Diesel Bombers SIGN UP NOW

National Association of Diesel Motorsports
Go Back   Diesel Bombers > Ford Powerstroke > Ford 83-94 6.9 and 7.3L General
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?
Search


Registered Members don't see these ads. Register now it's free!

Ford 83-94 6.9 and 7.3L General Discussion of 83-94 6.9 and 7.3 Liter Ford Diesels

Welcome to Diesel Bombers Forums!
Welcome to DieselBombers .com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Diesel Bombers Forums community today!


On my 94 idi turbo there is a rear disc brake conversion. It's awesome untill my calipers went so I replaced both rear calipers and pads then I bleed the brakes and now no pedal. I've changed the master cylinder and the brake booster and ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

Reply
 
 
 
submit to reddit
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 02-01-2013, 05:07 AM
Diesel Fan

   

Default Please need help quick!

On my 94 idi turbo there is a rear disc brake conversion. It's awesome untill my calipers went so I replaced both rear calipers and pads then I bleed the brakes and now no pedal. I've changed the master cylinder and the brake booster and bleed all of the brakes lord knows how many times. I've gone through a gallon of brake fluid bleeding. still no pedal. Could this be the proportioning valve? That's the only thing left I haven't changed. Also when I bleed the rear calipers the fluid comes out a little stream but the pedal does not go to the floor ? Only when the fronts are bleed it does. Little pressure being applied to the rear.. And yes I've made sure there are absolutely no leaky lines. Any help will be more than appreciated. Thanks
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 02-01-2013, 07:26 AM
autostroker's Avatar
BOMBARDIER

wesley.campbell.52
   
View Member's Albums View Member's FaceBook Profile

Default

did you adjust the plunger rod when you changed the master cylinder, it has to be just right or it will cause problems, Proportioning valve is unlikely but possible, should be able to crawl under truck and have a buddy push on brakes, should be a little nipple on valve that moves when brakes are pushed, if the little nipple moves then the valve is good. dont know much about the rear disk conversions, but might have to pump it quite a while to get the rear break callipers to tighten up against the rotor like they need to.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

does the peddle fall to the floor, or is it very hard to push?

autostroker's Sig:Make your truck whistle while it works!

Last edited by autostroker; 02-01-2013 at 07:26 AM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 02-01-2013, 12:34 PM
Diesel Fan

   

Default

No I didn't adjust the rod do your mean the rod coming out of the booster tht pushes into the master cylinder ? And how do you adjust it ? And the proportion valve has a nipple to bleed it but that's the only nipple it has on it and I have tryd bleeding it but nothing works. And the calipers on the rear are out they are touching the rotor

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

And yes the pedal goes to the floor unless you pump it really fast it will get real hard then just fade and I know it sounds like air but I just can't get any more air out of the lines ?

Last edited by Powerstrokin7.3; 02-01-2013 at 12:34 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 02-01-2013, 02:13 PM
autostroker's Avatar
BOMBARDIER

wesley.campbell.52
   
View Member's Albums View Member's FaceBook Profile

Default

yes, i mean the rod that comes out of the booster and engages the master cylinder, sounds like it might be to short, there is a tool for adjusting it to the right length, but i just turn it out until it wont let the MC go all the way on without pushing the rod, then i turn it in to where it will just go on flush and just touch the rod. that should get you really close. Had the same issue with one of my old trucks and that fixed it completly.

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

I dont remember the Prop valve having a bleed nipple, i thought they just pushed the fluid through and bleed at the brakes, have to force the valve in the prop valve one way or the other to get the fluid to bleed to the correct set of brakes, (front or back). but i may be wrong, been a long time since i messed with one of them, just sounds to me like the plunger rod for the MC.

Last edited by autostroker; 02-01-2013 at 02:13 PM.. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 02-01-2013, 02:45 PM
Diesel Fan

   

Default

So I just twist the rod by hand and it will move in and out ? Do I have to use a special tool? Well ill try it and let you know how it turns out thanks
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 02-04-2013, 07:17 AM
autostroker's Avatar
BOMBARDIER

wesley.campbell.52
   
View Member's Albums View Member's FaceBook Profile

Default

there should be a little "nipple" on the end of the rod that unscrews from the shaft to lengthen the rod out.
Reply With Quote
 
 
 
submit to reddit
Reply


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search


 
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 06:35 PM.

Copyright And Legal Notice Links Of Interest

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Diesel Bombers ® - All Content Protected Under Intellectual Property Rights Law of Registered Trademarks
Reg. No. 3,494,401 Cls. 100, 101 & 104 Under Int. Cl. 38
USE AT YOUR OWN RISK WE HOLD NO LIABILITY FOR ANY CONTENT RIGHT, WRONG OR INDIFFERENT

Protected by Copyscape Duplicate Content Check