holding the pedal...
 

hello all, im having some issues with my 96 cummins, yesterday i drove it about 10 miles to some see some family, on my way home someone pulled out in front of me and when i let out of the throttle the truck stalled, got out and checked to see if the shutoff was the culprit, but it was working fine, got back in pushed the pedal down about 1/8 inch she started and ran, but as soon as i let out of it she stalled again, same issue all the way home about 10 miles, as long as i keep the pedal down just a little bit it will run, what can cause this? the day before it would regularly hold about 700 rpm on the dash when warmed up, and about 500 when cold (20 degrees outside),

Your idle screw is not set correctly.... 850 in gear with a\c on ... 900/925 idle

how do you adjust that? and they can just drop off without warning?

Back of IP ... 10mm wrench .... Its kinda hidden ... But it's there

and yes they can back off once the jam nut comes loose

I have to adjust mine twice a year just from the seasonal temperature changes.

850/900? Really? That seems really freaking high. Mine idles at 800 in neutral, and everyone is always asking me why my engine is racing.

Attachment 33284

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

...and here's the low idle adjustment screw on the back of the pump:

Attachment 33285

im guessing turning it out raises the idle?

Depends on which direction you turn it.

Mine idles just under 750 in Drive, IMO it's perfect.

Ahh ... I was close ... Mine idles @ 900 in gear ... :c:

Then shutting it off sounds about as healthy as stopping a bicycle by tossing a stick in the spokes.

lol Naw, it ain't that bad.

Mine sounds just fine .... Its only 50 rpms difference ....

Between 900 and under 750?

:humm:

Close enough ..:c:

I had my last truck do that to me a couple times in traffic. its the Idle screw, just make sure when you tighten it back down to do it pretty dogon snug. It can and will back out on ya if you dont. Best of Luck!

update, i finally got a nice day and tried setting it, "tried" being the key word, i adjusted it 3 times, bringing it up to around 900 on the dash, took it out for a test each time and within a couple blocks it would go back to stalling when i let off the pedal, :argh:

have make sure the jam nut sis nice and tight ... use some blue loc-tite on it if you need to ... Clean it with some brake cleaner ( non chlorinated so it dries up ) , and then put some blue loc-tite on er and set it and allow it to sit for a bit .. the warmth will cure it ..:tu:

+1 for the blue locktite

ok another update, i tried the blue locktite, no avail the screw isnt backing off, i took it over to stateline diesel in edwardsburg mi to have them check it out, they replaced the overflow valve, sending unit, and reset the timing on the pump, but now when it idles right it now ildes at 1250, but goes up and down, could this be a govenor spring issue below is a video of what it does.


note im not making the truck idle up and down, im only tapping the fuel to show it stalling

Woah, I'm out. I would have said OFV. It's almost like your idle is set way high and the fuel shut of solenoid isn't fully engaging, but I've never actually seen that happen so I wouldn't really know. Hm.

Had a truck do that a few years back. Customer had tried washers instead of a gsk kit and in the process bent the studs for the governor spring retainers. Acted identically.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

Have to agree with manonbroke, lefty loose will screw out bolt and increase idle. A touch of loc tite BLUE will keep it there with the lock nut snug!

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

a touch of loc tite blue & jamnut will hold it till you adjust it the next time!
sorry bout the repeat, did'nt scrol down far enough

would it be worthwhile to change out the gov springs? they want upwards of 2000 to rebuild the pump.

I think they just want to rebuild a pump and get paid.

ill agree on that i just spent 1200, getting the other work done there

I can't believe they did $1200 worth of work and gave it back to you running that way.
Sounds like the kind of bullshit I expect from a stealership.

I wouldn't have the pump rebuilt. I'd do some exploratory surgery and check the governor assembly. It may require pump work (the issue your experiencing is definitely an internal pump issue). But don't think I'd let a shop that charged you that much without providing results do the work. A couple hours or so wouldn't surprise me but 1200 and worse than it came in...no thanks.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

Diesel Injection Service, the 2000 was going to be put on top of the 1200, i told them exactly what was happening when i took it in. kinda irked me to get it back this way considering that they said it would be fixed for 1300, but what kinda bugs me is dont you have to take the pump off the truck to set the timing? shouldn't they have checked everything out then?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

it is running better than when it went in, but still stalling, i will say going down the road at any speed feels better than before, it would just be nice if i didnt have to double pedal the damn thing lol

I can't say if they charged fairly because I don't know what they actually did. I know if I'm talking to a customer that I'll indicate "this is part of your problem? It may not be all of it". I actually loose some customers doing so but we can't know it all and get it right every time!
The pump is timed on the truck. To know what's really going on it would need to go on the bench. By checking the governor and idle springs you can gain direction but it still may require a bench run. has anyone messed with the governors?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

no the only part of the pump that has been touched is the afc and fuel plate

service statements

2 of 2 when i called them originally they said it sounds like an internal problem i wanted them to bench the pump from the start and make sure

Only issue I see is the labor to change the overflow valve is off the charts. That's a 15-20 minute job. Otherwise looks like they've done you right.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

i was thinking the same thing on the overflow valve, i was reading up on here about it and it sounded like a super simple task

Service writers are taught to balance labor and parts 60L to 40p. He may have seen that without modification it's hard to remove the valve and charged book for pulling the pump. So he didn't have to modify the truck and got his labor in one shot.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

but if they pulled the pump wouldnt they have bench tested?

Most likely not. Do they have a pump shop on site?

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

yes they do,

Better run real good then .... :s:

We pull pumps all the time and don't send them to be benched but most don't have driveability issues and I don't have a bench lol. I do think in this case they would bench it and check governors. If they didn't pull it I'm really curious about that labor bill.

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2