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Hey guys, after filling up my 460 at the pump everyday after school, I decided to go diesel. I bought a 1992 W250 4x4 Cummins 5 speed as my donor. I already have the Cummins and Getrag in my truck. I'm now at the wiring ... JOIN NOW TO REMOVE TRACER

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  #1  
Old 07-16-2011, 09:30 PM
Backwudz91's Avatar
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justin.demos IRON TROOPER124
   
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Default 1987 Ford 12 Valve Cummins conversion

Hey guys, after filling up my 460 at the pump everyday after school, I decided to go diesel. I bought a 1992 W250 4x4 Cummins 5 speed as my donor. I already have the Cummins and Getrag in my truck. I'm now at the wiring stage and I am a little stumped. I've drawn some diagrams to help get a basic idea of what wires were on my 460 and how it should go to the Cummins. I am following Ford Cummins' instruction manual, and so I have hooked a 10 ga. wire from the small pole on the Dodge starter to the Ford solenoid on the fender. Then my battery cable from the large pole on the Dodge starter to my battery. The white wire to the fuel pump. I get nothing on in the truck (lights, tac, radio) unless I take the extra red wire (Pos. Choke lead) from my Ford harness and stick it onto the hot side of the battery. Even when I do that, the lights and accessories only come on when the key is in the "ON" position, and the truck will not start. I've tried switching the two wires from Ford harness, and I even switched the 10 ga. wire to the other pole on Ford solenoid, and then was I able to fire the Cummins up. However, I only had the key in the "ON" position (didn't have to bump the key) and the starter kept running with the engine Any help.input would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

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Well,
I removed the battery's ground cable from the Ford solenoid and just put it on the block, which caused only the lights to come on when my key is on. I put the battery back on the passenger side, put the ground battery cable back to the solenoid, and lights came back on. So....I'm gonna need a long positive battery cable.haha.Both the white/blue stripe wire and red wire I have left are both KEY ON, so I just splice into the line behind the pump?? At least I'm back on track

The Cummins in the Ford
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The ol' Getrag
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Backwudz91's Sig:Cherry - 1987 Ford F250. 12 Valve VE. ISSPRO Boost/Pyro. Denny T Stage II pin. Pumped turned up. G360. BW1356. D60/10.25. 456 gears. 6" Skyjacker. 37x12.5R17 MTRs. XD Revolvers.

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  #2  
Old 07-17-2011, 12:48 PM
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here is what you do, start allover. the ford stater soleniod on the fender, run a cable from the battery to one of the larger studs on it, then on the same stud attatch all of your fuseable links to it, that is where all the circuits on the truck get power from. the reason your truck is doing what it is is because when you touch that choke lead to the battery it is backfeeding voltage to your key on circuit. so i think your first problem is nothing on the truck has power, you need a large cable going to the dodge starter as well as a cable big enough to power everything on the truck going to the fender solenoid. then on the other side of that solenoid where originally the ford starter cable was bolted, that is where your 10 ga wire to the starter goes.

secondly, forget that choke wire thing, use your old positive lead that was powering the ignition coil to power your injector pump.

figure that out and i will help you with the alternator

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  #3  
Old 07-18-2011, 09:19 PM
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so was i right?
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:09 AM
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Looked right to me. Maybe we'll get an update shortly

EasternAggie's Sig:
"ol blue"
1994 Ford F-150: 12v Cummins NV4500
Mods: Amsoil 4510, 5" exhaust, ISSPRO pyro/boost/FP, tuned pump, CD 5x.014's
4k GSK, 60lb springs, 35/40 hybrid, Mighty Diesel head bolts, 6k HID's
Audio: Hi-tech music box, new door speakers, 12" Kicker L7, Kicker 750.1, Probox
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Old 07-19-2011, 09:08 AM
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Cumminsf150, I wired it just as you described it, and it still won't crank over, I used a test light on all my connections and they were good. However, I noticed that my ignition wire that goes to the "S" pole on top of my Fender solenoid was not lighting up on KEY ON or CRANK.

Here's is an updated diagram

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  #6  
Old 07-19-2011, 09:43 AM
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mattaconner
   

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ok , jump the two studs on the solenoid, if it cranks then you know you did it right, the solenoid may have a bad ground to the fender, i will get with yiu today on my lunch and figure it out
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Old 07-19-2011, 10:55 AM
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I jumped the 2 studs from my Ford solenoid on the fender, the starter started clicking and the fan on the Cummins was going back and forth, I held it there for a few seconds and my solenoid started to smoke
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:18 PM
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Hmmmmmm

Ill get back to this later, got to go to town right now.
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Old 07-19-2011, 12:37 PM
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so we need to determine of the starter works properly, take your 10 ga wire that runs to the small stud on the starter and toutch it to the positive battery terminal. If you do that and all is well then the engine should turn over. that ford starter solenoid is designed to handel the full amprage load of the ford starter, so it should be more than enough to do what we are doing. once you verify that the starter works, go back to that fender soleniod. take a picture of it up close so i can see how you have it set up. remeber some of them have two large studs and two small ones, and the others have two large ones and one small one. the small one marked s is the one you want hooked to the small wire with the rubber slip on connector from your key crank signal, the one that you didnt have power at, remember it runs through the clutch pedal switch, so that may be the problem with that.
from the diagram you drew last, you dont show any key switched start signal, also you show a + and a - on the start solenoid, keep in mind that that is not a ground, but simply a continuation of the key switch start circuit. You dont have to use the fender solenoid if you dont want to, since the dodge starter has a built in soleniod, you are basically using one to control another, But i would suggest you do use it as it is the simplest way, and keeps your ignition switch wiring stock. It worked on my truck, so i know we can make it work on yours. get us a pic of the wiring up close and we can get it to work.
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Old 07-19-2011, 02:30 PM
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OK, so I took my 10 ga. straight to the positive terminal on the battery. Starter clicked and slowly turned the engine over some, but didn't fire. I think my battery is about out of juice, but I just charged it yesterday. Here are some pics of my setup.

Starting at the starter
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Up to the battery...
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To the solenoid...
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And my KEY HOT & CRANK wire on the fuel pump (where the blue wire was)
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