Egts still warm
 

Installed my killer b finally and still have the hot egts. Must just be the tire size now (37s) and 7in lift? With 3.54 gear ratio.

Where's your fuel plate set at? That's your egt control.

#0 plate pushed all the way up. Could my pre boost fueling screw be cranked to far too much fuel before boost.

Pull the plate back. That's your full fuel setting. In theory you should beable to mat it and stay in it and the egts will level off and stay at your desired heat. Hopefully around 1600 or under. Pre boost is just wasted fuel and it will cause it to heat up a little sooner just like star wheel. But the plate is final egt/fuel. Start there. Your smoke screw is just to light the turbo, when set properly there should be minimal pre boost smoke

I will be losing power then if I set the fuel plate back.

Just checked and I have my Pyro tapped before the turbo.

It's supposed to be tapped before the turbo, ideally on the back 3 cylinders. And no you won't, you can't use all the fuel because your getting too hot. You wouldn't tow, or race or anything over 1600 degrees unless you have a built race engine so why would you need more fuel. Smoke and fuel is not power. Properly burnt fuel is power. 12 valves take a lot more tuning then throwing in a 0 plate full forward and cranking the star wheel. The plate is there for a reason. To control egt's. If you want better tunability get afc live. You will beable to fine tune it to your liking from the cab. You also likely need more timing. Stock timing and dumping fuel won't get you that far.

Did not like how the motor ran with advanced timing and I have fine tuned it but now it's hotter with this turbo... wide open I hit 1400 not bad and the truck is pretty smokeless when driving it does not poor neither would I let it. I just don't like cruising at 950

Oh well if it's just your cruising egts it may be your gearing is a bit off like you said. Should be close to 2000 rpm at cruising speed and that should help your egts.

I am 1900rpms at about 73mph at 6 or 7 pounds of boost

That's an afc adjustment. Try fiddling with It a bit. Should be a bit cooler around that rpm. What's your timing at?

Your gearing definitely could be better though. I think that's a fair part of it probably close to 100f.

Stock timing for a 96 so I think its around 14 or something like that.

I think it's lower then that. But even still Id suggest going up a bit to at least 16 or so, your studded and depending on your weather conditions you could go as high as around 20 and run it in winter. It will improve power, mileage, egts. You won't make much power at low timing. If it runs weird with timing you must have other issues. The only thing that should change is the sound and that's more around the 20 mark.

Depending on where you live and how cold it has to start, I wouldn't go above 16...

Just me

I live in winnipeg Manitoba Canada. There is no where in America other than Alaska that gets colder then here. Buddies truck runs 20.5 degrees of timing. If you plug it in at night and have a grid heater you will be fine. If you've taken the grid heater out then Ya it will have Trouble starting.

I live in Prince Albert, Saskatchewan, Canada.
I feel your pain. (How but this year though hey?!)
Fun fact: I'll be in Winnipeg for the 2 jets games at the end of december 😃.

I know a HD tech who runs his own shop in Saskatoon and worked at Cummins western Canada for quite a while. They would set the 12v at 15-17. More than that and guys started complaining.
The independent shop I get a fair few parts from here in P.A. says the same.

If I had something like a webasto/Espar I'd say go hard.

What would you guys think of a mishmoto intercooler for lowering egts.

I want to do delivery valves but won't happen with this level of egts now.

Intercooler will help. But timing will likely help more. Plus help in so many other ways. You have all those parts + stock timing. It's not really how it's done. At the very least bump the timing a bit. To like 16 or 17. It's basically free hp. We made almost 60hp just from a 3 degree timing change and a set of sac injectors vs vco. Your industrial injectors might not be helping either, they are likely vco. And like most industrial parts they are low buck/ technology with a price tag. Oh your canadian slim! Well you know the pain then. I can see my buddy having some issues leaving it not plugged in but plugged in with the heater I think the 20.5 will work out all right.

Well I moved my #0 plate to the middle now and the egts seem a tad hotter even.. I'm lost. Now I'm going to pull the plate all the way back and then if nothing I will put it back how ut was in the first place and buy an intercooler I'm thinking afe or mishimoto

Anyone?

Plate position shouldn't affect cruising egt. Just afc tuning for under boost fueling.an intercooler will help. How much not sure. Haven't compared stock to aftermarket yet. But 1200 part vs 50 dollar timing tool and an hour of work will likely result in more cooling. Stock timing and adding fuel and tuning and a slower spooling turbo is gonna result in higher egt's.

Idk I am not to happy about having tp advance timing. So I should play with the starwheel?

I don't remember reading what you have fir an exhaust system. . . What is it?

And why is that? It's how to properly tune it. If you plan to add performance/ fuel / air timing should/ needs to be propotanite. Fortunately in diesels the detrimental effects of improper tuning isn't majorly destructive to the engine if you monitor it properly. But your loosing performance and potential. You wouldn't not time a gasoline vehicle with a turbo and modifying from stock. You'd grenade the engine. Your truck with injectors, 4gsk, and a turbo as well as tuning should be at least 16. Plus you have studs so there's no chance of head gasket issues. Id suggest a little higher since you can. Everything else is just throwing parts at an improperly tuned truck in my opinion. And it will never perform up to the standard you will probably hold it to. If you have absolutely everything to make 450hp you will likely fall 100hp or more short because your lack of timing. Can you mask your egt problem with a 1200$ intercooler. Ya a bit. But a 50$ timing tool will do the same if not more. Plus give you a performance and milage bump.

I agree. Intercooler is masking the issue.

5in exhaust to 7in stack... so im good their. When I bought the truck 6 years ago the timing was advanced and honestly I thought it ran like absolute trash.. so yes, I am afraid to advance timing because of that.

By the sound or what? The only thing timing changes is sound. If you keep it under 20 degrees it shouldn't sound too much like a tractor. You can not time it. But you will never achieve a proper running truck. If it runs weird when timed then you probably have pump issues or something. Your asking how to get your egts down and you've also asked about your hp. This is the advice every one who knows 12v or any other engine for that matter will give you. Can you spend 2000$ or intercooler a and piping and intake horns and get a small egt drop. But it will never perform to the equivalent to any other similar truck. They all have timing. Other than maybe slims who's a fully stock truck. Every one on here has at least 16 degrees. Toss money at it for a small egt drop. It's your money. But the proper thing to do is time it, and continue on the process of tuning and modifications. But with 12 degrees of timing you will never achieve the power you expect. Your likely around 300 right now without timing. And you can throw all the fuel and air at it and it will never gain what you want because there's no timing.

I'll look into advancing it to 16. How do I truly know how many degrees I have gone and how hard is it to do with everything thing on and in the truck. Can the pre-boost screw in the back of the afc housing lower egts or will it lower it and steal power.

Just saw that my pre boost fueling screw has never been touched, so with all these mods should I turn that in back it out or just not touch it.

It will do both if you set it one way or the other.

If you are puking black, you aren't getting any extra power. Just wasting fuel

so im thinking turning it down will not do much. The truck is kind of hard to blow a big puff since the turbo, much harder than stock one but does not bother me at all I do not like smoke.

The pre boost is pre boost only so no affect on cruising egt. Having it properly tuned will make the turbo light faster but too little or too much will cause it to smoke. if it has good response from 0 boost Id leave it. I usually back them all te way out them start by setting it a 1/8 of a turn at a time until it start to smoke pre boost and watch your throttle response. And the timing tool if you buy one comes with a whole instructions and charts and what not

Okay I'll probaly advance the timing but we're I looked for the 96-98 12v the stock timing is 14 already.. really think 2 degrees for all thst work would do much.

Don't think like that.

Think of it as a percentage. Right now, you're at 13 (stock is I think 13 or 12.5 on my truck anyway, a 95 auto).

So if you go up to, say, 16, that's 3 more. 3 is nearly 25% of 13.
So you're advancing the fuel timing nearly 25% over stock.

That's a frickload, really. It'll make a big difference.

But only up top I'll feel the power? While it cuts off torque curve.

Think of it this way:
Are you only advancing the timing at the top of the curve?

Up until you get to an undriveable point, it'll help the whole band

At that low of timing all it will do is improve. Once you get over 20 is where it's better for high end power. I personally wouldn't both with 16 degrees. Since you have studs Id go at least 18 ish. Get your times worth out of it.

I was thinking of 17 degrees with .024 dvs or ddps magic ones and still a intercooler.