Looking for a nice trailer harness
 

im looking for a company that makes nice trailer wiring harness

i have everything working on my trailer right now but some of it was hacked by the PO and i would rather just replace it all and rewire the whole trailer with a good harness, so i will have no problems in the future

I've never seen a so to speak, pre-made trailer harness. You just get the plug and start running wires to it. Trailers come in so many different lengths and lighting configurations that a ready made would never be right. This is if I'm understanding the question right.

ya you are
my reasoning comes mostly because i need tap into certain wires down the length of it for side markers, brakes, etc
and the way the PO did it is he just cut the 6-wire, and used connectors on each wire

i would like to be able to tap into it without having all the exposed connections

The cleanest way to do this is with what they call a Junction Box. You run all your wires into it and then they fit over the appropriate screws that have all the wires from the plug running into it. Makes water tight, clean and conveinient connections.

Last time I went looking, Redneck Trailer Supply had some pre-bundled wiring for 6 round plugs. Don't remember how long they were right now, I want to say something like 30 - 40'. They also had a shorter peice with the plug and like 4 - 5' of wiring.

If you go that route though, you end up just butchering it to get to all the mutliple places each wire needs to supply power to. Just maount this junction box someplace out of the way under the toungue and run your wires to it. http://www.luckyb.com/44.htm Scroll through to the junction box.

Guess that would work on a trailer with alot of side markers or something. My lowly old stock trailer could probably get by with hacking the one wire to feed the 7 marker lights.

I just like these boxes cause if you ever have short it's just to easy to track and isolate it. Fixing any wiring issues is a snap. Even on a stock trailer you have the forward amber side markers, the front clearance markers, the rear side markers, the turn/stop signals, the rear clearance markers and then on most the additional interior light, backup lights and fender markers. That's alot of connections somehwere in that system. If you run one wire to cover lots of em then you end up chasing your tail with one light giving you problems.

I see your point, it's nothing more than an isolated set of studs to put eyelets on right? Or atleast thats how it lookded from the picture in the link above (but it was kind of small).

That's all it is. With this you can put every light on it's own wire to make everything simple. I like simple.

Yes, simple is always good. I'll haveta keep this in mind when I undertake rewiring my stock trailer. But that'll be after I get the rest of the bottom and floor replaced, lovely design S&H has on mine.

Should be pretty easy for the floor. On the front or back end of the floor it should just be a piece of angle that the flooring sits on top of and then over the top of the flooring is just a piece of flat stock spot welded in place. You just cut those spot welds with a body grinder and all your floor planks fall right into place. In my young and dumb days I use to use a floor jack under the middle of the trailer to put enough of a bow in the planks that they would slip into place and then lower the jack. As the center of the board dropped and went straight they would fall into that groove, but that got old after doing a few of them.

What's wrong with running them in series? Are the last bulbs quite a bit dimmer than the first ones?

junction box seems like a nice idea
i would just have to get a couple 2 wire setups and 3 wire setups to run from there
thanks

Nothin wrong with it as long as you use heavy enough wire. This is how most new trailers are wired. But it sure is a buggar when you are having problems to track things down especially when wires are run through box tubing or something and you can't get to them with a tester. With this junction box you can test every light from one place. You can even run a jumper from a battery and light each light up individually to test them if you needed to.

Nope, I think it's been replaced atleast once before.

What they (S&H) did on mine was take the 14ga. (really thin sutff) metal for the side panels continue it down and bend about 4" over and mounted the floor to it. One lil rust spot quickly gets bigger in that situtation. The only thing that gives it support are 4 peices of 3" channel iron (at the front, rear, and where each center gate is) and the tubing that makes the arches the roof sits on. I let it get to bad on this last round of moving cows around I cut to tight and about tore off the LR leaf spring mount. Hell the only extra support where the axles are is a 1" piece of angle iron. It's a "Bull Hauler Special" model sure aint built to haul em very well IMHO.

I have already replaced the rear 1/4 or so as it was really bad (could stick your foot thru the gap when a cow was in there) and I should have gone on up to where the front axle mount is but I didn't have the time. I cut off the thin stuff and then welded lengths of 4" anlge iron inbetween the arches and bolted the floor to that with carriage bolts.