Chevy/GMC 6.2L and 6.5L Discussion of Chevy and GMC Trucks with 6.2L and 6.5L Diesel Engines

6.2 diesel glow plug relay LOUD

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  #11  
Old 11-30-2012, 07:54 PM
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All the connections are good, but where would it be grounded at? And the sound is coming from some internal part in the relay, it sounds like something moving back and forth constantly. And it vibrates.
 
  #12  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:01 PM
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I was editing my post when you replied so have a look at it again.

BTW,that is how the relay works.
Inside is an iron core with a copper washer,when power flows through the internal coil a magnetic field is created that pulls the iron core down-that makes the copper washer touch the heavy lug terminals and battery power flows from one big lug,across the copper washer to the other big lug where the glow wires are.
 

Last edited by racer55; 11-30-2012 at 08:07 PM.
  #13  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:08 PM
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Ok here's how I crank the truck. I turn the key on, flick the toggle switch, and the plugs come on. The glow plug light stays on for as long as I have the switch on. After about ten seconds I turn the plugs off and attempt to crank. If it doesn't crank, I repeat this until it cranks.
The switch doesn't work unless the ignition is on. The blue wires are the wires going to the toggle switch.
Could you explain more on how to ground it please?
 
  #14  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:31 PM
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I am kind of flying blind on this one without a wiring diagram.

It is likely that the stock wires went to a cold start switch originally and possibly to ground.

Since I don't know the internal wiring of the solenoid,I have to guess.

First connect 1 black end of a set of jumper cables to a battery negative,then touch the other black end to the relay mount and flip your switch and observe the result-is it better or the same?

If it is the same you might have to try the same thing only this time connect the jumpers not to the mount but to the small terminal that does not have a blue wire on it,be very carefull when you throw the switch that time-be ready to shut it off quick in case of a dead short?
 
  #15  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:44 PM
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Ok I will try this tomorrow. And also the relay itself has rubber washer to keep it from touching any part of the body... Not sure if this helps. I really wish my grandpa woulda left this alone or at least wired it right the first time

But if I do decide to have the ford solenoid, would I hook all the factory wires in the same positions as they are now? What about the two-wire clip that is on the two small terminals? Would I cut that off and use two small terminals and connect them via the screws?
 
  #16  
Old 11-30-2012, 08:54 PM
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OK I found some new information.

If the small wires in the factory wiring are blue and pink then:
The blue wire should be ground and the pink wire should have power,wire or test accordingly.

The directions I read said that the pink wire should already have power with the key on,the blue wire side should be what goes to the switch on one side and then to ground coming back from the switch.

Yours looks different from that?
 
  #17  
Old 11-30-2012, 09:00 PM
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If I am understanding right, much different. I have a pic on my first post on here. My wires are red and green. I'll mess around with it tomorrow because its cold and dark right now. I'll post if I find anything else.
 
  #18  
Old 11-30-2012, 09:12 PM
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Well if there is any kind of standard-red should be power and green should be ground,but who knows.

If it is the way I think it is,the problem could be that the relay is still grounding through the cold start switch.

If that is the case and it is defective,adding a ground to the small terminal that does not have your blue wire might solve the problem?

---AutoMerged DoublePost---

Also I can see 1 blue wire on a small terminal and I think that I see the other blue wire on the same side of the relay as the glow plug wires?
That makes no sense to me,the blue wire on the big terminal should be on the battery side or ground to work depending on where power is coming from.
Since it looks like the small terminal blue wire is connected to the green factory wire side,it would make sense that the other blue wire should go to ground-having it on the big terminal that the glows are on would cause your problem because it is trying to ground through the glows.

It would be something like trailer lights with no ground-when the signals are on all the lights pulse to some degree.
 

Last edited by racer55; 11-30-2012 at 09:15 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
  #19  
Old 12-01-2012, 04:25 PM
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Ok so here's what I have gathered after fooling with it today. The large terminal on the right (black wire) goes to the positive terminal of the battery. The large left terminal goes to the plugs. From what I assume, the red and green wires in the two pin clip that connects to the small terminal must go to the glow plug controller. The red is hot when the ignition is on. While unplugged, the green isn't. However, when plugged in, both the green and red is hot.

I tried grounding the housing of the relay. No effect. I tried grounding the green wire. Sparks flew everywhere. Although the noise did stop, the relay itself wasn't on, or was frying.
 
  #20  
Old 12-01-2012, 04:52 PM
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The factory glow controller should be on the back of the passenger side cylinder head,it will only activate if the engine is below around 130 degrees if I remember correctly.

So if you grounded the green wire,the glow plugs/relay did not activate?
 


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