Best truck for under $5000?
Hello-I need some help regarding truck buying
What's the lowest price for a used 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel? I only have 5k to spend on it, and craigslist isn't really giving me a good idea. Might just be where I live. I don't care about any brands, bed size, cab size, engine type, it doesn't matter. The only requirements would be dual airbags and not completely rusted through Any help? I live in the midwest:humm: |
Originally Posted by U375D
(Post 614048)
Hello-I need some help regarding truck buying
What's the lowest price for a used 3/4 ton 4x4 diesel? I only have 5k to spend on it, and craigslist isn't really giving me a good idea. Might just be where I live. I don't care about any brands, bed size, cab size, engine type, it doesn't matter. The only requirements would be dual airbags and not completely rusted through Any help? I live in the midwest:humm: You should be able to find a few, there going to be very high miles for that price... |
You had me until dual airbags.
I bought an ex-military blazer, and I love it! You may have a few kinks to work out as these trucks are 20+ years old, but you should be able to find one for ~$2k if you look. If you get the military truck (not sure the civilian term for this one), it's actually rated at 5/4 ton. No typo there, 5/4 ton, so if that's important to you, I'd look into it. Good luck. |
Originally Posted by CSIPSD
(Post 614081)
Dual air bags would be a Superduty, or 2nd gen Dodge...
You should be able to find a few, there going to be very high miles for that price... |
bought mine for 3k with 240k and little rust.
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- were in the midwest do you live? i could find you something if your within driving distance of the cleveland area. |
I sold my FORD 1999 F-250 7.3 PSD SUPER-CAB LONG-BED with 141,000 miles NO RUST for $4,000:humm:
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the 5/4 ton is a CUCV. There's a lot of different variations, but standard they are a 6.2L non turbo motor, turbo 400, NP208 or 205 (depending) transfercase, 14 bolt rear with a detroit locker and 4.56 gears, and a Dana 60 front, some fronts came with a Limited slip depending on it's package. they can be had with low miles and clean body for around $3k.
Max speed is roughly 55 on these trucks, you can get close to 70mph with a 35-36" tire. The pulling capability is limited due to the motor being a dog, But these trucks are solid mechanically and make great candidates for a 12v swap and OD trans. |
get a late 90's 6.5. it has airbags and there not as bad as people say they are.
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i just found a 1996 dodge cummins 12v 5 speed manual for 5000 with 200K which for a cummins really is just breaking in you just have to be patient and look around and talk to people
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just have to be careful with that kind of mileage on a 12v. the motor is fine, it's the transmission and front end components. if it has never had the front end gone through and freshened up then it may turn into a money pit
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Originally Posted by Jakemd98
(Post 636804)
just have to be careful with that kind of mileage on a 12v. the motor is fine, it's the transmission and front end components. if it has never had the front end gone through and freshened up then it may turn into a money pit
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Originally Posted by EasternAggie
(Post 636986)
what on earth could be wrong with an NV4500 with 200k miles? clutch would be the only thing I could think of that would go out on a manual tranny..... :humm:
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the trans is brand new the guy who had it before this guy replaced it before he sold it and this guy drove it for like a year and then parked it cause he bought a 04 cummins
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yeah im not trying to knock the truck. I honestly would love a 12v cummins, just making sure the OP is aware of what to look out for.
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i appreciate the input from you all what are easy mods for pwer for cheap
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the 12v is super cheep to tune. First off you NEED gauges before playing with a 12v, the motor is all mechanical so there is no computer to shut you down when it gets too hot. then fix the killer dowel pin. now your ready to tune... start with a 4 or 5" exhaust, a BHAF, drill out a elbow for the waste-gate. Then pull off the AFC housing, grind down your fuel plate or buy a higher performance one, put in a new governor spring (3k or 4k), and then adjust the AFC housing. and there you have it... now you have a healthy running 12v for the same price or less than what some pay for a programmer.
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cool thanks for the info this guy im buying the truck from wont answer his damn phone starting to irritate me!!!
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Originally Posted by 12vcumminspower
(Post 636660)
i just found a 1996 dodge cummins 12v 5 speed manual for 5000 with 200K which for a cummins really is just breaking in you just have to be patient and look around and talk to people
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i have plenty of friends rockin thers at 200k with not a problem
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Originally Posted by Jakemd98
(Post 637037)
5th gear tends to go out on the 4500's especially when the PO torques it hard in OD.
---AutoMerged DoublePost---
Originally Posted by bobcat67
(Post 637453)
I wanna know who told you the cummins is just getting broken in at 200k, that's absolutely ridiculous, it's closer to being broken than broken in
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honestly i will prolly tow with truck once in awhile but it will be more of a DD and fun truck i can throw my friends in go to the mud or the hills or just cruise around i love the way a cummins sounds and drive they are the best truck i use to own a ford and love them but i love dodge cummins a little more
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Originally Posted by EasternAggie
(Post 637669)
Well yeah but thats hardly a major fix..... an auto would have much more extensive problems at that mileage.
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- as for the 200k thing... the motor should not have any issues. My problem is the truck starts to see a lot of wear and tear. I had looked for a long time for a 12v before i got my Wagoneer (it was cheap, but should have held out for the cummins) and most of them had interior issues, needed all the steering components replaced, had a very tired trans, and/or paint and rust issues. lets just face it 200k is a lot of abuse on a body and components, not to mention that the axles may need to be refreshed (carrier bearings, wheel bearings, ect...). |
yeah but hey over a few motnsh and some time i could have all that replaced my buddy is a diesel mechanic so i could get all this replaced quickly you know, its a manual trans so im not worried about the trans and this guy didnt do much with the truck i have looked at the under carriage and no rust or anything needs a new driver seat and sterring wheel cover thats it ill have pics posted soon
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sounds like you got a nice one then. happy for ya, have fun and enjoy!
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yeah now i test drive it tomorrow and then talk prices, i dont know yet im hoping i get it :jump:
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Originally Posted by EasternAggie
(Post 637669)
well if you drive your truck the way that's displayed in your sig, I wouldn't doubt it dude :humm: |
Originally Posted by bobcat67
(Post 638688)
hrm, to me it looks like pretty mild driving compared to what alot of people do to their trucks on a daily basis, and I understand better than alot of people you pay to play, but hte cummins isn't always the end all engine, there are no better options for 5k than what he is getting I will agree
It's just I would never take a nice new DD through mud like that, its pretty hard on every component of the truck and not just the engine, but thats just me. I leave that to the old pieces of junk. But if you've got the money to play...... then more power to ya. And I agree. If you can find a good running 12v with around 200k for about $5k around here, you're getting a steal. People hold on to them pretty tightly in my area. |
yeah they do the same here, but this guy is loaded he isnt hurting for money any time soon, so im going to jump on this if i can i mean even if i have to put a little money into it im sure it will be worth it you know
---AutoMerged DoublePost--- does anyone have pictures of how to move the fuel plate forwards and turn the pump up?? |
You can probably find a 12 valve in rough shape for that price but they are still good engines
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