I have a 75' scottsdale and a recently acquired 6.5 from a 94' truck with ~190kmiles I am swapping the motor into the truck, anything I need to know to make this happen? As far as I know, this should be a very straightforward swap, and the only other component I need is the Radiator, which I have. I do not know if the tranny is diferent, I have a th400 which it came with in the original truck. Is the torque converter, or flexplate different? Can I use the same motor mounts? I have poly mounts for the engine and tranny, and I'm not at all worried about rattling the fillings out of my teeth because I don't have any. I got a new belt, harmonic balancer, water pump, t-stat, and intake exhaust gaskets, and other associated gaskets. I am going to be wrapping the exhaust and intake manifolds with insulating heat wrap to prevent heat soak, and cyl no. 8 problem and overheating. I am also trying to source a good place to get good glow plugs from to put new glow plugs in. This isn't a complete rebuild, just a decent start on one. I want rather trouble free operation for a while, until I have enough money to run it on WVO.

thanks,

Kevin

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it would be really great to get some feedback here, even a "screw off we won't help you" would be nice at this point, I have posted elsewhere with the same results and would really appreciate some help here.

thanks,

Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC

 

Howdy there first off welcome and you will have a sweet truck when you can put it all together,first things first a 1994 model 6.5 has electronic injection which means unless you have the harness and fuel pedal position sensor PMD you will have to switch that engine over to mechanical injection which you will have to get a mechanical injection pump.Second you will have to switch the engine mounts you will want to get big block 454 engine mounts for a 75 model truck they give you the clearence you will need for your down pipeand turbo without cuting and modifiying the frame which may comprimise it's integrety.thirdly unless you put all the money you will save on not buying diesel WVO is not good for Stanadyne injection pumps as they use fuel for pump lubrication and WVO is not a good lubricant at all and as for youre trans I'm not sure how well it will stand up behind the 6.5 my 85 with a 6.2 in it has what the refer to as a TH 475 and as you probally know it has 65 HP less than a 6.5 and a whole lot less tourque good luck and keep us posted

 

I'll check, I hope to god it is a 93' and not a 94' I prefer mechanical injection. The mounts you are talking about are the frames "part welded to the frame?", or the mounts themselves? "inserts?" I should be able to make the piping work the object here is to reduce the famous cyl. 7 and 8 problems by shielding them from heat, no better way to do that, than to add reflective material to the firewall, and paint the engine bay white "ever wonder why Nascar does it? see: Smokey Yunick" wrap everything to prevent heat soak, and keep all of the heat in, this may sound counterproductive, but I have it covered. The th400 is a medium duty tranny the one I'm using is rebuilt, I bought it from a guy in Pomona, and incidentally it is a th475, with vacuum actuation, I will need to change that to an electric one I think. I need to know everything about this build I am one of those that does planning planning planning, I am not a fan of pulling the motor and everything back apart because of something that could have been handled with everything apart.
items needed:
tranny switch
mounts?
IP, possibly
I want to go ahead and purchase everything this week and be done by Friday, no particular reason why.
Yes, I did correct all of your spelling mistakes, no I am not a teacher, yes, I am a bit crazy, what part of "Marine" didn't you understand? It is just a thing of mine, if I see it red, I feel I must correct it. All those years of typing up orders dammit.

thanks so far,

Sgt Kevin A. Davies, USMC

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go here: and check out the neat little project I worked on in 2010 Metal Mulisha thought it was badass.

I also have a post here:

 

in a stock 6.5td truck, the alternator feeds rpm signal to the tach gauge.

 

well, found out today it is a 96' for sure. I know I'll need a mech IP, what else is involved in this process? is elctronic better, I hope not because I like mechanical.
which pump to use, I found a few at the junkyard. all are for v-8's there were three others, but they had been outside in the weather and the shafts wouldn't turn, doesn't mean they cant be brought back, but I don't want to mess with them. I should be able to use some components from the electric pump like the lines so that at least should not be a problem
roosa master
db2829vp 3977j
3436305 22510364
gold edition
roosa master
db2829vp 3973j
3427604 22510360
stanadyne
p9s4746fdj
64276431813300c91

 

google bobbie martin and db2 conversions

 

*snaps fingers and slaps thigh* Hot Diggity Dog! thanks

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Ok, so I'm going to have to rethink some things, maybe. I have a th400 tranny, which will work, but what will I have to do to it? I need to determine which of these pumps can be used. I also need to verify that the parts I already have will work. I have a lot more work to do. I thought that this would be pretty straightforward, but it doesn't look like it now. It looks waaaaay more fun.

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anyone have a rundown on stanadyne part numbers?

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I need to source an 831 pump to make this work, or, rather, I should be able to re-use the shaft etc from the electric pump, this should be interesting. the other two that I found will have to make suitable replacements to swap parts around and I'll need to source a nitrile seal kit for WVO use, to prevent the seals from going.

 

your best bet is the db2 mech pump

 

I got that much, what I am wondering is if I can take the internals from the e-pump and swap them into a 6.2 pump to make a 6.5 mech pump that will work. As far as I know the only difference is the plungers size, which doesn't effect the inside housings inner dia. or inner workings.

 

why go to all that work when you can just swap pumps and turn up the mech pump