Ford Powerstroke 99-03 7.3L Discussion of 99-03 7.3 Liter Ford Powerstroke Turbo Diesels

Turning your EBPV into an Exhaust Brake

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #21  
Old 12-13-2011, 07:17 PM
fordornothing's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Hays, KS
Posts: 3,884
Received 144 Likes on 111 Posts
Default

keep in mind these directions are for the OBS. my EBPV wires are the same color as OBS....
 
  #22  
Old 12-21-2011, 03:52 PM
REDSLED88's Avatar
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: JACKSON, CA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default EBPV & T/C lock with DPST switch

Originally Posted by The hosser
tips and tricks that i encountered doing this mod.
1. The wire from the 4 wires marked center high lamp feed that do not lead to anything are dead wires. i taped in to the wire harness right behind the master cylinder on the driver’s side above your feet. (GREEN WIRE) check to see if it has power only when the brake is applied.
2. The wires coming off of the EBPV on the plug to the pedestal were not the same color as the directions depicted. Black with a white stripe and yellow with a red stripe. the yellow with red is the one to tap.
3. install another diode in the power supply so you do not short out what you are taping in to for power.
Not sure if this will work either, but seems pretty easy.
BTW, what size diode, swamps shows a RS#276-1114, which should be 2.5amp, but they are actually 1.5amp, not sure if this makes a difference, maybe using 1N5408, 1000PIV 3amp rectifier diode.... just wondering

EBPV switch.pdf

If I use one DPST switch, grounding T/C and energizing EBPV then it would seem much more simple with just one switch. Don't really need to have 3 operations, typically I would use the EBPV with braking, so actuating with brake lights seems just easier for me.
Let me know if you think this would work, and also if this is actually a switch I am proposing, or a relay. If it's a relay then how would I operate it with one switch?

Also, would putting a diode on source side of tap for T/C for potential backfeed be a good idea. And/or diode, or at least a fuse for the brake light hot wire.

Thanks

TIMK

2003, F350, 7.3L, 4R100, CC, SB, 4" lift, 285/75/R16
SNUG TOP, AIH DELETE, 6637 INTAKE, PETE'S COVER, FOG LIGHT MOD.... MORE TO COME!
 

Last edited by REDSLED88; 12-21-2011 at 03:56 PM.
  #23  
Old 12-21-2011, 05:54 PM
fordornothing's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Hays, KS
Posts: 3,884
Received 144 Likes on 111 Posts
Default

i'm thinking about re doing it and just having on and off. keep in mind it takes a few seconds for it to close so you might not like it if you wire it to the brake.
 
  #24  
Old 12-21-2011, 05:57 PM
REDSLED88's Avatar
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: JACKSON, CA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default More info please

fordornothing....
What size diode did you use? just the ones that swamp calls for?

Also, would my diagram be a switch or a relay, and would I have to operate relay with a switch?

I'm not an electrical genious, so the more info the better.

Thanks

TIMK
 
  #25  
Old 12-21-2011, 06:09 PM
fordornothing's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Hays, KS
Posts: 3,884
Received 144 Likes on 111 Posts
Default

oh you're a auto loader... well your diagram just confused the holly hell out of me. i'd follow swamps write up. they have it for autos too. my diode? i don't know. i went to the shack and handed the lady my list and she got everything for me.
 
  #26  
Old 12-21-2011, 10:58 PM
REDSLED88's Avatar
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: JACKSON, CA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Modified Swamps

Well, it's sort of like Swamps, but modified in that in only would have one operation, instead of ON/OFF/ON. Although you bring up a good point, if there is a 2-3 second delay, then hitting the switch may be a good thing. I just don't think I would use it that way, and would prefer to use the brake to engage, but that's me.

Yeah, slush box, I know. I wish I had a ZF6, just can't seem to get it passed my old lady yet... yet!

I ask about the diode because Radio shack claims that part# is a 2.5 amp rectifier diode, but there were reviews on the website claiming they were only 1 amp, so I want to be sure of the size.

If anyone knows more than fordornothing or me about electronics please chime in.
I think I have a relay on my diagram, or a DPST switch, but like I said, I'm not an electronics wiz, so I'm not sure.

Can someone let me know if my diagram would work, and if so what type of switch it would require.

Thanks fordornothing, I'll keep at it. If all else fails I can still use swamps, just don't need 3 operations.

Thanks in advance

TIMK
 
  #27  
Old 12-21-2011, 11:37 PM
gradyc's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 450
Received 45 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

I doubt that the back pressure solenoid uses more than 1 amp to operate. If you have a multi-meter with amp reading capabilities you could hook it up to the battery to see how much it takes. If there is any doubt you can always use a larger diode without any trouble.
 
  #28  
Old 12-22-2011, 06:49 PM
fordornothing's Avatar
Diesel Bomber
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Hays, KS
Posts: 3,884
Received 144 Likes on 111 Posts
Default

well if you just want a on/ off, just cut the wire. on mine it was grey with red or it will be the yellow with red. then run a wire from the brake switch to it or run a wire from a switch. it's up to you.
 
  #29  
Old 12-22-2011, 10:46 PM
REDSLED88's Avatar
Newbie
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: JACKSON, CA
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default Yes

Yeah, but I'm still needing to lock the T/C... auto remember.
So what I need to do is ground the t/c and energize the EBPV at the same time. One switch

That's all... doesn't seem that hard, but I don't know what kind of switch I need, or if it would require a relay.
Thanks for the info on Diode, I never thought to check with multimeter... Duh, I should of thought of that.

Or I can use a DPDT switch like swamps and just not have the hot power position hooked up, so basically up would activate with brakes, center is off (normal) and down is nothing.

Thanks in Advance

TIMK
 
  #30  
Old 12-23-2011, 05:53 PM
gradyc's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Florida
Posts: 450
Received 45 Likes on 43 Posts
Default

Or I can use a DPDT switch like swamps and just not have the hot power position hooked up, so basically up would activate with brakes, center is off (normal) and down is nothing.

Thanks in Advance

TIMK[/QUOTE]

If all you want is the brake activation a DPST would do the job.
 


Quick Reply: Turning your EBPV into an Exhaust Brake



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:54 AM.