Ok I brought this up a while back and still having a problem. I changed my front brakes a while back and since then the brake pedal cant make its mind up to stay hard like it use to be or be soft and work. I dont get why it did it right after the brake change?? I bleed no air, the fluid is good, I dont know if the brake booster good I would think so?? Only think I can think of that I know about is that the two rotors are not the same width, the idiots a NAPA, dont understand when I say make both the same size, MAKE BOTH THE SAME SIZE!!!! plus If I knew it was gonna take four hours to do an hour job I would have gone else where to turn them. But any how can the rotors be the issue??? None of the calipers are leaking anything? just baffles me...
Also no codes. Just made sure, any ideas or some one who had this problem be glad to hear, I think Im gonna end up spending a 100 bucks on rotors and redo the brakes and while Im at it the axel seals since we FUBAR one when I did it last time... I also have one more question how hard is it to replace the steering box?? Is there anything special I need to do or can I pull the pitman off and go? I was reading you had to align it??? I just have some play in the steering wheel and its cockeyed to the left so fiqure I drop the 300 bucks and do that and the 160 for brakes and another 160 to get my lift pump done tomarrow down here in arizona, great time for that to go Any advice thanks and RAW if you read this Im thanking you a head of time THANKS!!!

 

Brake issue: Not really sure. I don't think the rotor thicknesses are the issue here. How are the flex lines? Good shape? Was one kinked before? Check for line swelling when you depress the brake pedal.

Steering issue:
The steering box replacement isn't "hard", just time-consuming. Centering is a requirement, but it's just that: centering the steering. That part is easy.

Are you sure the play in the steering is the box, and not TREs and/or ball joints, track bar, etc.?

 

Ya the ball joints are good, everything just got replace in 2010. I can see the play in the steering box to if I have some one turn the steering wheel.I checked for kinked lines also I didnt see any I havent had someone depress them yet so I dont know if they swell, Ill be under the truck today replacing the lift pump in hell here in arizona...

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I can add this to Yesterday when I took a right turn with the brakes depressed it pulled harder then let go after I return to center?

 

I'm wondering if you don't have either a failing caliper or failing line.
I had a right-front caliper stick, and the pedal was hard as a rock when I bought the '01..

Here's the result..





Apparently, the previous owner knew of the issue, so his remedy was to clamp a small pair of vice grips onto the rubber line, up by the framerail...

 

HMMMMM, I wonder I wonder, Im just curious as to why it was right after I changed brakes.. My rotors dont look close to like that, I know a caliper isnt hard to replace how hard is it to replace the line?? I will do a more therough look here in a minute...

 

It's quite easy, to be honest, provided the rust isn't too hateful. beings you're in AZ, I think you'll have no problems..

 

Well my lines look good, maybe its a caliper?? I just baffles me they work great for a while then not so great then back to great...
The brakes are hydaulic assist I know that, but even when they dont work so great they work but I ask it all from them they seem weak...

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Im from cloroado in AZ for personal stuff, kinda stuck here without my tool chest... Till next week. But then still I dont have a whole lot of rust truck pretty clean.. thank god..

 

yours is hydra-boost, not vacuum, correct?

 

X2 on the rust! Its brutal changing brake lines here in New England

 

CALIPERS ARE PRETTY CHEAP, GO THAT ROUTE! EASY TO REPLACE. ONE OF THE SEALS IN THE CALIPER MAY BE BAD.