i have a few questions,
first, i am getting ready to put in head studs, but i still need a head gasket, by going with the thicker head gasket, this allows for more clamping to be had and also protects head gasket failure better by allowing the head to be able to lift a little farther without the gasket failing?
also will the thicker head gasket lower compression slightly?
does anyone have any good port and polish pictures of a 12v head or know of any good threads to read up on? ill be checking the surfaces to make sure they are flat and or within tolerances.
does anyone know of a good spring compressor for doing 12v valve springs?,removal and instalation.
i also am looking into putting on a water meth setup because of the non intercooled nature of the old schoolers, so i found a interesting thread about how using lets say, a 200 psi pump, injecting into a intake manifold thats at a pressure of lets say 50 psi, our injection pressure at the nozzel then would theoretically be only 150 psi therefore the atomization process is being made less efficient at higher boost levels, which is when we want atomization to be at its highest. is this effect true? also is the only way around this, if it is true, is to go with a high pressure (1500+ psi) setup?

thank you for all your help here on diesel bombers, my truck wouldnt be anywhere near what it is today without your help.

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also if i add more than one zozzle, does the pressure and or gpm drop? or does the pump counter this by spinning faster, that way keeping the line pressure at 200 psi?

 

port and polish will not do much (my opinion ) you will notice your turbo pressure will go down because of less restrictions. (if you are trying to shove as much air because you are at max fuel, then yes this will help but you need compound set up or blower set up)

oversized gaskets will give you more material to mash, to really change the compression of a diesel engine and get result, you would have to change the piston, these truck are 17:1, to notice anything, you would need at least a 15:1, remeber, to change the compression isnt just in piston clearance, it is also in bowl size as well.

unless you are running 4,000 rpms and going to put on a exhaust brake, the factory springs will be just fine, putting on the 60lbs springs wont hurt.

 

Torkteknology.com they sell a 12v spring compressor that will compress both springs at the same time and save loads of time and headache. Works well in tight spaces too.


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awesome, ill check all that out, and im sticking with my 366 spring and no throttle stop screw. rpm wise research says it should spin up to about 3500, 3600 rpm in nuetral. i dont plan on trying it to find out.i have the 60lbs springs in their boxs here already. and a set of compounds sorta picked out. on another note, the other day i did a 1/8 test to see how hot i could get my egt's. suprisingly the trucks boost ran 37 psi, while my egt's maxed at 1160 and wouldnt budge any for the duration of the test. i think thats a huge improvement over being able to hit 1400 and still climbing(let off for fear of melting it down) the last time i tried this with the stock trans in and gov spring. my fuel screw is backed out as far as possible while still maintaining good oil pressure.

 

I'd like to know how high I've revved mine. My tach isn't accurate at all but I have the 4200 spring, 60# springs, fluidampr, and so on. Most say the VE can't flow enough fuel for those rpms, if it can't then I'm glad for it bc although smooth, it spuds like it wants to come flying out from the engine bay.


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haha, i would think what they mean by cant flow enough fuel at the high rpm's is, that it cant flow enough fuel to make the proper air fuel ratio to create more power at rpm's above 3200-3600 but it does flow enough to spin to 4,000+ rpm's. kinda see what im thinking?
because i believe i saw on a thread here or somewhere that free reving in nuetral a guy could rev it to 4,800(dont quote me haha this was a while ago) but once in gear he would only see 3700 rpm max because the converter stall vs the available power at that rpm could not push the truck any faster.

 

Makes perfect sense frosty, I've had the ol girl hummin down the highway bouncing the spedo wrapped around 85... I'm sure the truck was seeing 3400 or so and it was still pulling. I just liked the idea of the 4200 spring for sled pulling. No anticipations of spinning those rpms anyways, just for giggles


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do you think that the haisly machine valve spring tool will also work on normal(which are smaller sized) valve springs? i want to start my own shop one day and buying one tool to do more variations of valve springs is worth spending the extra ten bucks. to me it should work on both cause its bigger. what do you think?

 

I've seen the haisley spring compressor and it looks very comparable to tork teks tool, idk how prices compare but I've dealt with tork and I'll stand by them. I don't see where taller springs would hinder its operation given that's what it was designed with in mind... No one replaces stock springs with stock springs anymore :-p either one would be useful to have laying around.


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haha the haisly machine spring compressor is made by tork. its just ten bucks more. so if it works for both styles why not get it you know?