Hi everyone.
New to the site. Lots to learn about my new project, a 1974 CJ5, with an 1.8L 4FB1 Isuzu Diesel. My build is a first to me in almost all ways. This is my first 4x4, and is the first diesel I have ever owned personally.

The 1.8L 4FB1 I found on CL, out of a Chevette, with @ 55,000 original miles. Auto trans was left behind, as of no interest to me whatsoever. Got it cheaper, too. I have been meditating on the concept for a year, so when I saw the 1.8L, I did some fast research, and I jumped. Parts seem to be a slight concern, but they are out there. But the tiny size and proven reliability should more than compensate. Actually just spoke with a guy who has plenty of spare motors just a few hours away...

And for those out of the loop, these weigh @ 368lbs FULLY DRESSED, and have almost ALL the features of a high end boosted diesel. Piston squirters, beefy steel rods and crank, ect... And can handle 15 PSI boost fine stock.

Please remember: Original CJ2a-M38a1 had same HP(@ 70), but the F-head motor was 100 lbs heavier...

Goals of the project are:
1) Mechanical injection exclusively. NO electronics on running motor. I don't care if it hurts economy slightly.
2) Cheap Fuel The ability to dump nearly any kind of waste/junk oil into the tank. Constructive input welcome here, but I have personally seen everything from used soybean oil, used motor oil, to old auto trans fluid used in various diesels (including common rail). No strange additives, mixing, ect. Works great, cheap, and easy. I have seen mid 90's Ford common rails burning just about anything. My personal thoughts are if the "junk"(filtered to 1 micron) is cut with diesel #2, you would have no real concern. Diesel #2 has a much higher sulfur content, which is very slippery...And #2 is STREET LEGAL in a diesel older than mid or late 90's(correct me if I'm wrong for OH at least). Just read the placard on a diesel #1 pump the other day. It said RECOMMENDED for older than late 90's...
3) Power Perhaps @ double or triple factory HP, which is possible.
4) Reliability
5) Simplicity
6) Cost (as in, as little as possible), but with a huge nod towards safety and reliability. And after buying the CJ, and the motor, I am WELL under my goal of > $2,000 so far. And still have plenty $$$ for trans., transfer case, and tires(which I feel will be the pricier items).
7) Fuel economy I know a 4x4 brick is not efficient, but if I can bag 30 MPG on the highway, I'd be happy. And no I don't want huge knobby swamper/mudder tires. Think I'm going with Dunlop Radial Rover A/T's @ 235/75R15 standard sidewall(or equivalent). They are fairly lightweight, same weight as a regular passenger tire (29 lbs). But also, 29" in diameter, with some lug. Great reviews, even off road and in snow. AND under $400.



I noticed a Isuzu P'up at another site, that is running an Eaton M90 S/C.

Worked very nice. Almost too nice, as the Isuzu 5 spd didn't like it. His MPG was way down as well, but I feel much of that was pulley ratio. He said 3 psi AT IDLE. I guess your economy did suck.
He used Cummins 4BT boost timing components installed inside of the Isuzu "Altitude Compensator". Also 6.2 tips in the injectors. It's of particular interest to me as the gentleman I bought my 1.8l diesel from threw an FORD M90 in(easier to mount and run ducting) along with a inter-cooler(i believe from a Saab). It reminds me of a modern radiator, with plastic tanks on either side.

However in the mean time I am tossing the idea @ of using it, as it is on hand, free and ready to roll(as far as the unit itself goes). Versus trying to buy/ship a turbo(or two) that probably wouldn't be quite right anyways. I noticed the T25's are too big really, and the T15's seem small. To use the turbine side of a T15, and compressor from T25, well, there's 2 used turbos I gotta buy, still have to have it balanced, rebuild the unit. Then fab pressure oil line, return...

Prelim very rough calculations if I use the M90 reveal @ 1 to .95 (appx) drive would yield @ 12- 15psi at 6,000 RPM's. The blower would live dang near forever. I know TECHNICALLY the M90 is way too big. But it's THERE and READY. I think personally for my project my goals are to get full boost at 5,000RPM(this motor's Red Line), and keep it conservative, as I won't go that high often(hopefully). I'd like to HAVE the power there, available, but actually use it as sparingly as possible(so I don't stand out like a lil ol' lady angering everyone else merging with traffic!) My biggest concern is parasitic losses @ cruise, and at redline. Tiny motor can't afford much HP to spare...But decent economy is also a factor, but then it WOULD be uber reliable, and 150 lbs torque is fine... And perhaps I could wire up a on/off switch to a A/C clutch, ala Mercedes Benz and/or Mad Max.

P/O garage, removing stock drive train.
Hard to see, but frame/suspension beautiful, aside from new fuel/brake lines.
Lotsa Body work to do, but complete body wise.
What repairs must be done, I don't have to research the original shape of the stamping.
Seats hacked, as well as the 1" cut fenders, quarters, and the cobbled square tubing "body lift".
Short nose going on.
Better pics soon.



Here's a crazy thing: I bought this motor UBER cheap on CL, before I did any research on Jeep transmissions. Or before I had the Jeep. Now, there is an UBER rare Isuzu Rodeo 2.6L I4 2WD 5 spd bell housing that mates MY engine(@ '82 vintage Isuzu Chevette sourced), with a T5. As in the SAME bolt pattern as the Jeep T5. Haven't looked too deeply into input shaft dia., or clutch components yet. But still, WHAT are the odds of THAT? A VERY kind soul met at an Isuzu forum found one in an AZ pick-your-part, pulled it, mailed it, no money up front. Received this "Holy Grail" last week.

Oh yes:
Also decided base color will be a "silver", as the base for the pixel urban camo.
An adaptation of this will be my "Nose Art".


And wherever there would be a single star on an M38, there will be a circle of 13...

 

Hey there....I had a diesel Amigo with the engine you are using. Go find an 80's 4x4 Isuzu and use the trans and transfer case...direct bolt up. Will give you five forward w/od. My Amigo got 32-35 mpg w/or without turbo. Took turbo off because daughter kept getting tickets. The 2.2 would probably have been betterfor your application. Make sure you install a new timing belt...and start looking for head bolts. My bolts failed @ 138k miles. If the belt slipps/snaps the engine will be scrap. Will look for photos. Also...check out So. American E-Bay. There are quit many Amigo's, P/U's down south.

 

Thanks for the advice. Appreciate it.

But I found out that an 1990-1997 Isuzu Rodeo(might be called something different in S. American Market) 2.6L I4 (gasoline) Manual 2WD has a T5 transmission. The T5 came in some 80's jeep CJ's stock, and MUCH stronger than the P'up 4 and 5 spds. What are the odds I'd randomly buy a motor first, and find out that it can bolt to a Jeep T5 with (ubur rare) Isuzu parts?

Starter is even in correct location.

Yes. The timing belt will be the first thing I do before I start the motor again(In storage until engine placed in CJ). Probably will buy a few high quality ones. Gotta love interference engine designs...

I poke @ Isuzu P'up and Planetisuzoo. Learned a great deal.

Update:
FINALLY got this home! Hard to borrow equipment with my schedule.
AND, just got a set of Military tailights(one glass lens), spare tire rack, '45 vintage 5 gal. "Gerry can"(already had a '51 can), FREE! PLUS, a buddy has a set of 15x7 NICE chrome wagon wheels that I can get CHEAP! I don't want the current 15x8's, as the offset causes them to stick out of the body a good 2 inches per side, and that doesn't go with the M38a1/military concept.
NO wheel flares...

 

This sounds like it's going to be a sweet combo. Good luck with the build

 

Thanks alot, Man!
I'd like to think so as well, and the numbers look good.
Heck, the M38a1 came with about the same HP, but weighed 100 Lbs. more.

Update: The PO said he had a set of original 16" military steelies, and he'd trade for my nasty 15x8 wagon wheels.
So, I think I'll run the 15x7's for now, and work on widening the military rims at a later date.
Having a hard time finding a short nose clip.
STILL have to go back down there and get the factory roll bar and axles.

 

Understand I am not wishing to be an armchair builder, I have previously owned many diesels, both import and domestic. Also, my build list for engine repower is very long. I do not believe you will be satisfied with the performance of the 1.8. The 2.2 is a much better swap for your Jeep. I (hopefully) have posted a couple of photos of my old Amigo. Without the turbo..was very lazy..although did get you there. Off road...not good. Not enough power to pull the hat off your head. We used mostly as road vehicle and test mule. I did significant underhood temp tests for air intake location. My wife refused to ride in it when I had the 2.5" black pvc through the hood with the temp probe in it. Intake air was 85 degrees cooler. You could tell the difference in operation. I do wish you positive blessings on your project..and the good thing is you can pull out the 1.8 and bolt in a 2.2 with not problems. You are correct...the Isuzu club folks are a great bunch.

 

Sir,
Thanks for the input. I appreciate your interest, and time to offer advice.

I am sure it will be slow before I boost it. But MPG is actually a higher priority than power.
At least at first. It's a Diesel Jeep, not a muscle car.
Weighs @ 2,000 lbs, and steeper gears than either the Chevette, or Isuzu P'up. So it will be quicker than either of those, even N/A.

I went with this motor for cost($300, 60,000 miles), and economy(I hope for @30MPG).
I already have the 1.8L, with a running spare lined up for $300. I'll have under $700 in TWO low hour motors. I have also been in contact with a Master Isuzu tech, who says this motor will be fine with upwards of 15+PSI boost in stock configuration...and there is a guy with a turbo'd P'up running 20 PSI, with 30,000 miles on the mod. These motors are VERY tough in design. He has NEVER heard of anything breaking on them, save the timing belt, which is 100% owner neglect and laziness. They have piston cooling squirters, VERY beefy steel rods and crank, heavy main webbing, high nodular iron blocks. They were available turbo'd everywhere BUT the USA. They were designed/built FOR boost.

AND, the 2.2 under boost is KNOWN for breaking rods.
Pretty common problem, actually.

I'll stick with the 1.8L.

Thanks again for the advice/opinion, and well wishes. Frame is nearly restored, and started on the tub. Hope to be running by early July...

 

I run 10 lbs of boost with the turbo installed. As mentioned in previous thread, I popped a head bolt. The Amigo had 4:10 gears with 235-85-15 rubber. Tried 9:50-15 and had to drive everywhere in 4th..use 5th on flat or downhill. Had a bunch of fun. The finally was getting rear ended by a lifted Jeep Grand Cherokee. Naturally...they had no insurance. I gathered parts...put it on a frame rack ..straightened it. By then...my Mrs. asked me to sell it...replace with something larger.

Keep us informed on progress.

All the best,

Ken

 

I see. So you did run boost on it!
Kewl the only prob you ran into was a head bolt.
Similar rubber to what I'll be running(235/75R15), steeper final drives(mine are 3.73, according to PO).
I found online between 400-1,600 lbs heavier than a CJ5, depending on what year Amigo.
What year was yours?

That really sucks getting rear ended by an uninsured.

I have been concerned about running LT/load range "C" tire sizes, as all that rubber lug gets heavy fast.
31x10.5R15 BFGoodrich all terrains is what I'd like but economy is pretty important.
And 40lbs. of rubber on each corner doesn't seem to fit into the equation.
I REALLY hope to be able to use 5th on the highway.

Thanks again Ken for the advice and input!

 

DieslJeep, what transmission are you going to be running in this? Depending on your OD ratio 3.73 might not be enough gear for that little motor.