Hi everyone. First posting so sorry if I break any rules but I will try not to.
Have had my 2004 excursion with PSD FOR close to 3 years now did regular maint. Oil every 5k with rotella t6 changed filter cap every 15k just for good measure. Fuel filters every 10k. Never had an issue until this past winter when I had an injector #8 and rick fail same time. Knowing what I know now FICM WAS probably failing for awhile, as it was a hard start below +30℉ to the point it would take two crank sessions to start and then smoke like crazy for the first couple minutes. I took care of both issues and had no additional problems until the one I am still dealing with. Which was around 2k miles later. I had the tip of my #1 injector break off while driving. Not knowing severity right away I mistakingly drove it home around 35 miles in that condition. The injector tip had damaged the piston and two valves which I thought was pretty lucky. Lucky in the fact the cylinder walls had not been damaged. Unfortunately like most people I didn't have money laying around to pay a specialist to do the work I would be setting out to do. After a couple weeks of research I decided that I would hop this excursion up a little bit. The list of new parts involved coolant filter, bypass oil filtration, new oil cooler, new turbo feed and drain lines ford oem parts, arp head studs, egr delete kit, oem head gaskets, one new oem piston, powermaxx turbo, industrial inj. 175cc, sct livewire ts for monitoring new parts and tune for all this stuff to work together, regulated return lines, air dog fuel pump, that's all I can remember right now. Just to let you know it has 3.5 down pipe and 4 in exhaust no kitty. Well had it all done bolted back together brought it up to temp 3 times drained coolant each time and oil after first run to operating temp, all this done before attempting to test drive. So now that I was ready for test drive I tried.... No power falling on it's sad bent a push rod. Replaced all with new oem push rods. Started again still no power. Found up pipe leaks to turbo adjusted the pipes leaks fixed. Used smoke machine on intake at same time no leaks at 13 psi . Killed batteries trying to figure it out got two new batteries and started idled fine but would die in gear. No boost pressure which I suspect must have been going on the whole time. Currently have turbo sent in to get warranted and "preliminary reports are suspecting oil starvation". Now my question how can this be as it has been idled to operating temp numerous times and injectors run on the oil pressure. Please someone smarter then me explain. I just want my Excursion running again and thought I took necessary steps to make it "bulletproof" and never have an issue again.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Correct me if wrong but since engine was running there should be no way oil starvation could be true

 

True, this motor will not run without oil, it is a good idea to pour some oil down the top of the oil inlet area when you are putting a new turbo on just to be sure it has some in there for initial start up. Just make sure you have a factory oil cap or a billet one from Amsoil or other bypass manufacturer.

 

K well being that it had been idle to operating temp multiple times. If Garrett tries telling me it was my fault for "oil starvation" what should I do? I might be getting ahead of myself on all of this but I've got a lot of time and money wrapped up into a non working rig. Time and money are both getting harder to come by with a 2 year old. I just want it finished . Missed out on two stock pulls already. That woulda been fun to try. Plus in testing my own work on push rods and injectors before sending turbo back and putting stock turbo back in, pretty sure I need oil rail o rings now. It drops oil pressure to quick after shutdown.

 

are you talking oil pressure on the gauge?? don't worry about that as it is most likely from the ByPass filter system, it will bleed the pressure off quicker on shut down and the gauge on dash has no indication of what the HPOP is doing. with all the work you have done it might not be a bad idea to just go ahead and replace the oil pump gears for the motor. double check the little plunger in bottom of the oil filter housing to make sure it is still there and functions,

 

It was there and functioned when put back on engine with work done I'm talking hp oil bleeding off to quick. As watched through the livewire. Why replace oil gears? If ran when disassembled and not showing signs of a failure? Are they cheap? Less than honey b?

 

OK, high pressure is bleeding quick. as soon as you turn the key off the IPR valve will open fully bleeding the pressure off, this is normal. You would have a "hard start" "no start" when hot if those orings were bad.

 

Standpipe o rings same theory?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

If I damaged them on reinstallation would it be always hard start and bleed quick as well

 

Yes, any oring in the high pressure system will cause the same issues, STC fitting on 05 and up trucks, dummy plugs, standpipes, injector orings, oil rail orings, and on 03-04 trucks it can also be the orings in the flex lines that supply the oil rails but not nearly as common and also the orange oring on top of the HPOP and goes into the HPOP cover.

 

Well I think I may have damaged my o rings on the stand pipes or dummy plugs

 

You can get the kit with both dummy plugs and standpipes from Tousley Ford for $102 so its not a bad idea to go ahead and fix them now.