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2001 Cummins 5.9 Cranks wont start

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Old 04-14-2014, 12:31 AM
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Default 2001 Cummins 5.9 Cranks wont start

Hi Guys, here's my first thread on Diesel Bombers, and it's a distress call. Thanks in advance for any help! I've been doing research and I would like some advice.

Here's the problem:
2001 Dodge Ram 5.9 cranks but wont start.
230k miles, bought used 3 or 4 years ago and I believe everything is stock/original. I don't tow much, drove it as DD for 6 months this winter while fixing regular DD, now it is back to wood truck/getting materials for the house, only drive it once or twice a week. It's been sitting about 2 weeks now.

Some history:
I have a bad fuel sending unit/erratic fuel gauge, and ran it out of fuel twice in the last 2 years, last time was 3 or 4 weeks ago. That last time it took forever to prime the system, it had fuel to the banjo bolt on the vp44, never got it to spray fuel from the cracked injectors (I cracked 1,3,4,5 I think), and a buddy finally helped me get it started with ether. (Side question, is starting fluid as bad for the engine as some people say?) After that it ran as good as ever for 2 full tanks or more.
A couple weeks ago my girlfriend called and told me the truck started and died immediately (in the driveway). Not her fault, but I'm bummed I wasn't there to see what actually happened. I didn't think it was low on fuel, but due to the bad sending unit I can't rely on the gauge. I added 5 gallons diesel to be safe, but I cannot for the life of me get fuel up to the injectors. I am getting a little bit at the bike-tire-valve port on the right of the banjo bolt on the vp44, but I think it came out faster last time I did this.
Things I did recently/tried:
Replaced starter solenoid and batteries in the last year, good cranking, and I can hear the lift pump whining when I bump the started. No codes when I turn the key 3 times. I replaced the fuel filter last time it ran dry. It has fuel in the filter canister. I tried cracking all the injectors I can reach, no fuel. I cracked the vp44 banjo bolt and cranked, not much fuel, less than before I think. I tried a couple sprays of ether in the airbox, nothing. I'm worried I am toasting the vp44/injectors with all my attempts and I need help!
Other questions:
I know the lift pump on these trucks are crap. I am thinking about the basic FASS upgrade. Is there a pump in the tank too, or is that just the sending unit? If I drop the tank and replace the sending unit, what else should I do while I'm in there? Is there a way to isolate injectors/injector lines to find leaks? I read about the CR caps, but is there a way on the vp44s? Anything else I should be trying or that I am leaving out?
Thanks again for any help!
 
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Old 04-14-2014, 01:09 PM
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You didn't say if you checked for codes.
Can you pull your fuel line coming out of your tank, going to filter.
If no fuel coming out you know something is wrong with pump.
 
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Old 04-14-2014, 02:08 PM
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Hey AHolt - I turned the key 3 times and got the No Codes message from the odometer. Should I be using an OBDII scantool or is that method sufficient?

Do you want me to pull that fuel line and crank to see if fuel gets pushed out? Or just pull and not crank?

Thanks
 
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Old 04-14-2014, 04:10 PM
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Start with checking fuel pressure. Advance auto will have a loaner pressure gauge. Once fuel pressure is confirmed you can go from there. Just because the pump is running doesn't mean it's pumping. Ether is more of a concern with these truck if the grid heater isn't diasbled! We've seen a couple with some extensive damage caused when a ether filled intake horn exploded. It's not great on internals but seriously doubt a couple quick shots will cause any serious damage. Make sure to unhook the grids first! My vote is the lift pump has been dying, getting weaker and weaker eventually unable to supply enough to even run. That being said it's likely you'll replace the injection pump soon, may even be required this time. No reason to block any fuel lines, this system isn't a common rail design. As far as fuel pump It's possible there's one in the tank or on the block. Only way to tell what you've got is looking. If it's got an in tank the install is a bit more labor intensive!

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Last edited by mysterync; 04-14-2014 at 04:12 PM.
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