fuel leak help
ok so i replaced the orings in the yellow drain tool, but the little ball inside was missing? i dont remember seeing it inside when i took it apart. ive thought for a while that i was leaking oil and today i went to put a towel in the valley to soak it up and it smelt like only diesel, the back of the fuel bowl is also a little bit wet. is there something with that little ball inside the turn handle that seals? i cant see any leaks when i start it up, also fuel lines feel loose but dry.
need help ASAP |
on the passenger side head, the feed line runs to the back of the head. and it goes thru a small metal strap and is common to crack right there.
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Yep, fordornothing nailed it! I had a similar leak and traced it down to that fuel line comes out of the bottom of the bowl on the passenger side, runs along the head and a "holdown bracket" that Ford used caused a pin hoke in the steel line. New line was $58.00 at the dealership, unless you can weld! Did the yellow valve trick with the O-rings also, stopped that leak for sure. Then this one! Really was dumping fuel in the valleys!
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The rubber tube that comes off the bottom of the yellow water seperator drain valve is prone to seeping. Start the engine and use a flash light and watch to find out where the fuel is coming from. Should be only a slight leak being how low the pressure is at the filter housing.
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This has most of the fuel leak info you will ever need
as for the check ball in the valve, you dont need it. Email from Bob at Diesel O-Rings The reason for the check valve ball is to close off the stem opening if the valve is opened when the canister is still slightly pressurized. It is supposed to keep the fuel from puking out the top (which it does not anyway). With no pressure in the bowl, it serves no purpose as air enters into the top of the valve and then into the top hole of the valve keeping the bowl from getting a vacuum lock which would keep the fuel from draining out the bottom hole. |
if you are going to attemp to weld that line. TIG would be best. you'll blow thru it with stick and MIG would get to much penetration and would probably restrict flow to much. and you'd have to get a new line anyways. if you need to replace the line. remove the check valve/ screen on the end of the line. make sure it is clear.
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Brazing with silver brazing rods is the easiest way I have found. I just had to do the same with the truck that belongs to my boss.
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That too. I didn't even thing about brazing it.
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fuel leak in steel line
I had the exact problem with the steel line on the passenger side of the engine. Just like this video shows. Perfect fix for me was a new line($58.00) because I do not have the capability of brazing! I did beef up the protection of the line on the bracket though! Ford does not have sufficient rubber here to protect this line, wears right thru. Only a small pion hole leak, but major fuel in the valleys and on the ground! All good now. Somewhere in my library I have a snap shot of this steel line, but this video is the bomb!!:tu:
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