connector in pic 3.

is all that right?

yes that is correct!

ok and that will take care of the ground for my cruise control, and my reverse lights, right?

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oh, if the above is correct, then which wires do i need to hook up for my speed sensor?

For the speed sensor, it should be on the stock wiring harness

If iam thinking right, your cruise control has nothin to deal with this. And wire up that connector and you will have reverse lights