wont start without starting fluid, dies under 1k
 

Hey guys first post so hopefully i'm in the right section. My 12v cummins is fairly stock under the hood, anyways my problems began with falling off idle. I kept raising it to try to keep her running. with my idle at around 1100 it was obvious i have an issue. Soon after I went out to fire her up and it was a no go... just cranks. First I checked the shutoff solenoid and its functioning properly. Then I changed a fuel filter, Im running bio diesel and fuel filters have been my only issue from that. Filter made no difference. So i hit it with starting fluid ( which i hate to do and know I should not keep doing it) anyways it will start on starting fluid and even with the idle so high it still falls off idle. Pedal is stiffer as if no boost to the AFC, and it runs soft as hell. Only pushes 10-15 psi tops. I can normally push 30+ with my hx35. I dont have a fuel pressure gauge ATM but that will be my next step. I have a raptor fuel pump that seems to be pumping like normal. I found that my small plastic boost line that runs under the dash was melted and broken by falling on the exhaust housing and have since fixed it. no help. still wont start. I read some other forms and checked my overflow valve. seems that the balls moves freely and its functioning. Cold or hot still wont start off the starter. What blows my mind is it will bump start. Any help would be appreciated, needless to say Im stumped.

Have you checked your fuel screen in the Lift pump ?

DO NOT USE EATHER AGAIN !!!! blow up your intake grid heater ( Obviously ).. u know that.

I would also recommend a Tork tec like in this link ..

Larryb - ADJUSTABLE Overflow Valve for Dodge Cummins Diesel with Bosch P7100, 94-98.5

I installed one and even at 12* ambient temps all night and not allowing grid heaters .. I litterly can bump the starter and she fires right off .. heater kicks in after its running of course.

Also ... when was the last time you had the IP timing checked ?
Low power and low boost all can be fuel or timing related.

I put a fuel pressure gauge off the second inlet of my P pump today, Im getting around 15lb to the pump not running.

And I do need to check timing but this was a very sudden change, timing shouldnt slip so quick should it?

15 is WAAAAYYY to low .. u need 30psi AT LEAST!!!

that's your issue for sure .. no fuel pressure .. a VP44 would be ok with that but a P-Pump needs more pressure

yes u timing could have slipped suddenly .. that's usually how it happens

Damn well looks like im in the market for a new fuel pump. You Recommend fass? My buddy gets a discount on those. Im not sure I want another Raptor :argh: . Any of them hold up to bio?

just a good mechanical unit will be fine to over 400hp .. and I'm sure your not there yet ..

I recommend o a kit like this .. as I just replaced mine as well and this kit made it a simple install over all ..

Larryb - Dodge Cummins 94-98.5 Lift Transfer pump, 12 valve

I would also recommend deleting your fuel heater if you haven't done so already :tu:

Mechanical over the electric for bio? Im getting A good OFV first to make sure that isnt where all my fuel is going. You know how many lb I should be able to get out of my Raptor 150? Thanks for all the help BTW :c:

I have nearly 300 hp and I have several guys running B20 as I do as well ... we all run a mechanical pump .. not one electronic pump .

that said ... I trust the mechanical pump further than the electronic pumps .. and the typically the electric pumps whip the fuel .. if there is any air in that fuel it only gets worse :tu: