still no start,I WILL PAY for your time!
 

I am still trying to figure out my no start problem for my ctd 12valve.this down time is keeping me from hauling things and possibly costing me more money from the jobs i could be doing.
I AM OFFERING 100 dollars to anyone who can help me fix my truck or show what is wrong and what it needs to get started.

I will give someone 30 dollars just to show up for an hour.
if you can get it started and running i will give you another 70 dollars,NO JOKE.

I am in the BREVARD county area of florida.
email via personal email for much quicker response tall3oy@yahoo

i have replaced the overflow valve,fuel pump,fuel filter,fuel lines(engine bay/from tank)
cleaned out fuel tank module...added ten gallons of fresh diesel.cleaned fuel bowl.
STILL NO START......argggggggggggggggggggggg
put in fuel guage...goes up to 22psi then to about 10 back upt to 22psi then back to 10psi


100 bux no joke!

10 psi aint gonna get it done on a 12v if i remember correctly, you should be seeing like 30-40 psi of fuel pressure...

get someone to help you.............first off crack all (if possible) injector lines at the head, then get yer air compressor and a couple rags around the hose to help seal off the air hose into the fuel tank fill hole, then while you are cranking yer truck over have yer buddy blow the tank up with air to help force feed yer system, IF you can get fuel to feed the IP then it will take over and pressure up the injector lines

is there fuel getting to the injectors? does it smoke white while turning over? with your fuel press going up and down what is happening when it does that (noises) i know you are just cranking the engine over have you primed the system the whole way? is there fuel at the injection pump? is there fuel coming out of the injection pump? youo may have gotten a bad lift pump sometimes that happens did you look at the cam lobe when you pulled the old lift pump off is it worn badly?

Sounds like it is sucking air and needs the injector lines cracked to assist with the first start.

I would not worry about the pressure your seeing right now until you get the truck running and see what it has at an idle and at wide open throttle.Make sure you have some type of dampening valve in the fuel pressure line or it will pulse so bad you may not get an accurate fuel pressure reading.

I had this same problem when I replaced the rotted fuel lines on my friends truck. I cranked it and it would try to start and then die off. Open all the injectors and pump the hell out of the primer and keep pumping while somebody cranks the truck over and holds their foot to the floor. Then start tightening the injectors starting at the one towards the front of the truck and going back when the bubbles stop coming out of them. Keep cranking and holding foot to floor even after it starts this should keep it running even while being badly airbound. Be prepared for a cloud of smoke the size of a small building, but it should get your truck running.

i have the fuel lines after the delivery valves opened.
i put in the old overflow valve in and the guage wont go past 10psi
with the new one it goes to 22psi then back to 10 then up to 22 again when I prime.

So i should have someone prime while i crank?
how long should i crank it?
seems like 30 seconds is what is recommended for the starter at most.

a guy recommended seeing if the torque plate and rod are working?
is thier a link or a write up on this injector pump.
this things seem way to fickle.

i loosen the supply line at the injector pump and prime...i can see fuel squirting out.
i loosent the overflow valve and prime i can see fuel squirting out.

i have bled at the housing till i just see fuel and no bubbles.
i have cranked while manualy holding the shutoff arm up.

i dont see fuel squirting at the delivery valves...should i move the lines so i can see in the dvalves?and look for bubbles?
i had the fuel hose sucking from a jar and it was sucking it down really well,but not as much in the same time span while cranking.

now i had someone come over and hook the fuel line back up and crank and crank and crank
and still no start...

sounds like you are primed to the pump then

So are you primed right up to the injectors?

Im not sure if this is possible but i thought i heard or read about this somewhere else, are you sure you have the delivery valves in the right way and not upside down...

it might be ur fuel shutoff silnoid has shot craps on you.

I did everything right on mine, and it wound up being that my timing slipped WAY slow. I'd give that a try. and post in your regional section offering BBQ and beer, not cash.

took off solonoid arm and have manually lifted the shutoff valve.had someone hold while cranking and STILL no fuel coming out from delivery valves.

talked to another 12 valve owner and said something about a vacuum line being cracked around afc that alows fuel to get to injection pump...a governor that works on vacuum of some sort.

at any rate looks like i need to do more reading.these things just seems way to fickle.got an 84 mercedes with 315k on it and starts in a second when cold(still pretty warm in FL though).the ctd used to start really fast too,the a few weeks ago got longer and longer to crank.till finally after have a really nice strong ride....not starting.


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this has crossed my mind too.although it ran strong the last time it ran.I ran it down the highway too and i ran it for about a half hour.i did the KDP mod in the first few months i got the truck and i never checked the injector pump nut/bolt/screw?.it looks like the previous owner didnt do anything but oil changes to this truck.

what did it do, or what did u do to it just before it died. were u driving and it quit, or were u adding stuff to it and it quit then, or did u just shut it off and it quit? good luck figurin it out :U:

Have you checked for spraying fuel at the injectors?

Have you been into the tank at all?

How much fuel do you have in the tank? Im thinking you should have at least 5 gallons.

from reafing ur other thread now, if u had gunk in ur tank from the bio when u dropped it, u might have a DV sticking from the bio. idk if thats possible, but worth a check to see :U:

i tried taking off one of the delivery valves and then was told i need to take something else out to take it out.i am not sure what kind of wrench i need?anybody know what it is?

was also told about vacuum line next to intake manifold and afc being made of plastic and leaking...?anyone heard of this?

the truck was running fine once started ,but was taking longer than normal to start,never died on me.ran for 30 minutes on highway and when parked havent gotten it started since.been over two weeks now......uhg

i put the new overflow valve in and when i prime it the pressure goes up to 30 psi and wont go back down until i stop priming.....before it would climb to 22 and then release.

any websites about taking apart and rebuilding injector pumps would be appreciated!

Delivery valve removal requires a special splined socket.

Forget about doing the Injector pump yourself. This is not changing a tire - its specialzed work and you want someone with experience working on it. Some things are best left to the experts.

you can change the DVs but anything more than that i wouldnt get into

its actually a boost line that goes from the mani to the afc which regulates fueling in relation to boost. don't think thats your problem tho. :argh:

If thier is a leak in the line that goes from the afc to the intake manifold could it cause a problem?

i tried taking out one of the delivery valves without removing the part that you take a socket to get the middle part out.I got it about a quarter of an inch up.i put it back in and it seemed to seat fine.DID i just screw the pump or delivery valve?Is it possible to help the delivery valve if something is gumming them up by doing that?

I would not be messing around with the pump. I do not believe the delivery valves is the problem here.

If you removed the 2 14mm hold down nuts and raised the barrel, the balance between the assemblies is now uneven. The pump will need to be removed and balanced on a stand. The only way to remove the delivery valve is to remove the delivery valve holder which requires the splined socket. Did you get a chance to mark the camshaft nose and see if it was indeed turning during cranking?

oh oh...now you can have the pump looked at to see if it was the problem or not.

live and learn

i plan on marking the camshaft nose tommorow.
I had a guy come over and tell me to lift the plunger then prying on it up he gets a call on phone that said i couldnt remove without socket tool.i should have just kept reading instead of asking just anybody to play with my motor.should have know by the heavy chrome wheels and no fuel guage he knew nothing.I just want to get my truck moving and making money again.
I lifted the delivery valve up about a quarter inch and put it back down again.It was the Dvalve closest to the gear case.i have cranked the engine over after doing this...

anybody got some pics or diagrams of the injection pump?

here ya go

https://www.dieselbombers.com/12-val...ay-photos.html

This might be of some use for those interested.

no it would not, this would not come into effect till the turbo starts to spool, would not have anything to do with starting or idle

heres a link to check if timing has slipped

http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ack-stock.html

good news is; the BOI will stay the same as he didnt do anythign witht eh shims below the barrel; bad news is that fueling may be unbalanced now. if the didnt rotate the barrel and lined up the old track marks he may be close enough to finish trouble shooting before he does have to have the pump put on the bench.

as for the owner; i know you'd like to get the truck running; but offering money to every yahoo can be a dangerous and expensive thing. so far you've experienced what this site is so good for... helpin eachother and most of the time the guys on here can get ya thru what you're workin on FREE.

i checked to see if the injector pump gear was slipping.i marked the gear and nut and It doesnt look like it is.
IS thier a number to call where i can get a qualified tech to help me with this CTD?




as for the owner; i know you'd like to get the truck running; but offering money to every yahoo can be a dangerous and expensive thing. so far you've experienced what this site is so good for... helpin eachother and most of the time the guys on here can get ya thru what you're workin on FREE.[/QUOTE]

Where are you? Your almost at the point where you have to bring in some professional help. I dont know where you could call to talk to a "qualified tech". Never seen anything like that.

We can only diagnose and help so much over the internet.

Without being there with you and seeing exactly what is happening, my advice can only go so far.

not just your advice: everyones advice. there's a number of guys on here that could probably get ya set up in an afternoons time if they were close enough. i'm going to re-read through everything and see if something "clicks"

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have you put pressure on the accelerator pedal while cranking? if your idle adjustment is wayyy low your truck wont even think of starting; if the rack is drawn back far enough idk if it'll even push fuel as port closure really doesnt exist if the plunger is rotated to such a shallow point in the helix that the relief port is never covered up in order to create pressure.

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another thing to check; the DV's are one way check valves... this should allow relatively low pressured fuel to flow out the pump and past the DV. pressurize the fuel system and rotate the engine by hand. fuel should actually flow freely as it spills into the chamber upon port opening. pressurizing the whole fuel system to say... a regulated 7 psi would greatly help in this. while rotating the fuel should be displaced and shot out the DV. if this doesn't happen manually move the governor arm to move the rack, this'll delay port opening and increase the effective stroke of the plunger (same thing as putting slight pressure on the accelerator)