Anatomy of a Frantz oil bypass filter Significant interest, and LOTS of misconception surrounds bypass oil filters in general ‑ and the Frantz TP filters especially, tho' the same general construction is also used for the several paper towel bypass filters as well. Bypass oil filtration differs from the stock full‑flow filters used on all modern engines, including our Cummins, in that whereas virtually ALL pressurized engine lubricant must flow thru the stock full flow filter, and then on to various engine parts, only a very SMALL volume of diverted lube flows thru a bypass filter, and then is returned to the crankcase. The far slower volume, and reduced lubricant pressure, combined with the far more dense filter material used in bypass filters, provides much improved filtering than the full‑flow filter, but at much slower pace. Here's photo of the restriction as used in the Frantz filter: YUP, that tiny little hole there in the center ‑ about 1/8 inch in diameter is where ALL lube flow must pass on it's way thru the bypass filter material! ANYWAY, I use the Frantz filter on my '02 Dodge: ... and have been using them for over 40 years ‑ so figure I am as qualified as anyone to show how thay work, as well as a few mods I have done to mine in an effort to improve it. More below. ---AutoMerged DoublePost--- SOOooo, since I usually prefer to change the TP filter cartridge at 2500 miles or so, today was the day, and I took time to document what is involved. Here's what the oil on my dipstick looked like prior to the change ‑ and to the wiseguys, YES, there IS oil on that stick, it's just CLEAN! Here's what a used TP roll looks like after 2500+ miles: The TP brand I use? Here's a shot underhood with the filter canister removed from its base: You will notice, there is hardly ANY waste oil ‑ I change oil after the truck has been unused for a decent period of time, usually overnight, so most excess oil has had time to drain back into the crankcase. More...

NOW, as to those "mods" I mentioned, here's one:



What you see here, is a double thickness of 100‑mesh brass screen ‑ this sits at the bottom of the canister with several thicknessses of coffee filter material on top of it. The purpose was to catch any stray paper dust particles that MIGHT shed off the TP rolls from the factory cutting operation ‑ dunno if it helps, but sure doesn't hurt!

THEN, to help capture any stray iron or other ferrous material, I made a gizmo that inserts into the main lube incoming flow, using a stack of magnets:



Also note the neoprene O‑rings around the filters center post ‑ those were selected to provide a snug fit between the TP inner core, and that center post, to prevent any lube from migrating down the center instead of THRU the TP roll ‑ it works nicely, and you can actually see the embossing from those O‑rings on the inner surfce of the TP roll where oil pressure has compressed the TP cartridge against them ‑ here's a better shot of the O‑rings, as well as showing the new coffee filter material installed prior to reassembling the filter:



---AutoMerged DoublePost---

So how do you actually install the new TP into the canister? Well, after wiping it out carefully, you must carefully remove enough wraps of TP off the roll to create very snug ‑ actually TIGHT ‑ fit into the canister:



Here's where it is EXTREMELY important to carefully select a TP material that is wound VERY tightly on the core ‑ density is the important factor here, not "softness" ‑ and deep embossing and perfumes are not wanted here either! Consider the TP not as bunch of loose individual sheets, but as a solid dense filter CARTRIDGE that the oil must travel thru lengthwise before being returned to the engine...

Heres the TP being forced into the canister after trimming the outer unwanted layers off:



Good strong pressure, and a slight twisting motion gets it done... And then reinstall on the filter base ‑ and ready to head on down the road ‑ with VERY clean oil!

Are these Frantz filters for everyone?

Probably not, even without the "extras" I have done to mine, they require more care and attention than some of the spin‑on bypass filters available from places like Amsoil ‑ and while the Frantz and other similar paper towel Bypass filters are normally quite simple to service, someone CAN select the wrong filter material, and then install it poorly ‑ and then whine endlesly about the poor quality of the filter itself ‑ just s they do with other similar accessories. BUT, if you want clean oil second to none, and are willing to put in just a LITTLE extra effort, these sure do work nice ‑ you DID see my dipstick back in the lead post, didn't you...?

Frantz Filters Manufactured by We Filter It! Inc ‑ Oil, Diesel and Gas Filters

excellent article Gary..thank you for your contribution

Awesome, Gary. I have been waiting for this article since you signed up.

THANKS for the comments guys - stuff I'm initially posting here is from past threads on other forums that seemed popular and well received - some "old timers" here will undoubtedly recognize some of them, but newer guys may find them new and useful...

NOW, as to this particular thread, LOT'S of "old wives tales" and misconceptions about use of TP as a filtering agent are floating around, and we might as well cover them here ahead of time:

"TP belongs in the BATHROOM!"

GREAT, if that's your opinion, kindly move on to another thread - these filters are obviously NOT for YOU!

"The TP will all dissolve, and end up inside the oil passages and down in the crankcase!"

Did you see the pic further above with the USED TP roll? Did it look dissolved? FACT is, most paper products INCREASE in strength when exposed to oil - and TP is no different! What happens to paper in the toilet bowl and waste system is totally different from what's being done in THIS application - and by the way, consider the use of TP in this usage as more like a filter CARTRIDGE than as loose, individual sheets. And finally, guess what the usual OEM full-flow oil filter element is made out of - P-A-P-E-R !

"The various chemicals used to make TP will leech out, and contaminate the oil and damage the engine!

Hasn't proved to be any problem for others, or ME in well over 40 years and hundreds of thousands of miles - and here's an oil analysis done on my own engine oil with 20K miles on it:



And here's a particle count - the BEST available yardstick of the filtering ability of a filtration system - as was done on one of my own samples with about 6K miles on the oil:



Not much evidence of dangerous chemicals OR dissolved TP in EITHER of the above reports, was there! And here again is a pic of the oil on my dipstick with about 7K miles on it:



Not too shabby for oil that's been forced thru butt-wipe for 7K or so, is it!

I post this particular thread merely as a demo of what filters of this type are, and can do for their users - ANY brand/type of bypass filter WILL deliver FAR better oil filtration than what the OEM full flow filter will do on it's own - and by the way, these filters DO NOT REPLACE the OEM filter - they just supplement it.

NO, I don't make a dime on the sales of these Frantz type units, and have no particular concerns as to who uses them or do not - I just feel they are about the BEST commonly available on the market - as I have consistently proved to myself with MANY used oil analysis reports.

However, a number of guys reading my past writeup on these have banded together for group purchase with Frantz, and obtained special pricing - so if any here are interested in picking one up for themselves, mention my name, Gary Davidson from Canyon City Oregon to Debbie Harley at www.wefilterit.com and I'm pretty sure she will still give you a better than usual deal on one.

For those interested in obtaining still more info on various new and used oil analysis, as well as coverage of various aftermarket bypass filtration setups, go to www.bobtheoilguy.com for LOTS of valuable info.

CHEERS!

I will be honest here and admit that I dont know a whole lot bout oil........


I run an Amsoil BE-100 bypass filter that is a 10% slip stream off the polished side of the OEM filter .............I change it once a year or aprox 35k miles

My oil is polished ( filtered) down to 2 micron and it still runs black.....this tells my simple mind that soot particles are less that 2 micron and slipping thru my polish filter......hence my oil is still black black black

so at this point I would really like to know if < 2 micron soot particles are hurtin me

Gary, Buddy I believe every word you have said here and take it as gospel. But even after all these years I still laugh every time i see somebody talkin about their toilet paper filter. Not that I doubt it, it's just that in my immature little brain it's like a fart, no matter how childish it is I still gotta laugh.

Thanks for all the info.

Wow... that's pretty impressive results...

Do these systems work on gassers also? Would it be benifit a someone who just uses it for DD?

What are some of the added benifits to Bypass filters? I know added engine longevity, but added fuel milage or anything?

How does the system install? Does something T into the drain plug for allow the oil through the system that way? How much more additional oil is required to make up for the bypass system it's self???

If I get one of these where is the best place to tap into?

You mention one advantage in that your oil capacity now increases, 1-2 quarts depending on which system you put on and size of filter you chose to use. Increase capacity of course increases oil life and cooling for the engine. Getting the 2-20 micon particles out of there will decrease wear. This size has been show to cause wear over time so you are just buying more time. Extend oil drains. Oil is analytically clean all the time(don't mistake this for clear oil) And it can help increase mileage...just keeping things clean reduces drag.

As far as the return, again depends on the system you buy. Ours has returns to the oil fill caps, or it may return right to the filter unit already on the truck. Or there are tapping screws if you want to return it elsewhere, like the pan. All depends on what you have for a vehicle and what we make for it. Here is a look at the different ones we have:
http://www.amsoil.com/StoreFront/bf.aspx

Heath

Here's the tap point most use - the plugged port on top of the OEM filter housing:



THEN, for a return point, many use a neat swivel fitting that is attached to the oil fill cap - these are available thru Amsoil dealers for about $10:




NOW FOR A REALITY CHECK!

Bypass filters probably are best suited for guys like me, who plan to keep their truck for a LONG time, and MANY miles, or guys who simply want the BEST they can install on their trucks as enthusiasts - after all, their greatest advantage is to extend the lifespan of the engine! And what's the point of installing one if you only keep a truck for several years and perhaps 100K miles before trading for something else? The only one to benefit in that case, will be the NEXT owner(s)!

Guys using their trucks commercially for their living - and who will KEEP their trucks for as long as it will run and operate economically will benefit from a good bypass filter, but if they are hot-shot, long distance haulers, they will probably be better off with one of the longer usage spin-on type filters such as the Amsoil - they won't filter quite as efficiently as the TP type, bur are lots more convenient to use - and FAR better than just the OEM full-flow!

Yes, the TP type bypass filters work just as efficiently and beneficially on gas engines as on diesel - and all the above comments apply there as well. My first use of this filter was on a gasser - and then on several others as I myself changed vehicles - the one pictured above is about 40 years old!

Is charmon ok?

Thanks for the in depth look. Answers a few lingering questions I've had.

I was exchanging email with Deb at wefilterit.com, and she mentioned a special she has going on now for the Frantz setups - just in case anyone is interested. Along with a lower price, she is including the swivel fitting for the oil return line setup that many of us prefer.

Heck of a deal and thanks for the write-up Gary!!!