Originally Posted by BushWakr

>>Installation of Governor Spring: Bosch #1-464-650-366
in the Bosch VE Injection pump.

There is some dissasembly of the VE pump required to complete this modification. Keeping the internals of the VE pump free from dirt/dust/debris is extremely important.
The following instructions may not be 100% complete since most of us, including me, are not pump tech's.
This mod can be done with the pump on the truck.

1) Mark current pump timing locations on pump and gear cover, then loosen pump and let drop towards the drivers fender.
2) Disconnect the throttle linkage at the throttle arm/lever on the pump.
3) Remove the TPS, AFC cover and diaphram/cone from inside.
4) Mark/note position of all the screws such as idle, full fuel, high idle etc.
5) Remove the idle screw, full fuel screw, this is needed to access the 4 main allen screws that hold the pump top on. You may get away with leaving one or two in.
6) The allen screws on the back (engine side) of the pump top can be hard to reach but you MUST have a good grip on them even if you need to tap/hammer the allen key down into the allen heads.
7) Remove the 4 allen screws.
**NOTE**
The allen screw on the fender/front side of the pump serves more than one purpose. It holds the throttle shaft in place, the spring(s) underneath such as the "breakover spring" and the head of this allen screw is were the TPS shaft rides, on the auto tranny equiped trucks. Once the screw is removed look down into the hole... you'll see a tiny slender black stem with a slot in it. This slot position is very important since it is the "index mark" for the throttle lever.
The allen screw noted comes off in the following order; allen screw, throttle lever arm, breakover spring, washer,
(at this point you should see a flat plate with tick marks like a clock on it. Note the position of the slender black stem in relation to the tick marks. In most cases the slot in the stem will align with the second from bottom and second from top tick marks... kinda like 4:00 and 10:00 so to speak.)
Try to leave the lower spring, cup, mount in place. Once you progress to removing the pump top, you will loose some fuel from inside the pump so have a drip pan below to catch the dribbles.
9) VERY CAREFULLY lift the pump top upward about 1 1/2" while looking at the back (firewall end)engine corner inside. You should see a slotted piece of metal with a what looks like a tophat w/tiny spring IN the slot (careful this puppy can jump out on you and an extra pair of hands makes this part easier). On the inside END of the tophat is the one end of the gov. spring. Using forceps or tiny needle nose pliers, carefully unhook the spring from the end of the tophat.
10) Turn pump top over and remove the other end of the gov. spring from under the pump top.
11) Attach one end of the new gov spring to the underside of the pump top, and very carefully attach the other end to the same spot on the tophat. (don't worry, you can put the spring in the wrong place, just be slow and careful.)
12) Lower the pump top back down in place, shifting it slightly to seat it in place.
13) Check your index marks as you begin the reverse process of assembly. (Most mistakes are done here so take your time)
14) Tighten the allen screws to "just right ft/lbs torque" (sorry I don't have torque specs for this but you should be able to tighten by feel.)
15) Reverse the proccess of dissasembly and tighten as you go.
16) Once all the screws, AFC, housing,TPS, etc are in place, return pump to timing marks you made on the pump body/gear case and tighten it down. Here you'll have to get as close as possible to original screw positions for your idle, high idle, full fuel etc.
When you've gone over everything 3 or 4 times to make sure you've done everything, you're ready to try a start up and idle.
**NOTE** Remove the air inlet tube from the turbo inlet and move to the side. Have an emergency board or whatever to cover the turbo inlet in case of runaway condition. BTW, using your hand could qualify you for the handicap award and being named 3 finger Dave or Stumpy.
A second set of hands helps here too, while you activate the manual shutdown lever (in case of runaway) your help can cover the front of the turbo to starve the engine of air)

17) Start the truck..... hope it keeps running. It may need a couple tries due to fuel loss from removing the pump top.
It should pretty much start right up.. it may stumble and clear up OR, you'll have to re-prime using the lift pump handle or plugging the filler spout with a rag and shooting compressed air in with a nozzle/air hose to force fuel thru to the pump. (If you do it this way, make sure someone is watching the low pressure bleed screw on the side of the block and tighten it when you get a steady stream of fuel from it.)

At this point it should be running. Try 'burping' the throttle a few times. Make sure that the engine returns to idle promptly as it did before the spring change. If it lingers at higher RPM and slowly drops down, take that as a sign of being close to runaway condition. Back out the full fuel screw 1/4 ~ 1/2 turn, restart and try again. I also recommend running your high idle screw in a fair bit to make sure you can "work up to" you intended high idle setting and avoid RPM flare.
You should be able to reset your low idle, full fuel, etc without too much trouble.
Take a test drive at this point and watch your EGT's, idle, etc.

**NOTE** ok, I may well need to "tweak" this text file till it has all the bases covered. Hopefully I haven't forgotten anything major.

Edit: I have forgotten something... credit for this set of instructions should be noted..thanks to KTA Cummins, Monty, jughead and my own install contributed to this set of instructions.


Bob~ aka BushWakr.