Ok, first post, so take it easy on me fellas. Sorry this is so long, but i wanted to provide all details up front and i don't wanna buy the wrong truck again.

I am hopefully a day away from selling my money pit OBS powerstroke. No mods, just fuel lines, CPS's, New trans, new glow plugs, new tires, and the reason it's not going away till tomorrow is a new #7 injector(came out to over a dollar a mile in maintenance). I got tired of borrowing my buddy's '97 12 valve when my truck was in the shop.
Assuming my truck goes away i will be traveling to Cogan Station, Pa to pick up a "new to me" 2007 QC LB DRW 3500 G56 Dark Blue Big Horn with 225K miles. Has had clutch replaced with new single disc, 60 hp injectors were done at some point, 5" straight pipe exhaust. First owner registered as a commercial vehicle. It's on second owner now. If anyone knows the guy selling it and can vouch speak up please. The truck appears to be very well taken care of, the only leak i could find was on the bottom of the front diff. It appeared to be very very slow as there were no oil spots on his driveway, and he is replacing the gasket before i buy. It has full service records on carfax from before he bought it. He just did all the front end wear parts, the breaks, and new tires. He also has an immaculate 2nd gen VERY built 12V flatbed that he is selling along with his 24V pulling truck and excavator so i believe his "i lost my job and need some cash" story. I don't think he is unloading it because it's a lemon. I checked the exhaust on cold start, no white smoke, fired up immediately with no injector lag or whatever. No black smoke when revving with no load. Front end is tight as can be. I hit some washboard action at 60 mph and no death wobble. Haven't done blow-by oil cap check yet because I'm taking it to a mechanic before i buy and getting him to do a compression test. FIRST QUESTION: Is there any other specific stuff that i need to make sure the mechanic tests?

SECOND QUESTION: #1 goal is NOT more horsepower or torque(i don't mind a little, but more power = more broken stuff). This rig will mainly be used to tow a 10K horse trailer and i don't want my wife to accidentally put our horses through to back door of the trailer if she side-steps the clutch, plus horses don't like Soot. I don't have unlimited funds, but i want to get 500k miles out of this motor. I've read about monotherm pistons and all kinds of other dream sheet builds. I plan on putting an Air Dog 150 set up in. Is there anything else i can do to keep this thing from catastrophically failing and maybe get a little better fuel mileage? My budget is about $2,000 after the purchase price of the truck. Also, does the Air Dog play well with biodiesel?
Thanks for reading my novel, any and all replies are greatly appreciated.

 

I've run B20 through my AD 150. Never an issue with it. Was a stock replacement clutch installed? Or who's single disc? Would be some nice info to know for your own personal knowledge of the truck. My .02... Install Air Dog, run some form of mild programming and drive it for a long a$$ time.

 

X2 on the clutch. Who is it from? Stocker wont like more than 75hp over stock. AirDog is a good plan. Truck already has injectors and exhaust so I would recommend a cold air intake of some kind. You can buy an AFE or S&B for 200-300 bucks or do a BHAF and save some coin. BHAF stands for Big Honkin Air Filter. There are threads around here on that. Then if you still have some money left, get some sort of tuning, Smarty, Edge, H&S. EFI Live would be great but thats a little spendy.

 

The current owner told me about the new clutch, said it was done before he bought it, but he didn't have any specifics other than single disc. What are the pro's and con's of single vs. double disc on the clutch? I'm not as worried about the clutch just because you can smell/feel it coming. My big fear is a rod coming out the side of my block when I'm 500 miles from home with two horses in the trailer. Instantaneous failure risk is why i don't want an automatic. I am on the fence about an intake. On one hand i like the mpg's and potentially a reusable filter, but i also hear they let a lot of extra particulate in????

 

I herd there was no use replaceing the stock air filter on the 07s and up because it makes no difference, or it may be for just the 6.7

 

If you buy it....get EFI live. Your life will be mucho better for it.

 

A single is a bit easier to install but once you get to the 100hp over stock and more they tend to get a bit grabby. My south bend single is rated to 500hp and its grabby as hell. Im seriously considering a double disk. Same clamping power but a smoother engagement and a double should last aslong as the truck. Dont worry about a rod coming out of your block. You got a Cummins with a manual tranny. You are good to go. Aftermarket intakes dont let in bigger particulate. They filter the same if not better than your stocker. Where the mpgs come from isnt the type of filter but more from the total area where the filter can draw air. The factory air box can be restrictive. I know your fear of being stranded with the critters in the trailer, I have 2 horses and 3 mules. After 8 years and putting 190K miles on my Cummins, I have never been stranded.

 

K&N filters actually do let more dirt threw than a factory paper filter. Thats why you want to go with a good dry flow filter like amsoil.

 

Does the Amsoil fit in the stock location or would i need to add an intake?

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2007 Dodge 3500 5.9 Blow-By Test - YouTube
Here is the youtube video of the blow-by test that i had the guy send me. Check it out. Does everything look/sound good?

 

K&N are junk and I would never recommended those to anyone.

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These are the only three I would run. I have ran an AFE on my 24v since 07' and when I had my 6.7 I had a AFE on that too.