1998 dodge ram no gauges no charge no wts light
 

Ok guys i do have Transmission problems but need 2 put that aside for now. Today i was cheking the truck wich we just got a few days ago and the truck does not charge also no wait 2 start light and none of my gauges work need 2 fix that first before taking the transmission down any help please

Sounds like a dead PCM.

Agreed sounds like pcm is not linking up inside the cab if you have access to a obd scanner i bet there will be no communication with the pcm if so it may tell you whats up but it also could be a ground in the dash wiring harness i would also sheck your grounds and the fuses for blown fuses and corosion casuing no contactbut pcm very likely

Thanks Guys I will check and post results

Does the odometer say NOBUS by any chance?

No it just flashes all the time why

Because in my 2000 when the gauges quit workin it showed no bus it was a son of a gun to figure it out! Tired new gauge cluster nope tried new PCM nope finally the tech checked every pin in the connector and found a loose one and it was fixed. Something simple but it was a bitch and expensive to find. Good luck!

Try unplugging all the connectors on the PCM and plugging them back in. Do this a few times as it helps clean the contacts. Also check all your grounds. Also check the CPS on the front. If it doesn't send a signal to the PCM the PCM thinks the truck is off and will shut down the other stuff.

Try doing the cluster self diagnostic test, with the key off hold the odometer reset button in turn key on and continue to hold the button in for approx 10 seconds, see if any codes come up in the odometer window.

Sorry for taking solong 2 get back guys . I did the cluster self diagnostic test and these are the codes it gave me 920,921 and 999 any 1 know what they are Please Thank u

98+ Ram Instrument Panel Test

920: The cluster is not receiving a vehicle speed message from the PCM.

1. Check the PCM software level and reflash if required.
2. Use a DRB III scan tool to verify that the vehicle speed message is being sent by the PCM.

921 - The cluster is not receiving a distance pulse message from the PCM.

1. Check the PCM software level and reflash if required.
2. Use a DRB III scan tool to verify that the distance pulse message is being sent by the PCM

999 - An error has been discovered.

1. Record the failure message.
2. Depress the trip odometer reset button to continue the Self-Diagnostic test.

Dusterb318 do u know for how much does a DRB III scan tool cost. Thank you

I have seen them for $100 or so. Most parts stores will carry them. I just looked those codes up online.

Randy. I had the exact same thing happen in my 97. Its a fuse in the fuse block that blows that powers the ECM. Double check them all with a flashlight behind them so you can clearly see any breaks in the filament.

Mine turned out to be the fuel shutoff solenoid, and I replaced it with a cable. I didn't see if your 98 was a 12v or 24v. If its a 12V, it MIGHT be the solenoid, but it could be anything. The ECM controls the voltage regulator (making it not charge) the gauges, and in the 98, the transmission solenoids... So thats what it is without question.

If a fuse is blown, its the PCM fuse, which also powers the shutoff solenoid lift relay (at least in 97's). Unplug the solenoid, replace the fuse, tie the fuel shutoff arm up and see if it starts. I have a strange feeling its a very likely solution. But who knows... Its electrical.

Same issues but no verifiable power to ECM
 

Hey guys I have the same issue posted here....followed the advice given to Randy
..however no power to ECM...any thoughts

A Dodge DRB scan tool is about $5K

Your talking about an OBDII code reader.

Checked the Engine Speed Sensor? This is what caused everything in the cab of my 98 12valve to die ... no gauges and the alternator wouldnt charge. There was also a high amp fuse under the hood that was blown ... but my ESS was definitely the major problem. On the 12 valves its mounted just behind the crank pulley at about the 10 o'clock position looking at the crank from the front of the truck

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Link to part on napa website: (just put in your zip code, select a store, then the part will show up)

Store Locator | NAPA Online

No, I haven't checked that as of yet. However did check power at the pin connectors coming from the fuse block. Everything checks except PIN #12 on blk/grey connector which according to info I read on another thread, should have 12V with key on. This has a green/black lead wire. How would I check the engine speed sensor, do I have to have the scan tool to perform this check?

If you disconnect it and most of the gauges come back to life then the speed sensor is the problem.

I did disconnect the crank position sensor and even picked up a used one from a scrap yard locally. However, no change. The engine speed sensor your mentioning is it the same device or am I looking for a different one.

Napa calls the engine speed sensor the "crankshaft sensor" part number: ECH CSS635 . Like I said, facing the engine from the front of the truck the sensor sits at 10 o'clock then the harness weaves its way towards the drivers side of the engine.

When my truck did the same thing as yours the ESS was out and there was also a high amp fuse in the under hood fuse block that was blown. Dodge was the only place I could find a replacement fuse. I would check to see if that fuse is blown. If it is replace it then try disconnecting the ESS again.

Fixing both of those solved my problems so if that doesnt fix it for you I'm out of ideas.

Yeah, so I did unplug the sensor itself, same results...gauges did not return. Exactly which fuse was blown do you remember. The reason I asked is that I have checked all fuses in both the inside block, and the block mounted on the driver side wheel well.

Id take a picture of my under hood fuse block (power distribution center aka PDC) and highlight the fuse for you except my truck is currently 6 hours away from me. If I remember correctly it is a square 200 amp fuse. If you follow the power leads into the pdc it should sit very close to where the leads enter. You should be able to see if the fuse is blown without removing it .. ie it should have a clear top.

Ok...yeah, mine is 140 amp fuse and I have tested that one, it has continuity, so I assume that it is good. I pulled my CPS (ESS) and tested for the 5V.....I'm only getting 1.15V to the plug for the sensor...any ideas on that?

Not sure about the voltage levels. Let me back up for a minute. Does your engine run with the current problems? Will it crank over? When I unplugged the ess and turned the key the wait to start light returned and the fuel shutoff solenoid snapped up. When you unplugged your ess and turned the key what happened? Also, this will sound dumb but are the batteries fully charged? When mine quit the alternator wasnt charging and both batteries went dead.

Yeah engine will run and truck will engage and drive. Brand new batteries, have bench tested alternator...been following the forums here and doing what others have done. Just got off the phone with a Dodge tech here locally. He said that with that low of voltage to the circuit that it sounds like a ground issue within the PCM itself...lol the tech asked the battery ? too....good place to start.
I did remove the ESS and turned the key, I received the exact same results No WTS light. These are the lights that come on when key is turned: WATER IN FUEL, TRANS TEMP, AIR BAG, CHECK ENGINE, BRAKE, CHECK GAUGES. They come and then go off as they normally would. The needle gauges just move the slightest bit then no reponse from them. Have double checked all relevant fuses, power supplies on the PDC, ensured 12v into PCM, and continuity to ground on all appropiate PIN connector. Verified continuity from CPS plug signal wire to pin terminal -good. Power lead continuity to plug and ground continuity to plug....all good. Tech said that you can't read the resistance on the sensor itself, although I have read in posts that it should be between 500 and 900 ohms. Yet, following what you said about the sensor. It seems that removal of the short circuited sensor allowed the PCM to power back up and supply power to the gauges, which is not happening in my case.

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I think the reason the truck will drive is that it is in "Limp Home Mode", I have read that a failure will default the truck to this and it will hold and apply the last calculated values....but not solid that is happening due to no PCM.

Isnt electrical work fun!:s: So its sounding like the ess isnt your problem .. but something is still causing the pcm to see a voltage it doesnt like. When my ess went bad it caused a short and shut everything down. When I turned the key on all of the lights you mentioned would come on and go off as normal but the engine wouldnt start. By unplugging the sensor I was able to start the engine but since the pcm wasnt getting a signal from the ess it wasnt allowing the alternator to charge and the tach didnt work. When I put the new ess in the alternator started charging and the tach worked again.

I suppose you could try replacing the ess with the junk yard piece but like I said it is sounding less and less likely that your ess is the culprit. Beyond that I guess you will need to look for loose pins in all of the pcm connections .. that and start cleaning grounds.

That's what I am starting to think as well....because I used the junkyard piece and nothing different occurred. Did any of your other gauges work with the bad ESS, I noticed you said the tach and alt, but did oil pressure, voltage and temp gauges come up?

I couldnt start my engine with the bad ess so none of the gauges worked until I unplugged it. After that when the engine started I had everything except for the tach .. the voltage gauge did work but it was reading between 8 and 12v ie the alternator wasnt charging and the voltage been read was from the batteries.

My money is on a bad PCM... same thing happened to me less than a year ago and that's what it was.

Yeah spoke with another local mechanic who dealt with this problem. He said it was the PCM as well. This PCM is not the factory, it is a reman looks to be built around '05. So I am guessing that this truck has been down this road before. According to KBailey and other postings I have read, if it involved the CPS then it should not start at all with the bad ESS (CPS) due to it being shorted out, is that correct?

know anyone with a good pcm who will let you swap to see if that fixes your problems?

great minds do think alike...so i pulled the PCM and called a local salvage yard that I know has some trucks with working 12v in truck to see if he would let me plug this one into the connectors to see if my pcm is bad....of course he didn't get the point that it wouldn't hurt his.....he was afraid I would fry his cluster..tried to explain to him that there is only signal voltage running through this circuitry. Although had a friend who is extremely well versed in electronics put a second set of eyes on it and it seems that the 5V internal regulator could be fried, because I can't prove the necessary 5V to the sensor circuitry. I'll keep everyone posted on this one.....looks like I'm on the road to a bad PCM...but got to know for sure.

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sucks that it had to be this way, but I am learning a lot bout the ole Dodge...first diesel I've owned....its a vital truck to my landscaping biz so needless to say the learning curve has had to be short and fast

I'm reading this thread because I'm having a similar problem. I did a KDP fix and after have no tach or speedo. Other gauges work, but lock-up TCC doesn't. Voltage is at 15+ volts by the gauge, which tells me no regulator.

I'm not getting any codes or CEL. Truck starts and runs fine (in fact, better than ever with the 3000 GSK, bumped timing, and #10 plate). Starts almost instantly.

I did replace the crank sensor last night with a new Cummins part. No change. I've checked all the small fuses, but not the big guys. Perhaps one of them has bit the dust.

Just looking for some insight into the problem so I can get back to driving the truck. I have driven it to work a couple days without everything working, so I know it runs well, starts and shuts down the engine.

One thing I did was to pull the fuel heater harness from mine. The fusible link was burned down and it had a bare wire shorting on the fuel pre-filter. Could that be any potential cause? Don't know when that happened, but it appears to be some time ago from the corrosion on the wires (just got the truck and am checking everything out). I also had the dash panel out to fix the heater controls and to paint the needles on the gauges. Other info is in my sig.

Thanks...

I still have a link to my original thread... Which is basicly how I found this site, and just commented on a previously made thread. But long story short, it was the PCM.

https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-val...-problems.html

Anyone have a part number or the proper term so I can look one up on the solenoids that control the grid heaters? They are the ones right below the fuse box on the driver's side fender well, under the hood. One of mine has a main stud that is loose. No fixing that, and that may be my issue.

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Found an answer... A Ford or Jeep non-grounded starter solenoid (actually a pair) will do the job. Cost is about $10 at most auto parts stores.

Autozone part number - AM433 and others.

Reason for non-grounded solenoid is that the Dodge uses grounds to energize systems and a grounded solenoid will be hot all the time.

Thank u all for the help is wae my ecm got a new ECM everything works now. All i need now is video or driagram on how 2 rebuilt a 47re transmission Thanks In advance. Can some 1 help please
:hellox:

PCM's are vin specific, meaning its programed for that truck and its vin number. Swamping them out with another truck will wipe the memory out and you will have 2 bad PCM's instead of one.

i have an 02 cummins 2nd gen 24valve with a 12 valve pump, and i know my coumputer is fried i am for sure of that, i am trying to figure out how to wire up and external regulator so it can charge can anyone help me out

47RE trans
 

I have a ATSG manual you can have. I can email it to you if you still need it.