Are my expectations to high???
 

Recently purchased a 95 ram 2500 12v cummins, changed 160 injectors to 215, 3000 gsk kit, new lift pump, number 10 fuel plate, adjustable ofv, and still I dont think Im getting the power I should. Am I missing something. Ive been reading this forum for the last 3 months and speaking with the vendors, have done what I thought I should but,.. everyone I read about on here claims night & day difference with fuel plate and springs alone. Ive done more and dont see any notable difference. HELP what am I missing???
also on ofv I had to turn it all the way shut just to get 23 psi. that being said I before I got the ofv i pinched off the over flow line and pressure bottomed out my guage had to turn the truck off??? Dont get it.

with the ofv shut you should have MORE than enough fuel pressure .. if not your lift pump isnt putting out the pressure/volume ... and that will make the Engine fall on its ass quick ..

yep def a fuel pressure issue if all your getting is 23psi. buddy with nearly the same truck as yours just an he351cw and a 4gsk kit ran a 13.4 or 6? cant quite remeber last onth that puts him just over 400hp. you should be pretty close to that.

I put vice grips on the over flow line and the psi went off the gauge. Had to turn the truck off. How is it a fuel pressure issue?

Dunno, but in your few months lurking here you never heard me say a GSK and a fuel plate made a night and day difference. You've said nothing about your transmission, so everything I'm about to say is clarified by the fact that I'm assuming you have a bone stock 47RH slushbox:

Springs, no plate, the AFC all the way forward and a built transmission (the most important player in that scenario) are noticeably stronger than stock, but it's still trying to push a (dirty) seven thousand pound sausage through the air. Honestly, given the choice between

A) a built trans with the stock plate and AFC both full forward, and
B) a stock trans with any # plate and a GSK...

I'll take the stock pump adjusted for free and a built trans any day of the week.

As it now sits (custom sticks, custom turbo, trans, springs, head work, etc- thou$and$ more than the truck is worth invested in it) my truck is much faster than stock; but I'm not going to go out and pick a fight with a Hyabusa. Anyone who tells you that you can swap some relatively cheap parts, turn some screws and then go out and embarrass Corvettes is blowing smoke up your ass... and I don't mean rolling coal.
Or maybe I do, because rolling coal =/= doing something right in the performance dept., but I digress. Regardless, given the info you've supplied, I'm going to say your conversation opener is spot on: your expectations are too high. With some knowledge you can make it significantly better than stock. With some knowledge and money, you can make it pretty quick (for what it is) and efficient (for what it is) but you can't make it what it ain't. With knowledge and a ridiculous amount of money, you can make it genuinely fast by almost any standard, but it isn't going to be something you want to drive every day, and anyone who says different is [rolling coal right up your ass] lying about their "supertruck". It is what it is. But I think you have two issues going on here, and I've only addressed one of them. Do you have a fuel pressure issue? Maybe. I have no idea, but I'm not sure we're all on the same page yet.

dammit

i have a jasper built 47rh trans with about 12000 miles on it . it feels good though,i mean good shifts. it doesnt rolllll into gear. i dropped the pan to check the magnet & change the fluid. magnet had minimal stuck to it. cleanest i ever saw actually. i also have a lock up switch. my goal is to just have a well rounded truck. pull what i ask it"with in reason" and get the milage i hear about....the guy i bought it from pulled a 28 foot travel trailer through hills of Colorado.i saw pics. i also bought the timing kit and moved the timing to 16.5 . i hope this sheds more light on my situation . i appreciate your responses and your feedback. i used a pressure gauge snubber to check fuel pressure,along with 3 different gauges . and again its a new lift pump. let me know what you think, thanks

Its also not about going fast ....... My truck has a 215 in a 180 truck .. yes I can kill ls3's from light to light ... but i also have 4K just in go fast ( mostly in trans work ) .. of course having 4.10's is nice too ..

I think you should watch this viedo to give you more perspective on just how to tune your truck ... adn YES it taught me something ... I admit , I dont know it all

this helps most people , gain some understanding about how it works there fore you will understand how to tune better and mmore effectivly

i guess i read your post wrong. your fuel pressure spikes high as it should. then next i would go to how did you install the govoner springs? if you install the springs with minimal tension the truck wont rev out like it shoulf. it will have a dead pedal. i take them down initial plus 6 clicks.

Awesome video 4x4!

wish it was me that made the vid ... at least we can all kinda go , OOOHHHHhhhh now i understand .... thats what i did nearly the entire viedo ..LOL

I can't say there was anything particularly new for me in there, I've just never seen it presented so perfectly. What has taken me hours of reading, looking at pictures and schematics and talking to tuners to still rack my brains to understand, he just explained in twenty five minutes so that any school kid could get it without even thinking hard. I wish I'd seen that years ago, there are quite a few hours of my life I could have spent doing something else, not to mention understood it right from the get-go. That blows any explanation of how the p-pump works that I've ever seen right out of the water.

LOL... Hear ya there .. more or less had the understanding... just helps to get a real mental picture .. and viedo is good too ... lol

I've read some write-ups I thought were great, and seen some cutaway pictures I thought were helpful, but I just realized that they're all... more or less shit compared to that video. He maybe could have honed it down to be a little shorter with more prep/practice running through it before making it, but seriously, it's fantastic.

yup, Agree

Very well done video.

video was very informative, i saw it a while back....it was long and i didnt care cuz who cared about that when im tryin to install gsk!! shoulda payed more attention then i might be a little bit further along than i am. Turbo 2332 had the most usable info, thank you sir. no rpm! i actually thought about snugin the springs up a while back, and did. only one click though. brought it up with the vendor i got the kit from and he didnt think much of it. any how i snugged em up and noticed a difference gunna go 2 more clicks then the three i just did. THAT being said, couldnt have i just put a few clicks on the ones that were in there t begin with?? also, in the video he showed how a 215 pump has notches for more fuel...mine is a 160. is my engine just as buildable as a 215 from factory?? ok ,one more question. where is the stock position of my fuel plate?? so far nobody seems to know. im told im supose to put my #10 fuel plate at stock setting??... i have changed my mental filtering setting recently,i no longer look at, read, or listen to the info, ideas or suggestions the same way i did when i first saw the video in this thread. might not use it today, but tomorrow.....any way thank you for spending your time shearing some of what you know with me

The stock fuel plate comes fulley slid back ..

As for the 3 clicks ?? r u refering to the star wheel ? Gov springs shouldnt click .. not my exp. any ways ...

and Yes the 160 pump is buildable , and can make great power ... will need DV's, and some injectors, afc mods and you can make some great power ..

Mine wasn't slid all the way back. Hm.

there is no stock setting as all pumps have many bench settings and all respond differently when initially set-up. generally they are pretty close to in the middle. ide personally slide a #10 full forward as it isnt an aggressive plate.

yes you could have tightened up te stock springs but you would have only gained a few extra rpms. my 4ks are shimmed out with stock spacers to get just a little more. the tighter you go the poorer idle quality you will have because you are compressing the big idle spring more than what it should be. again go initial click plus 6. this in normally as tight as you can phsically go. i use a quarter with a noth filed out to set the tension on the 4 sided nut that CLICKS when it rolls to the next flat. go as tight as you can go you wont be upset with the outcome. just done break an ear off the quarter you just filed or you will be sad... lol

a 160 pump has nothing to do with the engine itself. they are the same engines. the 215 pumps can support more HP but this is because of camshaft design for the most part. a 160 175 and 180 pump can be built to do absolutly whatever you want mild to wild. leave it a 160 until you want 800+ HP then get out your wallet.

LOL, yeah 800+ ... Your gonna need a bigger wallet for all that money to fly out of ..