fuel plate
 

first off the truck is a 97 auto,
I want to know what you guys think is a good fuel plate for a street truck with the following future mods. Im looking to make good power but i want to keep the egt's in a good range, i know the egts are controlled by my right foot but what do you all recommend.

the truck has stock turbo and injectors, i probably wont change gov springs because i dont really need to fuel right up to 3000rpm or past. im looking for good low end power

(future mods)
-built trans
-gauges
-banks big head adjustable waste gate(gonna run about 30psi)
-banks twin ram air horn
-4" turbo back exhaust
-3 pc exhaust manifold
-afe stage 2 cai(already installed)


i also have read alot about the mods i am considering, even though the banks twin ram is crazy expensive i like the idea of what it does and how it makes the motor run more efficiently.

You have some options in front of you.
First of all, your trans is only rated for 250hp stock. You will want at least a billet single disk TC, and a valve body from Goerend transmissions.

Fuel plate modifications make a HUGE difference.
Grind your stock fuel plate down to a zero. Move both the fuel plate, and the afc housing all the way forward (towards the front of the truck), and you will definitely be able to feel the power gains.

If you're really worried about egt's get a gauge, but you can do this number without gauges and be ok if you're not towing all day every day. Just keep the lugging to a minimum.

You can also crank the star wheels up a few clicks, I just did 4 clicks on mine.
After that I recommend getting a boost elbow, and 3k or 4k gsk.

Thanks for the reply, im planning on rebuilding my transmission tougher first before i even start doing these fuel mods. what would the difference be in egts or power on the low end between a #0 and a #10

I'm just throw this in,but I think the twin air ram is WAY over priced,you can go get an aFe air horn for $150-200 cheaper and it pretty much does the same thing!I was considering it to,but after a couple hours to the benefits of the twin ram air and it did the same thing as any other!:c:

your silly if you want to make power and not install gov springs. by far and away best bang for the buck on these trucks HANDS DOWN. period

#6 fuel plate and i run a twin ram and so a reduction in smoke and approx 50* lower egts

Pulled 30ft goose neck with concrete forms 50 miles. with just no plate, and bhaf. Made the old Dodge work for it. The weekend before I returned them I installed 4k gsk. couldn't tell the trailer was back there. Amazed on the difference $225 made (60# valve springs and GSK)

Here's what you need, a #10 fuel plate, 3000 gsk, a boost elbow, gauges; boost, EGT, and tranny temp. All that and you will have a truck that's reliable with good power, and your egts won't be sky high.

I agree ... but go 4K springs .. and tune appropiatly .. :tu:

(future mods)
-built trans -- billet single, shift kit and gm conversion solenoid with new server, transducer etc or valvebody
-gauges -start at about $300
Too expensive- boost elbow for $20-banks big head adjustable waste gate(gonna run about 30psi)
Tunnel ram is about $250----banks twin ram air horn
unless you upgrade your turbo the biggest restriction is in the exhaust housing (about 2" opening)-4" turbo back exhaust unless its rusted out or you wnat a different sound there is no real benefit
-3 pc exhaust manifold-- no power benefit. if yours is cracked by all means replace it. posssible reduction in egt by about 50*
-afe stage 2 cai(already installed)


s300 turbo with wastegate starts about $1100

If you have over 150k miles you will see some gains by getting yours rebuilt or going to a new set. Its cheap to upgrade a little here for more power.

I think my gSk is installed wrong though. Make sure you get it done right

instead of buying the banks junk i would definitely agree to go with the afe and just add an adjustable boost elbow. get that dang tranny real built up real good too. mine had a fresh rebuild and i put 6000 miles on it after modding my afc on top of my 180hp pump and did the boost elbow my tranny blew up. got it built now and havent had a problem since. boost elbows are really cheap (can make them yourself or buy one on ebay) also, Chris at Ducky Fuel Injection (formerly SDX) makes some bad*** comp Delivery valves that I installed. I have a great amount of power now and hit 42psi alllll day. just have to keep from overspeeding the turbo til i get that BD on there.

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also, if you build your tranny, idk how it is where you are but i had to turn my pockets inside out for it and i got the buddy discount at $3700 :s:

I ended up buying the #5 tst power kit with boost elbow

good call. :tu: my plate is currently installed in the glove box of the truck. glad you did the elbow though. way more cost effective. mine has been shut since i got it. swapping to another turbo here shortly and gonna get rid of the elbow now.

Ya I think the kit should be good, the boost elbow is much more cost effective rather than spending $500 on a banks wastegate, I haven't installed the fuel plate yet I'm waiting for gauges, then ill putter around nice and easy until I can rebuild my trans, thanks a lot for the input :)

no problem at all. its soo hard to stay off the throttle once you start modding but good luck! once you take that afc off to do the plate you may as well mod the afc...or else wait til you have the tranny done. mossing that afc should get you over 100hp easy because you should have the 180hp pump in yours also.

What other mods do you recommend doing to the afc besides turning the star wheel a few clicks

u can tune it yourself by turning that star wheel a few clicks, drive it, then adjust again. thats what i kept doing for awhile. there is a link to modding the AFC housing on cumminsforum.com gives you the entire thing step by step. its been 5 years since i have done it but really, its just some light dismantling and you need a bench grinder. there is a rod and washer inside, you have to grind the rod a specific amount and the washer, you are suppose to replace with a fender washer, i didnt have one so i just ground down the washers edges because it it "cupped" stock. you can also slide the afc forward to get some more rack movement. the thread on cumminsforum is your best bet. it says all there is to know about it

Do keep in mind that adding fuel and boos pressure your running the risk of poping a HG.. I have a leaker due to too much modds and not enough brains to know not too ...

I have a 215 engine and 887 pump ... spun the wheel and got new TC , plate was MIA , and damn its fast ... 4:10's,265's.. she aint no sloutch off da line at all ... killed the HG and then shortly there after the TC ... so I bought ARP studs and need the Gasket set .. then will be doing it all in one shot ... TC is in .. plate back in .. FF ... turned the star wheel back quite a bit ... Still gets off the line ... just not like an animal .. my EGT's were concerning as well ...

All that said .. use caution .. boost adds cylinder pressure, fuel adds cyl pressure , timing adds cyl pressure ... all together you could pop a HG .... If you intends on going past the 300HP mark .. invest in some studs so you dont have to take 300 steps backwards ... :argh::ouch:

^absolutely right. That should be common knowledge for everyone. Modifying isnt something you want to do unless you have money and a lot of spare time. Especially if u only have one vehicle...

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