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-   -   last straw with 2000 350 (https://www.dieselbombers.com/ford-powerstroke-99-03-7-3l/57557-last-straw-2000-350-a.html)

dirty balz 08-27-2010 02:35 PM

last straw with 2000 350
 
so i thaught i got my truck running good, new injectors, new starter, new altenator truck was charging and holding charge just fine, have rain storms for 3 days and now my truck is dead and will not hold a charge... does anyone have autoenginuity in north jersey? im about to flip out on this truck

CSIPSD 08-27-2010 02:39 PM

Check your fuses... There is a fuse under the hood on the 99-2001 trucks that can cause a no charge issue...

dirty balz 08-27-2010 03:34 PM

i checked them and they are all fine... do you think i should replace anyway? and what about the gem module? would that do anything to it? or i remember hearing something about an alt. exciter switch ?

PHPDiesel 08-27-2010 05:16 PM

AE will not diagnose a parasitic draw.

CSIPSD 08-27-2010 05:18 PM

It will show if the alt is charging or not...

That was my next question, is the alt putting out 14v?

PHPDiesel 08-27-2010 08:02 PM

So will a volt meter......:tttt:

CSIPSD 08-27-2010 09:16 PM


Originally Posted by PHPDiesel (Post 612314)
So will a volt meter......:tttt:


:moon:

but you dont sell volt meters... you sell AE...:w2:

scott52575 08-28-2010 11:01 AM

OK I'm an electrician and an student EE do this get a clamp on voltmeter/amprobe capable of reading DC and AC current might come in handy later...now with the truck off you need to put your amprobe on the red cable coming off the second battery heading towards the starter starter on the passenger side of the engine ...a decent amprobe will read down to one amp of current ...I think the leakage current on a PSD is less than one amp any more and leaving the truck sit a few days and you will have a no start issue ...
Now you have new injctors is your truck running good ? good fuel mileage guess what yoru electrical problems are the least of your worries your home free the key is not getting a penis in your but from a shady tech someplace generally an automotive electrical shop is best ...

AE will tell you fuck all about what the charging system is doing...

Also use the voltmeter part of the amprobe to make sure you have 14 volts or more on the batteries while the motor is running it means the alternator is working and charging the batteries...


Dude my truck is gutless and gets 10-mpg right now and needs new injectors ...and an HPOP your home free with that problem fuck I wish I had problems like yours!

dirty balz 08-28-2010 04:07 PM

that will help me check to see if it is draining the batteries... i know they are draining i just dont know from where. next thing iam doing is getting the windshield re-sealed and see if i still have the problem.

scott52575 08-28-2010 05:19 PM

I have the electrical schematic for all the powerstrokes if u want it PDF file

dirty balz 08-28-2010 08:57 PM

yea that would be great i will pm you my email

PHPDiesel 08-29-2010 07:41 AM


Originally Posted by scott52575 (Post 612534)
OK I'm an electrician and an student EE do this get a clamp on voltmeter/amprobe capable of reading DC and AC current might come in handy later...now with the truck off you need to put your amprobe on the red cable coming off the second battery heading towards the starter starter on the passenger side of the engine ...a decent amprobe will read down to one amp of current ...I think the leakage current on a PSD is less than one amp any more and leaving the truck sit a few days and you will have a no start issue ...

"A decent amprobe will read down to one amp of current."

With parasitic draws, you are looking at anything over 50mA (that's milliamps so .050 amps). These trucks SHOULD be in the <20mA range and no more once the key is off and the internal modules shut down. If the draw is 99mA, then that's too much and your one-amp clamp is useless because it will show that nothing is wrong.

The ONLY way to accurately check the parasitic draw is to disconnect both negative battery cables and connect an actual DVOM that is capable of measuring current between one of the negative battery cables and the corresponding negative battery post. Disconnect both negative battery cables. Make sure the ignition switch is off and all loads are off (headlights, cigarette lighter accessories, etc.) Use a piece of wire (16 ga. or so) to connect one of the battery's negative terminal and the corresponding cable end. This will allow the few amps of initial "wake up" current to flow before hooking up the meter. If you hook the meter up on the mA scale before taking care of the initial connection, it will likely blow the fuse inside the meter. Now, set the meter to the mA scale and connect the probe wires between the battery terminal and the cable end where your larger wire is located. Disconnect the wire you installed first, and watch the meter.

scott52575 08-29-2010 12:34 PM

lol fair enough but with two 1000 CCA batteries even a 1 amp draw will take a very long time to kill the battery..a few days at least

I was trying to help him on the cheap ...a good meter is 200.00 :)

dirty balz 08-30-2010 03:24 PM

well i called a friend of a friend who used to be a diesel mechanic at ford, as soon as i told him what was happening and the leaking windshield he instantly told me to pull fuse box in cab, if there is corrosion or water that is what is killing my truck.... came home from work did that and badda bing it was the mother fudging fuse box :argh: new box is 218 from ford... just in case if anyone ever has this problem that is what i would look at first, thanks for the help fellas

scott52575 08-30-2010 04:12 PM

wow many sorry :( the drunk on the line that day forgot to put a good bead of sealant on the windshield before install believe me I'm a union guy and most UAW are raving drunks or pill heads ....

dirty balz 08-31-2010 02:39 PM

lol no body is perfect


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