the idi engines both interchange, and on the outside they are identical. so as long as the 94 is not a di powerstroke do it. some people actually prefer the 6.9 because the cylinder walls are thicker. but this only matters to engines that have suffered severe cavitation. 7.3's are more prone to cavitation problems because there cylinder walls are thinner. i hope everyone is using coolant SCA's to prevent this. -

jnicewan's Sig:

'98 12v, 4x4, swb, quad cab, auto, bd valve body and tc, 4" straight pipe. bd exh brake, banks boost, pyro, trans. afc mods, bought with some banks stuff? waste gate can, fuel plate etc... BHAF. 105k miles and counting

So if i put a three inch straight pipe, better flowing intake and turned the fuel pump 1/6 of turn clockwise how much of a power increase would that be around? Would anyone by any chance know? -

I did basically all wat u said, but wit 4inch exhaust and advanced my timing 5 degrees and put on electric fans. I dyno'd my truck and put down 150HP@2860RPM and 320LBS/FT@1840RPM. Mines a stick and thats with 33inch tires. -

Snowman's Sig:

My Rig's 1994 Ford F-350 SRW 7.3L IDI 5-Speed 4x4 4.10's
2006 Silverado D-Max LBZ, 33's, air box mod, need more upgrades!! Just Cause it Smokes, dont mean its Broke!!

Oh allright, mine is an automatic and it came from the factory rated at 170hp and 338ft of torque at 1400rpm`s. So by doing all of the stuff I mentioned earlier how much of a power in crease would that be? -

about 15-18 hp and 30-40 ft lbs of torque -

spoolinaround's Sig:

My FaceBook|ALL MY HILARIOUS VIDEOS OF CRUSHING AND DESTROYING CARS
98 Ram 3500 4x4 12V 0 Plate... Currently for sale
1993 Mitsubishi Fuso FE 439 Intercooled, 12' flat bed, pump maxed out 220 hp @ 20 psi
Daily driven and averages 25 mpg combined

That sounds about right for the gains! I noticed a difference! -

1/4 turn on the roller to roller will net about 10% more fuel. -

wtfd6's Sig:

2000 Ram3500

So a ten percent fuel gain is guite a bit of a gain im guessing right?
So by also adding 30 hp injectors to it, straight pipe, intake and turned the fuel pump a 1/4 of a turn, how much pwr would that add up to be in all?

Im guessing around maybe 50 hp and 100-120 FT right? -

I would prob guess around that, but that seems a bit high for the torque??? If u dont have a turbo u prob wont see that big of a gain. You'll prob end up drowning the engine with fuel and not c much of an increase. But were would u get injectors like that??? I can't seem to find any!! -

its very easy to over fuel an idi. especially with bigger injectors and even with a turbo. as long as you see black smoke you have too much fuel. also these engines run hot too. so i would keep a close eye on the egt. i found with my 94 turbo i can get more than enough fuel out of the stock pump and injectors with a max boost pressure of 14psi. and it will climb past 1200 degrees if i dont watch it. -

Whats the max you can "safely" turn the pump up? -

So the gains for my truck would be about 45 hp and 75 foot pounds of torque?
Because I want to get a 4 inch straight pipe, bigger injectors, different air intake and turn the fuel pump up a half a turn. If im gonna turn the fuel pump up at all, im definetly going to be buying a pyrometer. Yeah, only having 135 hp and maybe having 300 foot pounds of torque definetly aint gonna cut it. -

"Rotate the engine till the timing mark on the vibration damper is at about the 1 o'clock position as seen from the front of the engine."

Im not exactly sure what that means -

FarmDiesel's Sig:

08 3500 HeavyDuty 6.7L 4x4 6spd manual, Laramie quad cab, B&W hitch, 5" SS Turbo back DPF delete w/ duals... Straight piped EGR MIA. Edge monitor, S&B Intake, Valair DD clutch..... And SMARTY!!!
89 F-250 7.3L Single cab long bed, Dual 5" stacks.. And a hell of a lot of dents.

Everybody is talking about different air filters, where do you get them, or are they just talking about a K&N drop in replacement? -

WHATEVER YOU DO DONT TURN UP THE IP UNLESS YOU HAVE A PYROMETER
If not you risk blowing holes in the pistons and owing up your motor. The N/A IDI is very sensitive when it comes to this and there is very little rom for error. If you have a turbo, larger exhaust and a free flow intake such as a ramair setup these will help keep the EGTS down.



Yes you can, if it were me I'd stick with a 6.9, seeing as you don't have to worry about the cavitation issues
1200 for a minute or so would be as high as I'd ever push mine, anything above 1250 for an extended period of time is basically suicide
If your looking for a ton of power and mods you've got the wrong truck/motor combo, the IDI is no power house by any means. I've seen a dyno on a 83 or 84 F-250 with 6.9 and a banks turbo and that thing barely made 200hp to the wheels, if you want extreme power go with a powerstroke, or a P pump Cummins. If you want reliabilty and a good work horse stick with the IDI

The Harmonic Dampner that is mounts on the crankshaft has a timing line on it, usually a scribed mark across the width of the dampner, so what this is saying is that you want that timing mark to be at the one o'clock position if you were to be looking at the from t of the motor straight on, the reason yu want it in this position is because the Max fuel screw under the cover of the IP is visible when the mark is like this IIRC. -

Chevyboy_0's Sig:

Big Red- 1987 Ford F-250, IH 6.9L, B&W T-19, Custom Handbuilt SST/AL cold air intake, 5" 4' tall chrome miter cut stacks from an old Pete. Future mods, ZF-5, 4x4 conversion, turbo,
ALMYDOE-1970 Chevelle, first car, 350/TH350, lowered 2" front, 1" rear, holley carb, gear drive, flows, custom mix DuPont blue, American racing torqlite rims