hey guys, new to DB. i kinda poked around and have been researching my problem via google and some forums since it happened. I bought a 2004 F350 6.0 a few months back. ran great, for weeks, then i noticed every now and then ever so slightly it would have a slight power drop when cruising, would happen intermittently at seemingly random times. at around 55 she would do a lil power lunge and shake till i throttle up or down then would stop, it didnt do this all the time but most the time. it was due for an oil change, but only by 100 miles or so(just by going off 3000miles or 3 months) same with fuel filters, they were coming up due. so, i hit a little mud, nothing big, was in and out in a few minutes, wasn't rhomping on it neither. get home. drove to store later in the day. i went out of town for 3 days, come home to my baby not starting. crank no start condition with no relevant codes thrown. new batteries were put in, i primed the fuel pump a few times letting it fully cycle, i returned the sct tuner program back stock, cleared codes, no dice. fuel reset is good, plenty of oil in stick, bro in law hooked up his diagnostic scanner(he is an onsite and fleet mechanic) everything reads proper pressures and voltages, ficm tested good at key on and crank with no drop from 58v(swamps upgrade) even swapped the smaller board in the ficm to test further) fuel pressure is 55-60 i think, and the previous owner upgraded the system to bigger lines and pump a while back. the injectors click for a few seconds when key is on, then they stop. no white smoke or any smoke out the stacks at all. i contacted previous owner (one of my friends) who said he in the last two years has done numerous fixes, new Hpop, icp, crand and cam sensors i believe, egr delete, and a few others i cant remember off the top of my head. like i said, the diag tool shows great numbers and pressures all within spec and still no dice. yes the oil is still fairly clean as well. all fuses are good, and i havent found any bad wires or chafing. any and all help is appreciated. im still waiting on the bro in law to bring his scanner back so we can go further in depth, but so far he said he would "be there tomorrow" going on 3 weeks now. my baby just sitting and im frustrated as all hell. i am mechanically inclined and usually do all my own fixes on all my past or current cars trucks and bikes, this is my first diesel ive ever owned and so far she a real headach. thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

Do you have a ficm unit you can swap out and test ? ?

 

no, I don't currently, only thing I know is that it tested 58volts. I was gonna send it to swamps for testing, but they said it read 58v then it will test good on their end so no need to send it to em

 

What pressures are good?? ICP actual and ICP desired should be close. ICP actual has to reach 500PSI for the injectors to fire up. if ou have 500PSI actual and know the Ficm is good then the problem has to be fuel or air. Make sure the turbo spins free and if you have an late 04 make sure the butterfly valve under the intake elbow is open, this valve is unique to the late 04s, the early 04s had a dummy housing with no valve in it.

If the ICP actual is low then check the IPR duty cycle, it will be high too, the first thing to check is the IPR valve to make sure the screen is ok and that it is working properly.
Another simple thing to try is to unplug the ICP sensor to see if it will start, a bad ICP can cause it to surge and stall out too.

 

Ill have to double check when i can get the diag scanner back on it, but why whould the injector buzz stop after a cople of seconds when ken key turned on? If the ICP is bad, wouldnt their be no buzz from the get go? I dont know which is why i ask. The turbo does spin free, it was rebuilt within the year as well.

 

The buzz length depends on the programming, mine only buzzes for a second or 2, old programming, the new programming will buzz them for quite a bit longer. The ICP/injection control pressure/ sensor will not effect the FICM at all. it tells the computer how much High Pressure oil there is and then the computer will either open/lower %/ or close/higher%/ the IPR valve/injection control pressure valve/ to get the Desired ICP pressure and the Actual ICP close.

 

Ok. I do know their is no buzz while cranking. Sighh, this is a waiting game for the bro in law, stuck without that tool it seems like

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ok, the bro in law stopped by and hooked up his machine, everything was reading within spec, except the crank and cam sensors read not in sync. so he has a spare set that we going to throw in supposedly first thing tomorrow morning and see if that is the issue, if not, then we back to square one again.