Hey guys my gf couldnt start her pathfinder. so i went up to help her out. Her battery was loaded with acid all over the posts. we cleaned it off made sure the connections where clean and I gave her a jump.seems to be working fine now..
So what does that mean excatly is it the cables or the battery? I read that if you change the cables, clean the post with baking soda and water, sos the post and connections you might be good to go with it.
whats the next step. changing the battery or just the cables.? IM not sure i understand why the cables make the battery acid come out? confused, and to change the cables can you just take them both off the postive first then the neg.? a little help please, just to be sure, I hate getting zapped. -

On a Pathfinder their shouldn't be more then one to take off the positive side. Battery's cause corroded cables no matter what unless you either put the green felt pads under them or use the battery grease on them. If you use either of those two thing and it still corrodes then the battery is bad and ready to be replaced.

The only thing you need to worry about on pulling cables it that you don't touch anything metal across the two terminals which would arc it and possibly but rarely fry the puter or alternator. -

Uncle Bubba's Sig:

99 Quad Cab, 4wd, Drag Comp W/Pump Wire & Boost Elbow installed, K&N Air Canon, MBRP exhaust, Belt Drive Lift Pump and bottom Bulkhead feed from the tank, Isspro EV Pyrometer, Boost Gauge, Fuel Pressure Gauge, DT Pro Fab Trac Bar, South Bend 13-1.25 Con O Clutch, Ranch Hand Bumper, Borgeson Steering Shaft, Black Silicone Boots, 2" Lift Soft Ride Front Coils, Solenoid High Idle Kit, Bilstein 5100 HD Shocks, Rickson 19.5 Wheels w/Hancoock Rubber, HD Maxx Link Sway Bar Links, Superlift dual front stabilizer, EGR Brakes Front and Back, RV275 Injector's, Blue Chip VP44, Prodigy brake controller, B&W Gooseneck hitch and more I can't remember right now. Not to mention more to come I'm sure.
374.2/846.7 at 30psi

So if its pretty clean , we should just watch it and see if it bubbles again. And replace the battery eh.. thats what i got from that. Its work-en good now but for how long?
I was thinking taking off the cables and replacing them. I guess we should just wait and see if it plodes again....... thanks bubba.
Were always taking off in the bushes, we carry all the gear for anything that could like flats, battery cables, tools, chain , water, bear beater, all the goods. Id just rather not leave my truck or hers out there. -

Even if the battery is bad it should still at the least take some weeks to corrode back up. I got a Tracker out in the driveway that has turned into my daily driver and I don't maintenance much of nothin on it. It's pretty much disposable. When it finally dies completley I'll throw a new motor in and take off. I haven't seen the terminals under all the corrossion on that battery in at least 20,000 miles and it has never failed to start even once. -

.. thats bad!!

My old 6.5 had the new battery replaced with newer batteries, yea i got scammed.....and the not smart mechanics that did it, never put the cable on properly and it melted after i tried to start it and caught on fire. yikes i got it out..and... I took it off cleaned all the melted rubber off and replaced it and it worked great after that.,,


on the pathfinder... my gfs hubby thought it was the alternator... -

Now pullin cables on you dual battery truck is a different ball game. There is a right and wrong order to pull those cables. Can't tell you what it is cause I just pull em but there is a real way to do it. -

I know red ones first then black ones... -

UM, NO YOU DONT .... WOMEN !






Pull both negatives first, then pull the positives

Reverse the order when pulling them back on - positives first then connect the negatives.

Same deal on a single battery vehicle - pull the negative first, then positive. Positive then negative when reinstalling them. -

Dr. Evil's Sig:

98 12V quad cab 4X4 AND 2001 24V quad cab 4X4

I can only be nice to one person today. Today is not your day. (And tomorrow's not looking good, either.)

oh....................... ok no wonder i get zapped...... -

Hey at least jen knows where the battery is!

on the west coast, cleaning terminals is a monthly thing - you must pull the cable, clean the post and the cable end with a wire brush. If you have serviceable batteries which most of us don't these days there is a little more to it than that but otherwise, pull, inspect, clean, reverse.

Always, makes sure they are tight. -

Wyatt Earp's Sig:

Wyatt Earp
2002 Dodge CTD, 6spd, 4x4 LWB, QC, SLT, 354 gears, 150 HP sticks, EDGE Comp, Smarty Box, FASS 150.150, FP, Boost, Pyro on A-Pillar, Ring MIA, AFE STG 2 w/sock, Custom fuel heater, 4" MBRP SS Cool Duals w/ 5" tips, Trailer brakes, Custom lights, Carrier springs, DSS, Lukes Links, 285 Toyo M/T's, Sony deck, changer, MD player, Rockford speakers

thanks wyatt.. -

Well, getting zapped isnt a big deal but frying your ecm is. If you install battery cables in the wrong order it can be costly. -

I couldnt deal with that at all - Optima red tops (Group 34/78) would work great for you = no corrosion -

I'm sure they would if my electrical system was any good to start with. I'm doing a complete tear down for the May long since I can't afford to go anywhere. -

To keep them form recoroding take and put either coke or some grease on the connections. Ive done it with all of my vehicles and never had a problem with them -

Lucas Amick's Sig:

99 GMC Sierra
I think i need a bigger hammer