I got the banjo fitting to seat correctly. I had to clearance the block a little bit to make room for the bulk and corners of the AN-6 nut. It looks beautiful, and does not leak, but it also does not work worth a crap either. When I first drilled the back of the bolt boss for this set up I made a too small a hole.
I will open the hole up more when I pull the oil pan to notch it to clear the front axle. I will try and add a extra drain port in the bottom of the pan at the same time.

 

one good thing to report TUURRRRBO. I got the 3in1 glow shift gauge and the tiny tach installed and working. The oil pan notch came out fine, not pretty but it gets the job done, I only lost about a quart of oil capacity. Turbo oil drain is thru the bolt boss in the block and working well. I bored out the banjo fitting and the block to .285"
on the not so good side, I am sucking air somewhere after the fuel pump pull. it will run for a 5-10 minutes and then starve out for fuel. Also on the not good side, Still no instruments at all. I have ruled out a bad instrument cluster itself. I finally found the cluster test procedure, for the gen 2 xj. ignition off, hold the trip odometer reset, and turn on the ignition then release the trip reset. This puts the whole instrument cluster through a self test, moves all the gauges and lights. So that tested good.
I will put in a new CPS sender today and maybe try and find a alternate oil pressure sender, I get a tiny bit of oil pressure gauge movement, really just from off the scale to "0" position. maybe I can test it with a rheostat of some sort. No joy on getting the temp gauge to work. I did put the OE sender back in and got nothing on the temp or the voltage.
If there are any gen 2 jeepers out there. I want to find a place to hook up the OE alternator harness. There is a small green wire that should be field , and it comes from the PCM.

Lets see if the CPS helps today

 

Yall don't laugh, but in a attempt to get the gauges to work, I tried hooking up everything electrical in the jeep as it was before the conversion. the only thing I could not do was the auto transmission connections, and I could not simulate a tone ring for the cam sensor. I hooked up all the injectors, the coil, the old alternator, O2 sensors, the works. still nothing. I get a tiny bit of movement on the oil pressure, which is a new untested sensor.
I did manage to confirm that the problem is not in the instrument cluster itself. after much searching I found a test procedure that tests the complete instrument cluster.
Also I ran some more tests on the Crank sensor, and I think it is good. The crank sensor puts out a 0 to 5 to 0 volt signal when the engine is turned slowly. There is a resistance test for the sensor listed in the Haynes manual, but that is the only place I have seen the resistance test, and my new sensor and the old sensor have different results on the resistance test. All other research has shown to go with the 5 volt rotation test.

going back to the cam sensor, I had the cam and crank signal wires jumped together, and that was not working. yesterday I pulled the crank sensor and was mucking about with the volt meter, and I was getting 5 volts on the signal and input side of the crank sensor harness. That was very weird. I cut the jumper wire and still had 5 volts on both. So there is something funny there. I cycled the ignition switch with the jumper disconnected, and the crank sesor is back to normal

Needless to say I am pretty PO'd about the no instruments thing, but the engine and all the critical systems seem to be doing fine. If it stops raining I will try and clean up the engine bay from the mess I made with all the extra sensors and try and go for a spin around the block
you can see the mess I made in the picture. The other pic is the hole inside the block for the turbo oil drain.
If anyone knows a Jeep electronics guru I would like to talk to one. I did get some good info from a Youtube channel called ScannerDanner

 

Some positive results. I found a connection I thought was part of the no longer needed auto trans controls, that was not connected. I was looking and there were both sides of a connector where the other 2 only have the left over harness side. Well I guess I needed that bit, hooked that up and all the gauges except the tach are working. But I lost the Aircon, a bit funny there.
I actually might get some road test time this weekend. unbelievable. I just need to re-locate the temp sender so I can use the OE jeep sender.
I still want to get the OE tach to work, but the " tiny tach is installed for now

 

SUCCESS. All gauges working Wow that was a lot of work for a pretty silly mistake to get the gauges to work. I got the OE tach to work. The Crank to cam sender jumper wire did not work for me. I had to make a tone ring for the cam sender. I used a combination of a couple of Bombers ideas. I glued a magnet to the water pump pulley, and cut the magnet off the cam sender. Then made a little bracket that mounts to the water pump bolts and shoots the modified cam sender at the magnet, hooked it all up and it works well.
I still need to sort out some little details. I need to finish relocating the water temp sender into the upper radiator hose. this will solve 2 issues. it will get the sender into good water flow, plus it will give me a access point at the highest spot in the cooling system to burp the air out of the system.
I have a small short when everything is turned off that is draining the battery. Tidy up all the wire runs, get a down pipe bent up and close the exhaust system. Figure out why the Aircon quit when the gauges started working? Then I can start on the biggy that will be sorting out an intercooler.
But yahoooo, I got working instruments.
I am going to put on a set of street tires and go for a ride around the block tomorrow
sorry about the crappy tone ring pic

 

Good to hear your almost ready for the first drive! Nothing like that first drive after all the hard work, good stuff!

 

quick question. if the idle is not steady, and creeps up and down over about 30 seconds or so. does that mean that my governor spring is too long?
I am trying to optimize my throttle foot pressure and travel before I permanently set the throttle cable support. previously I had lengthened the bottom side of the throttle bell crank to get more travel. I went back to the old shorter Arm ( less pressure on the foot) position. I thought I could go back to the old position because I am not using full throw at the low idle stop. Where before I was trying to get absolute full throttle arm throw from the arm hitting the post at both low and high positions. To get a 750 smooth idle I had to screw the idle stop screw in almost a 1/4"
I have managed to get the switched off electrical load down to 250ma. Where I was at almost 4 amps before. I had one of the wires on the alternator hooked up wrong. Big thanks to UsedKubotaman for sorting me out

 

The governor spring does not regulate the idle. The idle is controlled by a combination of spring pressure and centrifugal force created by the governor *****. There's a second smaller spring that provides this pressure. Unless you've had the injector pump out it should be fine. Are you sure you don't have a fuel supply issue, maybe drawing a little air?

 

WOW it drove! What a difference from the NA benz with the AW4, way better. It does go a little flat in first and second above 1800 rpm. But really takes off in 3rd. I am still at stock Carrier reefer IP rack adjustment. So there should be more power to come and still got to get intercooled
I have a date with the muffler man tomorrow to sort out the down pipe and exhaust. I am thinking to try and put as big a flex joint as I can get as close to the turbo as possible. Any thoughts on that??

Also still have this little problem with the engine not returning to set idle speed 750rpm. If you blip the accelerator it will drop back down, but sometimes it will not settle down, and or slowly creeps up. The return spring is plenty strong and the speed control arm is on the idle stop. So I am thinking the governor spring may be a bit too long???? Does anyone know about that??

I cleared up a lot of little details, got the aircon working again. Still need to clean up some left over wiring. But it should be street legal this week for sure. 1 year and 2 months in, with my work away schedule.


thank Kubotaman,. I did not see your reply earlier. I thought the DI motors did not have the extra spring??? Not sure on the air. I have had the fuel system open quite a bit yesterday and today. Since it is running I assumed there was no air. I guess I can bleed it a bit more tomorrow.

 

You think it has power, wait until you adjust the rack screw! Glad to see you got it on the road! I have mine idling @ 900, any lower and the alt won't keep up at night with the lights, blower, wipers at a stop light.