I have updated my sig to current equipment. Had an injection pump leak, I knew the injectors needed work. So I sent the pump and injectors off to get gone through. Had them set it up for 250hp. Now while the pump was off I installed my egt probe (pre turbo)and Trans temp ( in the hot line)sensors. Along with a rear main that went out from the fuel leak and a 47rh. My egts are between 650 and 950 while cruising ( no throttle increase) empty. When getting on it real hard I can get to 1250 but won't get over that even on a 20 second WOT pull at 25-28 psi boost. Is that high for cruising? How do I manage them with out backing down when towing. Next is, with a lockup, what kind of Trans temps are acceptable? I haven't seen over 190* yet. I have a resistor in the temp sensor connector and a thermistor in the hot line.

 

Best way to lower you EGT's would be to upgrade your turbo. If your EGT's don't get any hotter than 1250* when towing you should be fine, although in my opinion that is the max. On my personal vehicle I would want to see 1150* or less. You can hit temps hotter than that as long as it is limited to a few seconds (the heat doesn't have enough time to "soak in" and melt stuff).

 

That being said about the turbo, would a wh1c be a candidate? What size exhaust housing? How big of compressor wheel? I know ANYTHING is an upgrade from an h1c but what are some options.... Aftermarket, hx35, just do a compressor wheel upgrade?

 

A bigger exhaust will drop your EGTs a decent amount, too. 3" is a bit restrictive.

 

Like 200* or 500*? I'm thinking the diamond eye 4". Best price I've found!

 

I would guess 50* cooler.. The restriction is in the turbo. I have a 4inch and with my mods I can barely get over 1200*. I think i've gotten to 1300* once.

The wh1c is an upgrade over the h1c but not by much. It will flow better but I can't tell you how much cooler it'll be. Same with the hx35 over the wh1c. You don't really need a small exhaust housing with an auto since you don't really lose boost between shifts.

What is your budget like?

I would also get a bhaf instead of a k&n. And if you still have the factory airbox drill some holes in it or remove it.

 

X's 2 Your mill will run much more effiiciently with a larger exhaust, and that should also bring down your coolant temp as well.

 

Why a bahf compared to a K&N? The stock intake is MIA. I had planned on doing the DE exhaust just not that soon. I can catch 900 quick, and then catch 1250 fairly quick. I have a 4 year old wh1c, in good shape. I want to try free or inexpensive before tossing 1k at at charger for the truck.

 

If I may jump in, the K&N will let fine dirt/dust through. Its just not very efficient in filtering intake air. If you have one, take a look throught it while facing the sun. You will see tiny "pin holes" in the media. That is more than enough to let in fine dust. A BHAF or a dry-element air filter (the size of a BHAF) is far superior than a K&N. I speak from experience with the K&N. Its also a well known fact.

 

The only way to dust a turbo faster than using a K&N is to run it with no filter.