2001 ford f250 7.3L 280,000 miles won't start please help
 

Truck died while driving it had been running good up to the time it died. It will not restart with the exception of (I know it's bad)but it will fire with a small shot of starting fluid but dies after about 3 seconds. I have replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter, ICP, HPOP, CMP, CPS, changed the oil, dropped the fuel tank and checked the pick up screen, checked return fuel line no clogs, checked fuses, hooked to 3 different obdII scanners no codes. I put 100 lbs air pressure in ICP port in head held pressure could not hear any leaks. took the IPR apart and cleaned it. Does anyone have any ideas of what I'm missing here. Not only do we need our truck to run but this has become a mission to find out what's wrong getting very frustrated. :scare2:

What is your actual icp pressure when cranking? Does your WTS light come on?

Haven't checked ICP pressure yet because I don't have a fitting that I need for my gauge should have that tomorrow and yes the wts light does come on.

Should be able to check it with the scan tool.

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Have you check to see if theres oil in front cover.

I hadn't thought about the scanner to check that I will see if the scanners I have can do that tomorrow. do you know what the pressure should be.

500psi to start I've seen them start with a little less but not much.

Ok thank you that's what I thought it was suppost to be I will post on here when I get that tested.

icp pressure was 200 psi

Ipr could be stuck or high pressure oil pump is bad.

the ipr was bad replaced and runs great once again thanks for the help

No problem bud glad I could help.

2000 F350 7.3L died wont start
 

I'm a new member so, not sure if this is the way to get help trouble shooting or not. I'm trying it, anyway. Please direct me.
My 7.3L, 280k miles, died while driving and hasn't hit/fired since. Batteries are strong and cranks great. No smoke on cranking. No service engine soon light, other than normal "on" momentarily at ign on. No codes with AutoZone scanner, which I have read will not read my codes, anyway. I have all normal ignition on dash lights; wait to start works. What I have done; Replaced cam sensor. Drained, inspected fuel bowl and heater-good. Replaced fuel filter. Bowl fills with ign "on". Unplugged fuel heater. No start. Checked all fuses, visually, cab and engine boxes. Checked all fuses and relays for PCM and IDM with meter. Unplugged ICP - wait to start light did not work and motor did not start. ICP is oily and wet. Should I replace it and try again or did my test with it unplugged eliminate it as a fault? Service engine soon light stays on with ICP unplugged, and IDM relay out. I used test light across fuse terminals to verify complete circuits on PCM 20A fuse (#19&24 on mine)- have hot side to ground power, have no complete circuit between terminals with power "off" and DO have test light power with switch "on". Tested ohms on PCM diode = good. Relays click with diode installed, do not with it out. Switched relays around, no start, no smoke. Unplugged ebps, no start. Crankcase oil is full. Hpop oil is within 1" of top of plug. The IPR tin nut is secure HOWEVER, the connector body wiggles on the IPR. The connector is tight but the body of the IPR portion of the connection is not secure to the body of the IPR. Any chance that is my issue? I have read on other threads that it is not possible for the motor to start with it unplugged so, how else could I test it? The harness connections to the UVCH appear secure, on the outside of the valve covers. Checked the ground wire on the cowl in engine compartment (firewall to me) up high, near the hood seal. Also, I have a program (chip) installed at low or moderate setting (this truck is not a high performance rig, just a work truck). Should I clear program? I get some action on tach when cranking. I hate the "replace a part and try it" method but, I do not have access to a sophisticated scanner so, I am stuck with that method or dropping the big $ and towing it to the shop. The biggest problem I have with that is that I do not trust the dealer service to find and repair ONLY what is necessary. I have a multi-meter and can perform some elementary things with it but, anything beyond that requires detailed instructions. Also, I do not have a pressure gauge to test HPOP pressure or pressure at filter bowl. Please help. I need this truck for a small business that I own and a few days of down-time causes me a LOT of stress and anxiety, when it needs to be working for me to operate my business.

With out a scan tool to check injection pressure it's kind of a guessing game. I would unload the programer first. Change the oil if it's been awhile. I would bet it's a high pressure oil problem either ipr or the pump.

Thanks for the reply. The oil wash changed just under 1000 miles back. I have unloaded the programer. Just for fun, I tried to start it. No start. No service engine soon light. I have to work a 24 hour shift, tomorrow, so I will prbly have it towed to the dealership :dang::dang: . Most of the time, I can figure out how to repair my own break downs. This one, I just don't have the time to continue fiddling with. I have to get it back on the road and earning it's living. I'll post back when I have more info and am back on the go..

I had to send it to the dealer to finish trouble shooting/repair. It was the IDM. I haven't seen any threads on any site where the IDM was actually the problem. So, just to complete this thread with the end result, I thought I should post it. Now, I just have the choice of believing the dealership that it really was the IDM or wondering if it was something much less expensive and they know the IDM generates a lot more revenue for the Service Department. Of course, the dealership scalded me on the price of the IDM and installation. I expect that from the dealer. I had not completed a couple of recalls on the truck so, while it was down, I figured the dealer just as well diagnose and repair my no-start issue and could complete my recalls at the same time. Time is money. I couldn't wait any longer to get it back on the road so, I paid around $800 more than I could have done it myself, with an IDM on-line. Yeah, it totaled $1500, before tax, for parts and labor.....:s:

Glad you got it going. I actually had one this week same just died while driving around the same milage and the idm was the problem. The stealership made a killing. IDM was $200 on eBay (custom bought) and I charged $50 to change it. All of about 45 mins to diagnose and change.

WOW!! I knew they were hitting me really hard, when they told me the IDM was $900.00 plus tax and labor. I knew I could get one on-line for a lot less. I had no idea I could get one for under about $600.00. That really makes me feel ill.... Thanks for the reply.... (i think....?) :s: