turbo blown? WAAAAHHHH!!!
 

Son called yesterday from Utah. Suspects that the Libby's turbo has blown. Says my daughter-in-law thought she heard metal-to-metal. :eek: I guess he looked up information on the internet, and found that it's not uncommon. Does the EGR system shorten the life on the turbo? It's an '06, and somewhere north of 100K.

I have always been told the EGR will shorten the life of the turbo as well as the head gaskets. The EGR, by its nature, will increase the operating temperature of the engine which stresses the engine.

Seems like a delete kit would be in order. Son also says that a lot of them have central-bearing failure, due to insufficient oil flow. Not a happy thought, but, at least a replacement doesn't have to be hideously expensive. Found one, new-in-box/aftermarket for $750, and son knows a guy who likes bringing Diesels back to life. If, indeed, the turbo is toast, I might obtain both a new turbo AND a delete kit. Make it run better anyway, with just clean, cool air.

I would do delete it if I was you. Seems that there are more and more issues due to EGR the higher the mileage.

It hurt engine longevity, performance and fuel economy, back in the 70's, and it seems that they've never figured out how to do it right. I guess that means it's the wrong thing to do, and my personal Rule Number One is that there's NO RIGHT WAY TO DO THE WRONG THING. (apologies to George Jones and his Friday night girlfriend who would "...work on doin' all the wrong things right...")

I just went through the exact same problem on my 06 CRD. had to replace the turbo, due to a lack of oil to the main bearing. This was because I had installed the EHM to avoid dumping the oil back into the intake, and rotting out my CAC hoses.
If you pull the airbox hose going from the airbox to the front of the turbo, you should be able to tell whether or not the bearing's bad.
If it is due to a lack of oil to the main bearing, and the oil level is fine on the dipstick, you need to check the oil lines going into the turbo. The other issue is that if the turbo has been starved for oil, and there's none going in, you're driving a ticking time bomb, due to the fact that the oil drain line from the turbo feeds the crankshaft. :scare2:


As far as finding an aftermarket replacement cheaper-DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I CANNOT STRESS THIS ENOUGH!!!

The tolerances on the Garrett VNT turbo are tight enough that if you check with Garrett themselves, they do NOT offer a rebuild kit on the turbo. All the cheaper "aftermarket" replacements are chinese knockoffs, and of the 6 or 7 people I've known that got one, EVERY SINGLE ONE FAILED. You have two options.

1. Replace with another factory turbo through IDparts.com
2. Contact GreenDieselEngineering and buy their aftermarket turbo. GDE is the ONLY manufacturer that makes an aftermarket turbo designed specifically for the CRD, and IIRC, it is NOT a VNT turbo, therefore needing their wiring kit to adapt it to work. Shoot me a PM if you have any more questions, I'll be more than happy to help out. I hate to see someone spend a LOT of money on the wrong parts on these things, as they are extremely finicky about what works and doesn't work on them.

GDE seems to be addressing all aspects of Jeep/CRD upgrade work. And theirs is a fixed-ratio turbo, rather than variable?
Oil goes thru the turbo's central bearing gallery before being delivered to the crankshaft? That sounds like a terrible thing to do, even if it does turn out to work. Why the hell not keep the crankshaft's oil supply independent, and just allow turbine bearing oil to drop right into the crankcase?

With GDE, I believe theirs is a fixed turbo...I could be wrong, but that's what I thought I remembered seeing. And as far as the crankshaft feeding from the turbo main bearing, I agree...its a horrible design. The VM 2.8 altogether is really a crappy design...quick question, when was the last time the timing belt was done on your daughters Libby, and how many miles ate on it now?

yeah def. want to get that timing belt done, and might as well do the water pump while your in there too. i did my timing belt and water pump at 76k due to early water pump failure, i did my egr delet 51k. i blocked the supply line feeding the egr valve and the EHM. knock on wood my libby hasnt had any engine problems since the water pump failed. i love the little diesel. i almost got rid of it before i bought my 24v cummins but just couldnt justify it. its too versatile. almost at 90k miles now.

Timing belt is still original. There's a little inspection port and it still looked OK. Got a little past 100K on it right now. truck's in Utah, and I'm in Texas. Hard to get firsthand information that way.

If it's at 100k, it NEEDS to be done...the timing belt is a ticking time bomb right now, and is waiting to go-and that's a bad thing...

he is def. right about that. on lostjeeps.com there are a lot of horror stories of belts failing and causing a laundry list of additional problems. better to get it done and dodge a bullet

Way back when, I saw that some company had a gear-drive contraption to replace the timing chain for some gas V8s (seems like for a smallblock Ford). Anybody do similar for these? I've just never been a fan of the whole timing-belt idea.

Haven't seen anything about it for these...and as big of an issue as the TB's are, someone over on lost would have come up with it or found it by now.

yes they would have. the guys on that forum are obsessed with everything about these motors. everything i have learned about my libby diesel has been from the lost forum.

Update!..... no update. ::nope: between tuition, rents, etc, etc, etc, the Libby's still parked for a while. maybe later this spring or summer we'll address its issues. T-belt, probable new turbo (I think OEM again, if the GDE is fixed-ratio.... I like the exhaust-braking action when I get off the go-pedal, and my kids do live in the mountains.)

I have an 06 liberty diesel that my wife drives is there an actual delete kit i can do for it? I have the GDE tuned on it cant remember which one i did but i would like to know if i can get a delete kit??

There's no actual delete kit...most people either run the GDE tune, which disables the EGR unless it's an emergency, or the SEGR, which was a custom made kit that completely disabled the EGR, but kept it from throwing a code. I forget who was making the SEGR kit, but they aren't making any more, so now you have to look for a used one.
There have been a few that "self-deleted" the egr, whether it was pulling the entire assembly off the side of the block, and rerouting the coolant hoses, and blocking off the exhaust and intake ports, but I think most have simply blocked off the intake and exhaust ports, and left everything else in place.

Thats mostly why i got there tune was cuz they said it shut down the egr but is there anyway to tell that it actually has? The reason i would like to do both is cuz my brothers truck was shut off but not deleted and then we ended up doin it and it made a big difference in the egts and his exhaust sounded way less restricted once it was blocked. What do yal think?:humm:

Update..... This time, there is an update. Kids have moved back to Texas (son and the infamous blue RhinoCharger in the Fort Worth area; daughter and the broken Jeep to San Antonio) Jeep's central turbo-shaft sheared :scare2: (WTH causes that on a system that doesn't exceed, like, what.... 25PSI, or maybe even less?) The guy told me that all the broken metal went down the exhaust, rather than forward, towards the intercooler. For simplicity, what would be entailed in a block-off of the EGR system? A piece of sheetmetal sandwiched between the exhaust pipe and the EGR tubing? Unless there's some really dreadful plumbing (I haven't looked and seen how it's made) it seems that would be the most direct approach, "check engine light" or not..... Next question: If we did that, would the computer be confused and angry, and then not allow the engine to run correctly? ------all three pieces of my Diesel knowledge are most applicable to a 12-valve P-pumped Cummins 6BT, and I pretty much don't know jack about a VM 2.8L.

Well, Libby Lives! :tu: The guys at Alamo Diesel seem to have done a good job, AND, were responsible-adult enough NOT to do the timing belt, since there's a couple of special tools that they didn't have (I presume a special-sized barring tool and maybe some specially-shaped cam/crank index locking pins). They gave me the phone number of another San Antonio shop that could, but, there's a vehicle-use trade going on between my daughter's household and ours. So, in a couple more days, when it's down here in Corpus Christi, I'll have that done locally. (after a paycheck cycle again, so as to recover from the repair hit, and a set of tires... they weren't bald; they were bawwwllld!) Was nice to hear it run right again. :jump: