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Gents I could use a second oppinion here. This truck was running down the highway no issues no strutter and just died. The only fault code is for #1 glow plug but its been there for months no. We are in TX so no need ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

2006 F350 6.0 no start issue

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Old 10-02-2012, 11:35 PM

Default 2006 F350 6.0 no start issue

Gents I could use a second oppinion here. This truck was running down the highway no issues no strutter and just died. The only fault code is for #1 glow plug but its been there for months no. We are in TX so no need for glow plugs at this time. It will smoke when you crank on it and will run on spray. When cranking and whith spray the mail engine oil pressure will go over half way up the gauge. We have a constant 48 volts at the FICM key on or while cranking. I checked the voltage at the signal wire for the ICP sensor and only have .2 volts while cranking or key on. I was told by the shop this should be .8 volts if not then the HPOP was not building presure. I pulled the pump and will replace it but I also found the STC fitting was loose at the pump. I know when the old quick disconnect type was around it would leak and cause a no start but this is the updated style. Also found no trash in the IPR screen but there was a hole in the screen. Not sure that is rite??? Anyone got any other ideas? We will be installing an EGR deleat kit and new pump and IPR tomorrow so I hope I'm rite.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:34 AM
Lilpooh's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast


Here is a check list for no start issues.


Lilpooh's Sig:'04 King Ranch CC DRW 6.0 X-3 tunes by DJ,QT,GH,ID,head studs,II Stage 1turbo,ATS coolant recirc lines,Swamp's 48v ficm,coolant filter,Snow Perf stage II,EGR delete,AD2,4" turbo back straight pipe,S&B intake,Quad "A" pillar autometer gauges,Suncoast Tri Disk Conv,billet input shaft,Suncoast superduty rebuild kit,Trans-go shift kit,Mag-Hytec trans pan,CFM+ elbow,ccv mod,15K reese 5er,Hi idle mod.
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Old 10-03-2012, 08:58 AM


Thanks but I can't log on to that sight.
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Old 10-03-2012, 10:30 AM
Mdub707's Avatar


You sound like you're on the right track. Easiest thing is to hook it to a scanner and measure ICP actual against ICP desired. If desired is normal and actual is really low or non existent, probably the pump yeah. It needs 525psi of ICP to fire.

Mdub707's Sig:

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Old 10-03-2012, 12:19 PM


Thanks. I am actually a Komatsu / Cummins Service Engineer / Engines so I know about the HPI and HUI fuel system but I don't have a scanner only DDDL and Cummins Insite on my lap top pro access on both. Can you tell me what is the best scanner you have seen that will cover Ford Dodge and Chevy diesel engines the best? Again thanks for your help on my so start issue. I have found that most of the guys on here are very helpful and also very kind. I hope to get to know you all.
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:19 PM
Lilpooh's Avatar
Diesel Enthusiast


Troubleshooting a NO-START:

1. Pull diagnostic trouble codes (DTC's) if you can (you can have codes without a Check Engine Light).

2. Automatic transmission shift lever fully in PARK or NEUTRAL? Try restarting while slightly moving the gearshift lever.

3. If manual, clutch pedal fully pressed?

4. Battery connections (all including grounds) - all good? Alternator cable connections good?

5. Starter relay connections - all good?

6. Glow plug connectors making good connection?

7. Is the starter engaging? Verify starter and ignition switch are working properly.

8. Load test BOTH batteries individually and check the charging system (alternator). PCM needs to see 100 rpm minimum to start IIRC.

9. Fusible links and fuses OK? The FICM relay is labled IDM Relay #304. Check it specifically.

10. Could a factory or aftermarket anti-theft device be causing the problem (Passive Active Theft System - PATS)? Disconnect it if possible. Same w/ a remote start system.

11. Push the reset on the emergency fuel cut-off switch.

12. Any oil pressure registering on the dash pressure gauge (low pressure system)? If not, it could be a bad oil pump (LPOP), a oil filter drain valve stuck open, or a bad oil pressure regulator. You should register oil pressure on the dash gauge in a long crank/ no start condition when the complete oil system is known to be sealed.

13. Check PCM and FICM connections - any wire chaffing? Any Injector harness chaffing? Any ICP or IPR harness chaffing? More detail below.

14. Verify that the oil level is correct and the proper oil and filter have been installed. Oil foaming and loss of viscosity (too thick or fuel diluted) can be an issue. Check oil level for fuel dilution, inspect oil condition, maybe even change oil and filter. Definitely make sure you filled w/ the proper oil.

15. Verify that the air filter is not plugged - Check the filter minder and you may even want to pull the air filter and inspect.

16. Inspect the ICP sensor and harness. Is it oil soaked? Disconnect the ICP and try again. The PCM will establish a default control scheme that would allow the truck to start if the problem were the ICP sensor. Afterwards, make sure the harness is re-installed securely. Also, check ICP circuit fuse.

17. Change both fuel filters, inspect appearance of the fuel when draining the water separator (you could just have bad fuel).
Make sure that the air is purged on start-up. By following the proper (KOEO) cycling procedure before cranking."

18. If you can, verify the fuel pressure (test port is at the base of the secondary fuel filter). Must be over 45 psig.

19. If you have no fuel flow or low pressure, it could be a bad pump (HFCM), OR it could be a plugged fuel filter or plugged lines. You can blow air through the lines to check for plugging. If there is no pluggage, test the pump. First, pull fuse 302 (PCM) and relay 304 (FICM) and then pull the secondary (upper) fuel filter, remove any fuel, and then verify that it is being filled by cranking the engine. As it is being filled, make sure there are no air bubbles. If there are, you have a leak in some connections, the HFCM suction line, or the HFCM o-ring (most likely). Be sure to lube the o-ring w/ oil before re-installing.
The pump vacuum test is refered to as an ""inlet restriction test"". This will test from the pump to the tank for a restriction. A reading that of more than 6"" H2O vacuum is very bad. 6"" is the max limit. The normal reading is between 2"" and 0"" of H2O.
To do this test you would need to ""T"" a vacuum gauge in between the back of the pump and the line coming into it. If you have a high reading there, then move the T to the tank at the outlet line. If the restriction is still present at the tank, then the problem is in the tank. If there is no restriction at this point, then the issue would be with the supply line to the pump."

20. Pull the oil filter top and have someone crank it while you watch to see if any oil is flowing into the filter housing. If not then it is a LPO problem. Take a long extension and hold down the check valve (round black thing held up by a spring). Have someone crank the engine. The housing should fill within about 10 seconds of cranking.

21. If possible, verify high pressure oil pressure (ICP sensor) - must be over 500 psig to fire the injectors. See link below.

22. Pull the EGR valve and inspect. Clean if dirty. Check the strength of the spring. Consider replacing it - just because. Also clean the MAP sensor hose and the EBP tube. These may cause surging and hard start, but a long shot for a no-start.

23. Troubleshoot the glow plug system (you need a clamp on inductive ammeter). Test each glow plug module wire bundle separately, then test each glow plug. Look for any amperages lower on one side or lower to an individual glow plug. From each module you should see 200 A at first dropping quickly to 35-37 A if the GPCM is OK. Both modules should read apprx. the same. Each glow plug will draw 8-10 A. Or you could check the resistance in each glow plug - should be less than 1 ohm.

24. Carry out the KOEO Injector Electrical Self-Test (Click Test) and the bubble test.

25. Check the Crank (CKP) and Cam (CMP) sensor wiring harnesses.

26. Check the FICM voltage - see post #2 of this thread (below).

Wire Chaffing Locations:

FICM and ICP harness recall

(in the link above you may have to copy and past the address in your web browser to access the video from Ford.

h t t p://turbodieselforums.com/downloads/6.0L%20wire%20chafing.pdf
(copy and paste the URL above in your browser - without the spaces in http)
h t t p://turbodieselforums.com/downloads/Econoline%20Wire%20Chafe.pdf
(copy and paste the URL above in your browser - without the spaces in http)


In the ITP search page enter "high pressure oil" and click on the drop down "Look For" and select "exact phrase". Go to page 2.

Determinimg if the ICP sensor is seeing 500 psig minimum:
scroll down to post #23 in the thread linked above.

If possible, you can pull the ICP and install a pressure gauge to check the pressure in the “high pressure oil system”. Crank the engine and watch the pressure. You need 500 psig to start. The fitting needed for this is the same as that for the fuel pressure test port.

Here is a way of checking to see if you have sufficient high pressure oil without having a gauge or adapter. Strip back the wires about an inch away from the icp sensor connector. Obtain a digital multimeter and set it for voltage (DC). The bn-wh wire is a five volt reference, leave that alone. Strip back the db-lg signal wire and the gy-rd ground wire. Put positive lead on a dark blue-light green wire and negative lead on gray-red wire. Have an assistant crank truck, you need a minimum of 0.80 volts (500 psi) for the truck to start, if you are getting greater than that then you have sufficient high pressure oil.

To check your ipr and hp oil system:
1. Get an ipr connector from Ford and put 2 long wires on the end, plug it into the ipr. Later you will attach the 2 long leads to b+ and negative ...... this will close the ipr.
2. Then remove your icp sensor (04.25 and up truck??) from the passenger side valve cover and thread a fitting in with an air fitting on the end (so you can apply compressed air to the hp oil system).
3. Remove your oil fill cap, your intake up to the turbo (get the ccv out of the valve cover at least), and the hot side cac tube.
4. Then, command the IPR closed for only 30 seconds, apply 100psi air to the hp oil system and listed to where the leak is coming from.
When you hear it you've found your problem....that is assuming you have a hp oil problem.
If your building low and high oil pressure fine, then you've just wasted your time.

Generally on no-start conditions that are related to "high pressure oil" leaks, the vehicle will still develop low pressure system pressures. However, the plug on the H.P. oil feed can occasionally blow out, the H.P. pump seal can blow out, and on the '03-04 trucks the ball on the side of the H.P. pump blow out - causing loss of base oil pressure.

Hard start - no start conditions related to the HPOP could be attributed to the following components in the high pressure oil system (air test while hot will determine the root cause):
Faulty IPR valve
Leaking snap-to-connect (STC) fitting (05 and up model years)
Leaky or cracked branch tube
Leak with the stand pipe
Leaky or cracked oil rail (including oil rail end caps/plugs)
Leak in the d-rings of the oil rail front port plugs (or dummy plugs)
Leaky o-ring on an injector; or leak at the top of the injector where the ball tube from the high pressure oil rail connects to the injector.
Weak or failed HPOP itself
Low base oil pressure (failed oil pressure regulator).
Low base oil pressure (bad low pressure oil pump - LPOP).

Post #3 below has a low pressure oil test procedure

Post #4 below has another reference to a no-start checklist

One easy check for injector problems: SEE POST #5 below
"When injectors fail, it is possible for combustion gasses to flow into the fuel system and displace the fuel. The gasses come through the pintle seat and into the fuel galley in the head and up into the fuel filter.

Crank Shaft Position Sensor (CKP)
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Old 10-03-2012, 12:28 PM


Thanks Lilpooh lots of info there.
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Old 10-03-2012, 04:01 PM
Diesel Bomber


The best scanner and tool for you is the Autoenginuity, you can run all the tests and diagnose like the dealers do, it loads on the laptop and comes with the cables to hook up to truck, runs around $360, you can also get the Chevy and Dodge for it too, think they offer all 3 for around $1k, check out their site.

bobfbigman's Sig:O4 f350 crewcab SRW shortbed, Edge juice with attitude,Banks intercooler,Magnaflow 5" exhaust,CFM intake, Injen air intake, Amsoil bypass system, EGr went bybye,stock tire size,250k and still kickin, only parts replaced have been ICP and ball joints,drag link.....
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:55 AM
Mdub707's Avatar


Yup, AE with enhanced ford bundle is probably the best bang for the buck and works just about as good as the dealer stuff at a fraction of the cost. It's what I use. You can get the other packages as well when you feel the need.

I ordered it from KT performance right on here, $361 I think it was.
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:15 PM


Perfect thanks guys I will get one ordered ASAP.
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