i pulled and cut my fuel plate the other day. now the fuel shut off solenoid takes a few minutes to shut the motor down or wont allow it to start without me manual pulling the arm up. i removed the solenoid and checked it over but it is still acting up. my question is without the solenoid on should there be any resistence in the shut off arm whene moved up or down? could i have damaged something by pushing it aside when i removed my afc?

ledfeet's Sig:

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I'm thinking you pulled it back too far.
It worked fine before this right?

rubberfish's Sig:

Bob

There shouldn't be hardly any resistance until you get to the last 1/4", then it'll move a little bit more with a fair amount of pressure. In either case, the solenoid should be plenty strong to lift it and drop it, it has a pretty hefty spring in it. Check to make sure the solenoid isn't binding up on itself, sometimes the boots get torn and dirt and crud get in them, and bind them up, kinda like what happens to us if we eat too much cheese!

I did a write up on how to install a "Pull to Kill" cable somewhere here, if thats what you want to do just search for it. Its a nice little option, I like being able to park at a gas station, take my keys in with me, but leave the truck running. Plus it scares my buddies when we're going down the road and I pull the keys out of the ignition.

MotorOilMcCall's Sig:

99 2500 RC 4x4 5-Spd - Quad XZT, Leveling Kit, 35" Nitto's up front/Pro-Comp's rear, Ranch Hand Bumper, PPE Lift Pump

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I searched for the pull to kill post but no luck. I found that a push to kill cable just won't do it! Help!!!

more than likely you either bent the shutoff solenoid rod or you bent the bracket it mounts to that accually shuts the fuel supply off. take the solenoid completely off and look at it and the bracket that moves that it attaches to. move them both up and down and see if there is any resistance there. if there is none in either of them then that means there is an issue where the solenoid rod attaches. it is either bent/out of alignment or dirty.

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hey when mine did this i had accidentialy broke off one of the power wires going to the relays mounted on the fire wall, look for the end of the wire hanging down below your left side battery, just strip it back and hook er back up and you should be good to go
the fuel solinoid is a electromagnet w/ a spring shut off, upon start up it uese extra voltage to pull it up and then less to keep it there, and at shut off should release, if the power wires are ok check your relays and your grounds,

gone ropin's Sig:

1996 dodge 3500 4x4 slt larmie, auto, ext cab,17 degrees timing, 90HP injectors, exhaust housing off of 91 dodge,,4 disc converter,straight 3" exhust, bhaf,

wifes truck :2000 1500 sport gasser,{at least its a dodge}360 cid, auto

i have a 97 dodge turbo diesel i can not reove the fuel shutdown soliniod.

my 96 had a problem with the solenoid shutting off slow and sometimes not turning back on. did some reading on it and I was convinced it was the little relay on the firewall, inboard of the master cylinder. changed that out but my problem was the wire had 'mostly' broken when I was in screwing around with the pump, just bumped it apparently and it pulled the wire out just 'nough that it cause intermittent problems. don't remember specifics of where it was at; but check the wire from the batt to the fuel shutoff relay first, then check the relay.

greasemonkey's Sig:

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Manual Shutoff

Link to the full writeup I did on installing the cable, along with part numbers. Looking back on it, if you can fabricate some little stuff, and have some wrenching knowledge, just get a $10 PTO Cable from TSC or the likes, its the same thing...

I was thinking that the solenoid had two different sets of windings in their that weren't connected. A pull in winding then a hold in winding. Most times its the pull in winding that doesn't have enough oomph to pull the solenoid in but it will stay up if you turn the key on and push it up manually. Thats what I thought though I could be wrong...

your right, if you look there are three wires on the shutdown solenoid connector, one is a ground, one is power for the pull-in coil, and the last one is power for the hold-in coil.

keithduke01's Sig:

96 3500 2wd 5sp Cummins, 230 inj, #0 fuel plate, BHAF, deleted AFC, swappped 4:10s for 3:50s, silencer ring MIA, boost, pyro, '05 emblems, HID headlights, towing mirrors, 6" Bullhauler stacks with lots of smoke!

i had the same prob. i found the rubber boot wrapped around the spring and shaft that goes into solenoid. after cleaning this up i tried to operate and it still would not work. i took the large honking relay off the firewall and replaced it with the trailer relay from my fuse box by the battery. this fixed the problem. that relay is around 60 bucks to replace since it handles some high amps. the little relays handle about 30 amps and are cheap. i guess operating the solenoid bound up burned up the relay. hope this helps.