fuel plate
 

first off the truck is a 97 auto,
I want to know what you guys think is a good fuel plate for a street truck with the following future mods. Im looking to make good power but i want to keep the egt's in a good range, i know the egts are controlled by my right foot but what do you all recommend.

the truck has stock turbo and injectors, i probably wont change gov springs because i dont really need to fuel right up to 3000rpm or past. im looking for good low end power

(future mods)
-built trans
-gauges
-banks big head adjustable waste gate(gonna run about 30psi)
-banks twin ram air horn
-4" turbo back exhaust
-3 pc exhaust manifold
-afe stage 2 cai(already installed)


i also have read alot about the mods i am considering, even though the banks twin ram is crazy expensive i like the idea of what it does and how it makes the motor run more efficiently.

You have some options in front of you.
First of all, your trans is only rated for 250hp stock. You will want at least a billet single disk TC, and a valve body from Goerend transmissions.

Fuel plate modifications make a HUGE difference.
Grind your stock fuel plate down to a zero. Move both the fuel plate, and the afc housing all the way forward (towards the front of the truck), and you will definitely be able to feel the power gains.

If you're really worried about egt's get a gauge, but you can do this number without gauges and be ok if you're not towing all day every day. Just keep the lugging to a minimum.

You can also crank the star wheels up a few clicks, I just did 4 clicks on mine.
After that I recommend getting a boost elbow, and 3k or 4k gsk.

Thanks for the reply, im planning on rebuilding my transmission tougher first before i even start doing these fuel mods. what would the difference be in egts or power on the low end between a #0 and a #10

I'm just throw this in,but I think the twin air ram is WAY over priced,you can go get an aFe air horn for $150-200 cheaper and it pretty much does the same thing!I was considering it to,but after a couple hours to the benefits of the twin ram air and it did the same thing as any other!:c:

your silly if you want to make power and not install gov springs. by far and away best bang for the buck on these trucks HANDS DOWN. period

#6 fuel plate and i run a twin ram and so a reduction in smoke and approx 50* lower egts

Pulled 30ft goose neck with concrete forms 50 miles. with just no plate, and bhaf. Made the old Dodge work for it. The weekend before I returned them I installed 4k gsk. couldn't tell the trailer was back there. Amazed on the difference $225 made (60# valve springs and GSK)

Here's what you need, a #10 fuel plate, 3000 gsk, a boost elbow, gauges; boost, EGT, and tranny temp. All that and you will have a truck that's reliable with good power, and your egts won't be sky high.

I agree ... but go 4K springs .. and tune appropiatly .. :tu:

(future mods)
-built trans -- billet single, shift kit and gm conversion solenoid with new server, transducer etc or valvebody
-gauges -start at about $300
Too expensive- boost elbow for $20-banks big head adjustable waste gate(gonna run about 30psi)
Tunnel ram is about $250----banks twin ram air horn
unless you upgrade your turbo the biggest restriction is in the exhaust housing (about 2" opening)-4" turbo back exhaust unless its rusted out or you wnat a different sound there is no real benefit
-3 pc exhaust manifold-- no power benefit. if yours is cracked by all means replace it. posssible reduction in egt by about 50*
-afe stage 2 cai(already installed)


s300 turbo with wastegate starts about $1100

If you have over 150k miles you will see some gains by getting yours rebuilt or going to a new set. Its cheap to upgrade a little here for more power.

I think my gSk is installed wrong though. Make sure you get it done right