Turning your EBPV into an Exhaust Brake
#22
EBPV & T/C lock with DPST switch
tips and tricks that i encountered doing this mod.
1. The wire from the 4 wires marked center high lamp feed that do not lead to anything are dead wires. i taped in to the wire harness right behind the master cylinder on the driver’s side above your feet. (GREEN WIRE) check to see if it has power only when the brake is applied.
2. The wires coming off of the EBPV on the plug to the pedestal were not the same color as the directions depicted. Black with a white stripe and yellow with a red stripe. the yellow with red is the one to tap.
3. install another diode in the power supply so you do not short out what you are taping in to for power.
1. The wire from the 4 wires marked center high lamp feed that do not lead to anything are dead wires. i taped in to the wire harness right behind the master cylinder on the driver’s side above your feet. (GREEN WIRE) check to see if it has power only when the brake is applied.
2. The wires coming off of the EBPV on the plug to the pedestal were not the same color as the directions depicted. Black with a white stripe and yellow with a red stripe. the yellow with red is the one to tap.
3. install another diode in the power supply so you do not short out what you are taping in to for power.
BTW, what size diode, swamps shows a RS#276-1114, which should be 2.5amp, but they are actually 1.5amp, not sure if this makes a difference, maybe using 1N5408, 1000PIV 3amp rectifier diode.... just wondering
EBPV switch.pdf
If I use one DPST switch, grounding T/C and energizing EBPV then it would seem much more simple with just one switch. Don't really need to have 3 operations, typically I would use the EBPV with braking, so actuating with brake lights seems just easier for me.
Let me know if you think this would work, and also if this is actually a switch I am proposing, or a relay. If it's a relay then how would I operate it with one switch?
Also, would putting a diode on source side of tap for T/C for potential backfeed be a good idea. And/or diode, or at least a fuse for the brake light hot wire.
Thanks
TIMK
2003, F350, 7.3L, 4R100, CC, SB, 4" lift, 285/75/R16
SNUG TOP, AIH DELETE, 6637 INTAKE, PETE'S COVER, FOG LIGHT MOD.... MORE TO COME!
Last edited by REDSLED88; 12-21-2011 at 03:56 PM.
#23
#24
#25
#26
Modified Swamps
Well, it's sort of like Swamps, but modified in that in only would have one operation, instead of ON/OFF/ON. Although you bring up a good point, if there is a 2-3 second delay, then hitting the switch may be a good thing. I just don't think I would use it that way, and would prefer to use the brake to engage, but that's me.
Yeah, slush box, I know. I wish I had a ZF6, just can't seem to get it passed my old lady yet... yet!
I ask about the diode because Radio shack claims that part# is a 2.5 amp rectifier diode, but there were reviews on the website claiming they were only 1 amp, so I want to be sure of the size.
If anyone knows more than fordornothing or me about electronics please chime in.
I think I have a relay on my diagram, or a DPST switch, but like I said, I'm not an electronics wiz, so I'm not sure.
Can someone let me know if my diagram would work, and if so what type of switch it would require.
Thanks fordornothing, I'll keep at it. If all else fails I can still use swamps, just don't need 3 operations.
Thanks in advance
TIMK
Yeah, slush box, I know. I wish I had a ZF6, just can't seem to get it passed my old lady yet... yet!
I ask about the diode because Radio shack claims that part# is a 2.5 amp rectifier diode, but there were reviews on the website claiming they were only 1 amp, so I want to be sure of the size.
If anyone knows more than fordornothing or me about electronics please chime in.
I think I have a relay on my diagram, or a DPST switch, but like I said, I'm not an electronics wiz, so I'm not sure.
Can someone let me know if my diagram would work, and if so what type of switch it would require.
Thanks fordornothing, I'll keep at it. If all else fails I can still use swamps, just don't need 3 operations.
Thanks in advance
TIMK
#27
#28
#29
Yes
Yeah, but I'm still needing to lock the T/C... auto remember.
So what I need to do is ground the t/c and energize the EBPV at the same time. One switch
That's all... doesn't seem that hard, but I don't know what kind of switch I need, or if it would require a relay.
Thanks for the info on Diode, I never thought to check with multimeter... Duh, I should of thought of that.
Or I can use a DPDT switch like swamps and just not have the hot power position hooked up, so basically up would activate with brakes, center is off (normal) and down is nothing.
Thanks in Advance
TIMK
So what I need to do is ground the t/c and energize the EBPV at the same time. One switch
That's all... doesn't seem that hard, but I don't know what kind of switch I need, or if it would require a relay.
Thanks for the info on Diode, I never thought to check with multimeter... Duh, I should of thought of that.
Or I can use a DPDT switch like swamps and just not have the hot power position hooked up, so basically up would activate with brakes, center is off (normal) and down is nothing.
Thanks in Advance
TIMK
#30