Clutch pedal wont go in
 

Hi. Need help. Stuck on side of road. Clutch pedal wont go in. Just hapened

Started with hsrd to shift then when I pullef over and turn off the engine,
Now the clutch is so hard, cannot even start thereach the switch so I can start.

Thanks

Sounds like slave cylinder or someone close to that. Try posting in diesel in digress

Sent from my dumb phone!

Thanks, Sorry for the typos. Was using cell phone to post. So to recap. Pedal went soft then after turning off and then restarting.. It was so hard that I cannot start because I cannot engage the switch

Is the slave cylinder by the transmission bell housing area. Could I have a bent fork as well, busted clutch spring and any of those other scary and expensive scenarios. The problem sort of just happened and in fact the mechanic who reset the inertia switch (after the body shop guys messed with it) though that the clutch was strong. Not in distress anymore as I had to have it towed to my mechanic's driveway. as I do not have the setup nor the skill to open the bell housing. Talked to a Mercedes mechanic -wife's friends partner and he seems to think it inside the bell housing. But if you guys can throw me some ideas about what I could possibly repair it. It would be appreciated. Something I could do on the side of a quite street where my mechanic is at.

Im not to sure buddy I know more about older vehicles. Could be any of those said. I've never had a clutch go out on me so I don't know if its that but I've had em not engage but the clutch system wasn't hydraulic it was cable

Sent from my dumb phone!

check the push rod under the dash- between the pedal and the master cylinder.

Push rod... not sure if I inspected that right. I checked on the other side of the firewall. I can't see anything wrong except for the Rubber boot for sound proofing is a bit loose but I can jam it back.

The little hydraulic holder (left of and top of the fluid holder, with the rubber diaphragm of some sort. Where is the fluid suppose to be at. Because that is dry on the other side but wet on the other side i.e the tube has fluid in it. No leaks on the cyclinder or the lines going to the cylinder on the bell housing. Brake fluid is about 1/2-3/4 inch below the max line at room temperature and it is hot today, so I am going to fill that up.

The interesting thing is that the slave cylinder - actually this is suppose to be the master cylinder - I got i backwards as it goes to the transmission housing is loose. Is it suppose to be tight. Again no fluid spill so or anything.

Take a look at the sleeved clutch safety switch. It has tabs on either side that hold it to the clutch rod. Pop the top off and see if the springs or slider inside has jammed up.

You can also unbolt the slave from the bellhousing and get a look at that. See if the rod is jammed up or not. Can't remember how good of a look you can get from the slave cylinder hole, but you might be able to see if the throwout bearing has seized up or the pressure plate is broken.

I had a throw-out bearing give up and seize to the input shaft. If I remember correctly, I think I just lost the feel of pressure in the clutch (soft clutch). I decided to drive the 40 miles home rev matching the shifts ignoring my non-operational clutch as I though the hydraulics had just given up. If I had known it was the throwout bearing, I would have towed the truck since that bearing seized to the input shaft and scored the hell out of it. Ended up costing me a new ZF6, Flywheel, and Clutch....

the slave is kind of a twist lock deal in to the bell housing. but you probably won't be able to see much thru a 2 inch hole.

Oh yeah, that plastic slave does twist and lock in. Completely forgot and it was just last fall that I dropped the trans in my driveway to swap out the OEM clutch for something better.

what year is it? i know the early models had a crappy clutch fork that was known to break. this might have happened and things could be in a bind.